LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. 



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UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 



Life in California 



RESIDENCE OF SEVERAL YEARS IN THAT 
TERRITORY. 

COMPRISING A 

Description of the Country and the Missionary 

Establishments, with Incidents, 

Observations, etc. 



/ 



BY ALFRED ROBINSON. 



With an Appendix ; bringing forward the Narrative 

prom 1846, to the occupation of the country 

BY THE United States. 




SAN FRANCISCO: 

WILLIAM DOXEY, PUBLISHER. 

1891. 



Copyright, 1891. 



TO 

WILLIAM STURGIS, ESQ., 

OF BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS, 

ONE OF THE EARLY ADVENTURERS TO THE 
WEST COAST OF AMERICA, 

THIS VOLUME 

« 

IS RESPECTFULLY INSCRIBED BY 
THE AUTHOR. 



INTRODUCTION 



IN venturing to submit the following work to 
public notice, the writer would respectfully state, 
that it was originally intended as an introduction 
only, to his translation of Father Boscana's " His- 
torical Account of the Indians of California ; " but 
owing to the increasing interest manifested for the 
fate of that fair portion of the North American Con- 
tinent, he has been induced to extend his first 
views, that he might lay before the reader a simple 
statement, respecting the country, and its political 
progress, from the time when Mexico became free 
from Spanish dominion. It has been his object to 
confine himself, as much as possible, to those events 
which came under his own personal observation, 
and, though possessing but few notes to which he 
could refer, he has endeavored to connect the his- 
torical with the political incidents, so that their 
dates may be depended upon. 

Alta California is called a Territory, and is under 
the control of the general government of Mexico, 
which appoints its Governor and subordinate ofii- 



6 INTRODUCTION. 

cers. It extends along the border of the great 
Pacific, which bounds it on the west. On the east, 
it is bounded by a range of the Cordilleras and the 
Indian territor}^ The northern limit is to the 
forty-second degree of north latitude, and the south- 
ern boundary extends to the Presidio of St Diego, 
or a little further south. 

The writer has gleaned the early history from a 
celebrated work of Padre Miguel Vanegas, who 
says, "The country of which we are to treat, is 
'' known on the maps under three distinct names : 
"first, ^California,' — second, 'New Albion* — third, 
" * Islas Carolinas.' That of California is the most 
" ancient, for we find it in the work of Bernal Diaz 
"del Castillo, a soldier of Hernan Cortez; his com- 
"panion in the conquest of Mexico, and afterwards 
"his historian." The name of New Albion was 
given by Sir Francis Drake in 1577, on his second 
voyage round the world. The name of Islas Caro- 
linas was given a hundred years afterwards in honor 
of Ki7ig Charles the Second of Spain, when he pro- 
jected the conquest of California, which at that time 
was supposed to be an island. 

It is thought by some writers, that the name 
" California," was given by the Spaniards, in con- 
sequence of the uncommon heat which they ex- 
perienced, on their first visit, and was derived from 
the two Latin words calida and fornax. Father 



INTRODUCTION. 7 

Vanegas thinks differently; he says, ''The name 
" originated accidentally, from a wrong pronuncia- 
" tion, as might have occurred in the sounding of 
" any Indian expression, badly understood by the 
" Spaniards." 

The whole of Upper California was left entirely to 
the control of the Franciscan Friars; while the 
Dominicans were entrusted with the lower province. 
From 1769 until 1776, no less than nineteen Mis- 
sions were founded — another in 1817, and one more 
in 1823, which are all that have ever been estab- 
lished. These were the germs of Spanish coloniza- 
tion, which were advanced under the protection of 
four Presidios, or military fortresses; viz., St. Diego, 
Santa Barbara, Monterey, and St. Francisco ; from 
whence troops could be marched at any moment, if 
requisite. The prosperity of these Missions was 
great until the year 1824, since which they have 
gradually depreciated, and are now almost entirely 
destroyed. 

The shore in some places is lessened by the near 
approach of a range of mountains toward the sea ; 
but there are spacious openings, which are capable 
of great improvement. In these openings, or val- 
leys, the missions are located, and are so distanced 
as to be of great convenience to the traveller. 

In the many revulsions suffered by Mexico from 
political struggles, California has had her share of 



8 INTRODUCTION. 

domestic disturbances; and for years past it has 
been the scene of numerous conflicts. The natives 
possess an inveterate dislike towards the Mexicans, 
which has given rise to sundry revolutions in their 
government. The time is not far distant when 
they will cease from such broils, and either become 
consolidated into an independent form of govern- 
ment, or be the subjects of foreign administration. 
Immigration will aid the former, while the attrac- 
tions of its magnificent and giant harbor of St. 
Francisco may, in a very few years, effect the 
latter. 



CONTENTS 



CHAPTER I. 

First Attempt of the Spaniards to Colonize Alta California.— 
Their Departure from Acapulco.— Their Return to New 
Spain. — Second Departure for California. — Their Arrival at 
St. Diego.— Founding of their First Mission. — Success of 
their Labors.— Departure of the "Writer from Boston.— Inci- 
dents on the Voyage.— Arrival at Valparaiso.— Departure 
for California. — St. Felix and St. Ambrose. — Arrival at 
Monterey, 15-23 

CHAPTER II. 

Monterey as seen from the Ship. — A Visit to the Comman- 
dante. — Reception. — Unexpected Restrictions upon Com- 
merce. — Preparations for a Departure. — Description of 
Monterey.— Departure for St. Diego. — Dangerous Naviga- 
tion in the Bay. — Arrival at St. Diego. — A Visit to the 
Presidio.— Description of the same.— General Echeandia.— 
Climate. — An Entertainment on Board. — Vessels in Port. — 
Matrimonial Adventure, 24-34 

CHAPTER III. 

Journey to St. Pedro, and Departure of the Ship.— Don Manuel 
and his "Sancho Panza." — Arrival at St. Diegito.— St. Luis 
Rey.— Padre Antonio Peyri. — Description of the Mis- 
sion.— Ranclio de las Flores. — Mission of St. Juan. — Mayor- 



10 CONTENTS. 

domo. — " Cuatro Ojos." — Rancho de Santa Ana.— Don Tomas 
Yorba.— St. Gabriel.— Padre Jos6 Sanchez.— Mass.— Gam- 
bling. — A Yankee. — Mission of St. Fernando. — Padre 
Ybarra.— Pueblo de los Angeles.— St. Pedro.— Incidents of 
Trading, , 35-51 

CHAPTER IV. 

Departure for Santa Barbara.— Arrival.— The Presidio.— Land- 
ing through the Surf. — Friend Daniel.— A Ride on Mule- 
back. — Visit to Doiia Maria Antonia. — House of Friend Dan- 
iel. — Mission of Santa Barbara. — Female Costume. — Mis- 
sions of St. Ynes and Purissima. — Rancho del Refugio.— 
St. Buenaventura.— Return to St. Diego.— House Blessing. 
—Fandango, 52-65 

CHAPTER V. 

Departure for San Francisco. — Farallones Islands. — Yerba 
Buena. — Comandante.— The Presidio. — Journey to Santa 
Clara.— Mission of Dolores.— Rancho de las Pulgas.— Mission 
of Santa Clara.— San Francisco.— Departure for Monterey 
and Santa Barbara.— Journey to San Pedro. — Ride by Moon- 
light.— Tiburcio Tapia, 66-75 

CHAPTER VI. 

Residence in St. Diego. — Practice of Medicine. — Evening's 
Amusements.— Pastores. — La Noche Buena. — Insurrection 
in the North. — Departure of Echeandia and his Troops, — 
Defeat of the Rebels.—" Hide Park."— Hide Stealing.— Em- 
barkation.— Pueblo de San Jose.— Its Inhabitants. — Mission 
de San Jos6. — Padre Narciso Duran. — Perilous Adventure 
in a Boat. — Sailing out of San Francisco. — Journey from 
Monterey to Santa Barbara. — Buena Vista. —La Soledad.— 
San Antonio. — San Miguel. — Hot Springs.— Santa Marga- 



CONTENTS. 11 

rita.— St. Luis Obispo.— Guadaloupe.—Matanzas.— A Chance 
Shot. — Landing Cargo at Santa Barbara. — New Residence 
on Shore, 76-101 

CHAPTER VII. 

Mass at Santa Barbara.— Yankee Ingenuity. — Riding in Cali- 
fornia. — An Indian Game.— Temescal.— Secularization of the 
Missions.— A New General for California.— Fire on the 
Mountains. — Execution of two Indians.— Sulphurous Spring. 
— A Launch. — A New Companion.— Choyas. — A Bear and 
Bull Bait.— Padre Luis and his Comical English.— David 
Douglass, Esq. — St. Juan Bautista. — Padre Arroyo. — A 
Night with the Fleas. —A Californian Farm-House. — A 
Priest's Travelling Carriage.— An Indian Festival, . 102-126 

CHAPTER VIII. 

Interesting News. — Another Revolution. — Arrival of Gen. 
Victoria with Troops. — Defeat of Victoria. — His Expul- 
sion. — A new Government. — Pio Pico Governor. — Arrival 
of the banished Priests. — Opposition of the North to 
the South,— State of Santa Barbara.— A Good Joke.— Ruin- 
ous Condition of the Indians.— Sail ho! . . . 127-137 

CHAPTER IX. 

Another Cruise.— A "Ranchero's" Perplexity.— Pudding Sauce, 
not Soup. — A Backwoodsman. — Heavy Rains.— Marriage 
Ceremony. — Fiesta de Boda. — Carnestolendas. — Battle with 
Eggs. — Padre Antonio and Friar Menendez. — A Severe Gale. 
— Dangerous Passage into San Francisco.— Safe Arrival. — 
General Jose Figueroa. — " Administrador " of the Customs, 
alias "El Pintito."— Patriotism !—" Hanging On."— Nar- 
row Escape from Shipwreck. — A Departure for Boston. — A 
Visit to the Farallones.— Seal Fishery.— Roadstead of St, 



12 CONTENTS. 

Juan.— Seizure at San Francisco.— Drought.— Procession for 
Rain, 138-158 

CHAPTER X. 

Dividing of the Missions.— Sporting at Santa Barbara. — Arrival 
of the Ship " California."— Accident to Gale. — Supposed 
Revolutionary Designs. — Rumors.— Determination of the 
Priests. — Destruction of the Missions.— A new Appoint- 
ment. — Arrival of the Colonists. — Seilor Hijar.— Plan of the 
Colonists. — Appointment of *^ Administradores ^^ to the 
Missions. — Death of Figueroa. — Proceedings of the " Excel- 
entisima Diputaciony — Burial of Figueroa at Santa Bar- 
bara.— A new Governor. — His Disgrace. — Nicolas Gutierrez. 
—Disturbance at Monterey.— Juan B. Alvarado.— A Bold 
Tennesseean.— Surrender of the Mexicans. — Declaration of 
Independence.— Its Consequences in Mexico, . . 159-184 

CHAPTER XI. 

Echeandia's Policy.— Don Carlos Carrillo appointed Governor.— 
War against his Nephew.— Is defeated.— Singular Approval of 
the Mexican Government.— Central Government.— Alvarado's 
wounded Dignity. — His Disgust for the Foreigners. — False 
Charges of Rebellion. — Seizure and Imprisonment of the For- 
eigners. — Their Banishment to Mexico. — Proclamation of 
Alvarado.— Arrival of an American and a French Sloop of 
War. — Consternation of Alvarado. — Satisfaction given to the 
Captain of the St. Louis.— Desertion of St. Diego. — Conse- 
quences of Secularization.— A Ride to the Pueblo.— Return of 
the Foreigners.— Mines.— Anglo-Californian Justice. — Tem- 
hlores.— Rodeo.— ^Q-di Incident.— Important News. — Arrival of 
a Bishop.— His Reception.— Arrival of Sir George Simpson 
and Governor McLaughlin, 185-205 



CONTENTS. 13 

CHAPTER XII. 

A Merienda. — A. Trip into the Interior.— Rancho de San 
Juan del Rio— Arrival of Micheltorena.— His Reception at 
St. Diego— Mexican Soldiery !— A Bull-fight.— War with the 
United States. — Capture of Monterey by the American 
Squadron under Commodore Jones.— Micheltorena's Flight. 
—His Subsequent Return and Establishment at Monterey.- 
Another Revolution.— A Battle.— Defeat of Micheltorena.— 
Expulsion of the Mexicans.— A New Governor, . 206-220 

Conclusion, 221-232 

Appendix, 233-261 

Reminiscences of 1829 262-284 



Life in California. 



CHAPTER I. 

First Attempt of the Spaniards to Colonize Alta California.— 
Their Departure from Acapulco.— Their Return to New 
Spain.— Second Departure for California.— Their Arrival at 
St. Diego.— Founding of their First Mission.- Success of 
their Labors.— Departure of the Writer from Boston.— 
Incidents on the Voyage.— Arrival at Valparaiso. — Depart- 
ure for California.— St. Felix and St. Ambrose.— Arrival at 
Monterey. 

NUMEROUS attempts were made during the 
reign of Philip the Second of Spain to colo- 
nize the Peninsula of California; but it was not 
until the reign of his son and successor, " Philip the 
Third," that the efforts of the Spaniards met with 
any success. This sovereign, instigated by the same 
political policy as his father, in the year 1599, de- 
spatched orders to the Count de Monte Rey, then 
commander of the Colony of New Spain, directing 
him at the expense of the treasury, regardless of 
the cost of the enterprise, to use all possible dili- 
gence in making new discoveries, and, above all, fur- 
ther entrance into Alta California. Accordingly, 
the Viceroy, after much deliberation, to ensure the 
success of a project that excited so much enthusiasm, 



16 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

and caused so many calamities during the previous 
century, appointed as Captain General of the pro- 
posed expedition, " Don Sebastian Viscaino," who 
had once before commanded on a similar voyage, and 
who, on this occasion, seemed indefatigable in his 
endeavors to forward the interests of the enterprise. 

Everything being ready on the 5th of May, 1602, 
the General made sail from the port of Acapulco. 
His fleet consisted of two ships and a frigate, to- 
gether with a small vessel with one mast, and draw- 
ing but little water, to be used on occasions when 
the larger vessels would have been impracticable. 
He was accompanied by three religious Carmelites ; 
one of whom, Friar Antonio de la Ascension, wrote 
a long account of the voyage, whereby it appears 
that Viscaino made actual survey of the coast, up 
to the latitude of Capes Mendocino and Blanco. 
They visited a large port near the "Punta de Pinos,^^ 
which, in honor of the Vicero}^, they named " Mon- 
terey." St. Diego was also explored, and another 
port in the neighborhood, which undoubtedly was 
St. Pedro. 

Their hardships, infirmities, and dangers were so 
great, that to maintain themselves long on the coast 
was impossible ; and, in consequence, they returned 
to New Spain, after an absence of nearly eleven 
months, and anchored in Acapulco, in the latter 
part of March, 1603. 

From this time, no particular attention was called 
to the acquisition and occupancy of Alta California, 
until the expulsion of the Jesuits, in 1768 ; when 
Padre Junipero Serra, of the order of St. Francisco, 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 17 

was appointed presiding missionary of the Cali- 
fornias. On the 12th of March, 1769, he embarked 
for Loreto, in company with sixteen others of the 
same College. They arrived in safety, and imme- 
diately commenced operations for a northern enter- 
prise; cattle were driven across the mountains, 
and a naval and land expedition departed at differ- 
ent periods, for the purpose of uniting at St. Diego, 
to co-operate in the spiritual conquest. The latter, 
under the command of the Governor, Don Gaspar 
Portala, and Padre Junipero, arrived on the first of 
July, 1769, and found the ships at anchor, which 
had arrived nearly two months before them. Mu- 
tual congratulations passed between the officers; 
surveys were commenced ; the country was explored ; 
and here, in this wild, uncultivated spot, they 
erected their first Mission, and named it, in honor 
of the patron saint of Spain, " St. Diego." 

It was not until the succeeding year that San 
Carlos was founded at Monterey ; and in 1771, when 
other reverend Padres arrived from St. Bias, they 
established the Missions of St. Antonio and St. 
Gabriel. Thus, by occasional succor from the Vice- 
roy of Mexico, the holy enterprise prospered ; new 
Missions were founded, and the missionaries beheld 
with rapture the success and triumph of the Cross. 

More than half a century had passed by. Father 
Junipero was no more, and the few faithful com- 
panions of his pilgrimage to this distant land had, 
like him, found rest from their labors in the tomb; 
others had filled their places ; and notwithstanding 
that the subversion of Spanish dominion in Mexico, 



18 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

and subsequent change to a republican form of gov- 
ernment, had somewhat lessened their zeal; yet the 
neophyte was protected, conquests increased, and 
the abundance of the warehouses and granaries con- 
tinued to be distributed with the same fostering 
liberality. 

At this period the writer embarked at Boston on 
a voyage to the North-west coast of America. It 
was on a beautiful morning in July, 1828, and our 
noble craft* slipped quietly down the bay with a 
light wind from the south-west. The breeze soon 
freshened, and the sight of the friends who had 
accompanied us to the wharf, the buildings, the 
steeples, and the neighboring hills, all gradually 
grew fainter and fainter, " till like a dream they 
passed away." 

The pilot left us — and at sunset I stood gazing on 
the dim outline of our native land, which, like a 
cloud, appeared slowly fading in the west, till 
naught remained to gaze upon but the distant 
horizon. Night passed, and morning came; and 
with it all the routine of a sailor's life, such as 
usually accompanies the first few days of a long 
voyage; clearing decks, stowing cables, securing 
spars, &c., and then followed, day after day, the 
same monotonous and tedious scenes, with nothing 
to relieve them from their w^earisomeness, or inci- 
dent worthy of consideration, till three long months 
had expired, when we opened upon the Pacific — the 
great South Sea. 

Our ship glides on, and as the mighty wave comes 

*Ship Brookline, Captain James 0. Locke. 



LIFE IX CALIFORNIA. 19 

slowly rolling from the west, she, with equal sub- 
limity, rises to the element and then sinks majesti- 
cally into its course below, as if in courteous 
recognition of its approach. Wave after wave rolls 
on, wave after wave is left behind, and thus she 
pursues unchangingly her destined course. But 
the scene changes. Thick clouds appear in the 
horizon, wdiose quick advance and fearful aspect 
betoken the coming storm ! the ship is prepared to 
meet its fury — sail after sail is taken in, till from a 
top-gallant studding sail, and running before the 
w^ind, she is lying to, reduced to a close-reefed main- 
topsail, and mizzen staysail. The storm at length 
comes — cloud after cloud adds new fury to its 
blasts — the sea rises, and in its way would seem to 
engulf all before it — one vast surge comes aboard 
with heavy crash, and sweeps the deck of boats and 
spars, the bulwarks, and all that meets its course. 
The climate changes also ; and cold, snow^ and hail 
are added to the terrors that surround us. At 
length, however, the storm abates; sail is made, 
and we are again in apparent security ; but soon it 
returns wdth redoubled fury ; and the ship is again 
lying like a log upon the ocean. Thus we proceed, 
gale succeeding gale ! one storm only ceasing, to 
give place to another — our good ship making but 
little progress, until, at last, enabled to take a north- 
erly course, and the w^nd proving favorable, we 
rapidly leave these tempestuous latitudes. A few 
days of prosperous gales bring us to anchor in the 
pleasant bay of Valparaiso. 

A protracted passage of 110 days made it neces- 



20 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

sary for us to put in here to replenish our water, 
and after three days' detention we again made sail 
for the port of Monterey. Three days out, we came 
in sight of the Islands of St. Felix and St. Ambrose. 
When about three miles distant from the latter, the 
mate with a few men started off in one of the boats 
on a fishing excursion, and returned after a few 
hours' absence with plenty of fish of different kinds. 
We next proceeded to St. Felix, which bore N.N.W. 
of us, distant about fifteen miles, and hove to, be- 
tween the island and sail rock, so called from its 
singular resemblance to a sail when seen from a dis- 
tance. This island is much larger than that of St. 
Ambrose, and easier of access, though equally barren 
and destitute of vegetation. We found here the 
ruins of a house which had probably been erected 
by some sealing-party, for we saw great numbers of 
seals lying about among the rocks, and killed several 
ourselves. Sea-birds were abundant — fish, also, of 
which we caught many, and returned on board to 
pursue our voyage. 

From this time no particular occurrence took 
place until we came in sight of land ; and then the 
weather was such that several days intervened ere 
we could learn our true position ; at length, on the 
afternoon of the 15th February, 1829, the fog cleared 
up and we beheld the '' Punta de Pinos " bearing 
east, distant ten or twelve miles. This was the outer 
southern point of the bay of Monterey, into which 
we were soon slowly gliding. The breeze now died 
away, night closed around us, and as we approached 
our place of anchorage, naught was heard but the 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 21 

occasional cry of the leadsman in the chains, or the 
dip of the oars as the boatmen towed us slowly into 
port. Suddenly a flash was seen from the castle, 
the report followed, and a ball came whizzing across 
our bow, so near the boat as to throw upon the men 
the spray, as it glanced over the waters. " Let go 
the anchor," cried the captain. " Aye, aye, sir," 
answered the mate, and then followed immediately 
the splash and the running out of chain cable, until 
the heavy iron instrument had found its resting- 
place in the sand. 

A few minutes elapsed when a boat came off from 
the shore containing an officer of the customs and 
his assistant ; sent by the commandant of the '' Pre- 
sidio." They appeared much pleased when informed 
that we wished to trade on the coast, and particu- 
larly so, when made acquainted with the nature 
and amount of the ship's cargo. The conversation 
soon became general, and the more intelligent of 
the two (Don Manuel Jimeno) gave us an account 
of the country, its government, missions, and its 
political condition at that time. He spoke also of 
the affair of the ship Franklin of Boston, which had 
a short time previous been detained by the authori- 
ties on suspicion of being engaged in contraband 
trade, causing much excitement throughout the 
country, and consequent restrictions on commerce. 
Her flight from the port of St. Diego was thought 
miraculous, running the gauntlet of a heavy battery 
within pistol shot of the cannon's mouth, and yet 
escaping without injury. On she sailed, leaving 
her enemies in the distance, little heeding their 



99 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 



guns, till, once more rolling to the swell of the 
mighty ocean, she approached Point Loma, when a 
light cloud was seen to emerge from her side, and 
the report of her cannon came reverberating among 
the hills, as if in derision of a government of such 
weakness and pusillanimity. 

The local government, exasperated by this open 
defiance of their authority, sought by more stringent 
regulations of trade to prevent in future any fraud 
upon the revenue ; and conscious of its weakness at 
most of the ports along the coast, laid an embargo 
upon all, with the exception of the more strongly 
fortified places of Monterey and St. Diego, at which 
ports only, foreign vessels were allowed to enter and 
discharge their cargoes. 

The officers bade ns '' buenas noches,'' said left us 
for the shore, leaving us to ruminate upon the 
events which had passed, and those likely to ensue, 
with many forebodings of the trials and disappoint- 
ments which from the recent change in the revenue 
laws we were probably to encounter. What were 
we to do? With the exception of Monterey and 
St. Diego, all the ports were closed, and we were pro- 
hibited from discharging at any other. This restric- 
tion, if insisted upon, would overturn all our 
calculations, and in fact ensure a total failure of the 
voyage. 

Our supercargo, William A. Gale, was much per- 
plexed in consequence, and resolved to write to the 
Governor at St. Diego, setting forth the fact of our 
having fitted out from the United States with the 
supposition that no change would be made in the 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 23 

regulation of commerce ; that the recent alteration 
had not given sufficient time for the news to have 
reached us prior to our departure from home, and 
that consequently, he should take into considera- 
tion the embarrassment of our situation and repeal 
in some way the restrictions of the new law. 



24 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 



CHAPTER 11. 

Monterey as seen from the Ship. — A Visit to the Coniman- 
dante. — Reception. — Unexpected Restrictions upon Com- 
merce. — Preparations for a Departure. — Description of 
Monterey.— Departure for St. Diego. — Dangerous Naviga- 
tion in the Bay. — Arrival at St. Diego. — A A^isit to the 
Presidio.— Description of the same. — General Echeandia.— 
Climate. — An Entertainment on Board. — Vessels in Port. — 
Matrimonial Adventure. 

THE next day, when I was to look for the first 
time upon those shores which were to become 
for some years my home, was necessarily one of 
great excitement, and I hurried on deck much ear- 
lier than my usual hour. Before us lay stretched 
out the shore, and as it curved away toward the north- 
ern extremity of the bay, the swell of the ocean, 
wave after wave, echoed loud and heavily upon its 
sands. The sun had just risen, .and glittering 
through the lofty pines that crowned the summit of 
the eastern hills, threw its light upon the lawn be- 
neath. On our left w^as the " Presidio," with its 
chapel dome, and towering flag-staff in conspicu- 
ous elevation. On the right, upon a rising ground, 
was seen the " Castillo " or fort, surmounted by 
some ten or a dozen cannons. The intervening 
space between these two points was enlivened by the 
hundred scattered dwellings that form the town ; 
and here and there groups of cattle grazing. 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 25 

After breakfast, G. and myself went on shore on 
a visit to the Commandant, Don Mariano Estrada, 
whose residence stood in the central part of the town, 
in the usual route from the beach to the Presidio. 
Its external appearance, notwithstanding it was 
built of adobe or brick, made by the mixture of soft 
mud and straw, modelled and dried in the sun, was 
not displeasing ; for the outer walls had been plas- 
tered and whitewashed, giving it a cheerful and in- 
viting aspect. Like all dwellings built in the warm 
countries of America, it was but one story in height, 
covered with tiles, and occupied, in its entire prem- 
ises, an extensive square. 

Our Don was standing at his door, and as we ap- 
proached he, with true Castilian courtesy, sallied 
forth to meet us, embraced G., shook me cordially 
by the hand, then bowed us ceremoniously into the 
" sa/(X." Here we seated ourselves upon a sofa at his 
right, and during conversation ^' cigarritos^' passed 
freely, and although thus early in the day, a proffer 
was made of refreshments. We learned from him 
that the courier was to leave the following morning 
for St. Diego ; and as it was necessary to prepare a 
petition to the General, we soon took leave of our 
commandant and proceeded to the house of Lieu- 
tenant Rocha, a friend of G., under whose direction 
the document was to be drawn up. 

During the absence of the courier, who left 
next day with our petition, we determined to pre- 
pare the ship for sea, to be enabled to sail immedi- 
ately in the event of an unfavorable answer from 
the Governor. Accordingly, the men were employed 



26 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

in replenishing water casks, cutting and embarking 
wood, packing beef, and other various duties neces- 
sary to our departure. Whilst these preparations 
were going on, I had many opportunities of visiting 
the neighboring country, and enjoying some friend- 
ly intercourse with the inhabitants. Several En- 
glishmen and Americans were residents here, who 
had been married to pretty Californian women, and 
had settled down in the peculiar occupations of the 
country. I became acquainted particularly with 
Mr. W. E. P. Hartnell and Mr. David Spence, the 
former from England, and connected in business with 
a mercantile house in Lima, having an extensive 
trade on the coast, and making large contracts with 
the missions. The latter was a Scotchman, and a 
partner of Hartnell. An Anglo-Yankee sea cap- 
tain, J. B. E. Cooper, from Boston, and several oth- 
ers, were added to the number of my friends, with 
whom I enjoyed many pleasant hours. 

" El Presidio," or town of Monterey, is situated on 
the declivity of a beautiful rising ground, the top of 
which is crowned with stately pines. The gradual 
ascent to its elevated summit is covered with scat- 
tered woods and rich and varied flowers. There 
are many pleasant locations in the vicinity, where 
the natives frequently resort to celebrate their fes- 
tivities or " Meriendas,^^ and many " lagunas " are 
scattered throughout the neighborhood, that during 
the winter months are crowded with ducks, whilst 
the green plains are literally covered with geese. 
The woods contain an abundance to gratify the 
sportsman, and a variety to enchant the botanist. 



LIFE IX CALIFORNIA. 27 

Amongst the many useful herbs whose medicinal 
virtues have been discovered by the natives, one in 
particular is held in high esteem, since it -is by them 
considered a specific for the poisonous bite of the 
rattlesnake. Its peculiar virtues were discovered 
not long since by an Indian, who seems to have 
placed the most implicit faith in its power, for he 
submitted himself to be bitten by a snake upon the 
arm. His limbs immediately swelled to an extra- 
ordinar}^ size, and the poor native seemed just ready 
to expire, when taking a small quantity of the herb 
in his mouth and chewing it, he spat upon the 
wound, and rubbing this into it with his hand, in a 
short time entirely recovered. It is said by the In- 
dians, that should any venomous reptile eat of the 
plant, its death would be instantaneous. 

Another of their plants of very useful properties, 
heals the most dangerous wound without the accu- 
mulation of pus, which is not an un frequent attend- 
ant upon the application of balsam. Another, 
called the " Canchelagua," is found to be excellent 
in curing the fever and ague, and may be depended 
upon in any case, no matter of how long standing. 
It abounds all over the coast, and in the spring, 
during the season of flowers, its pretty blossoms add 
much to the beauty of the country. 

At this time the population of the town did not 
exceed one thousand souls, including all the neigh- 
boring "Ranchos;" and although they annually 
elected a civil magistrate and two inferior officers, 
yet the general government was a military despotism 
on a petty scale. The Governor General resided at 



28 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

St. Diego, where the temperature of the climate 
better agreed with his delicate constitution ; so that 
when any appeal was necessary from the decision 
of the "Alcalde Constitiicional,^' it was not unfre- 
quently the case that the delay of a month occurred 
ere the documents were interchanged, and a decisive 
judgment given. 

At length, however, our courier returned. Our 
petition had obtained only a trivial modification of 
the law which permitted us to trade at Santa Bar- 
bara in addition to the ports before mentioned ; but 
it required the landing of the entire cargo at these 
places, without any reimbursement of duties in the 
event of their re-embarkation. This was not suffi- 
cient encouragement for us to discharge any part of 

our cargo here, and as G , in private letters from 

his friends at the South, had been advised to repair 
thither, he concluded to make one effort more with 
the General. Accordingly, after calling upon the 
Commandant, and taking leave of our friends, we 
set sail for St. Diego. 

We kept the ship close into the land until reach- 
ing Point " Almejas," where we stood well over to 
the northern side of the bay. Here the light wind 
left us entirely, and our situation became somewhat 
critical ; for the heavy swell from the ocean, which 
was constantly increasing, threatened to drive us 
upon the coast. But fortunately, a light breeze 
springing up from the land, soon wafted us out into 
the open sea. This is the only danger to be feared 
in approaching the coast during the night, for the 
north-west wind during the day usually creates a 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 29 

heavy swell of the sea, which continues to roll in 
long after the breeze ceases. Several vessels have 
by this means been entirely lost, and others much 
endangered, by running too far into the bottom of 
the bay. 

After passing Point " Pinos," we continued our 
course parallel with the coast, making the most 
prominent places and islands, until at last we came 
in sight of the bluff point of St. Diego. Here the 
ship was hove to, the boat lowered and manned, 
and G went up to the Presidio. Satisfactory ar- 
rangements were made with the Governor, the boat 
returned, and the ship ran in and anchored close 
under the guns of the low fortification. 

Immediately commenced the preparations for a 
long stay. The long boat was hoisted out, the ship 
moored, spars were landed, royal yards and masts, 
and top-gallant yards were sent down, and these 
and all other surplus rubbish about the decks 
sent on shore and deposited. Lumber was dis- 
charged, and the carpenter commenced building 
a large house for the storage of hides, which, when 
finished, served as a place of accommodation for 
the lighter part of our cargo while under the exam- 
ination and care of the custom-house officers ; for 
the government as yet had not deemed it important 
to erect an "Aduana " in this port. 

Whilst all this was in progress, G and myself 

visited the Presidio, which was about a league dis- 
tant from the place of anchorage. Horses were sent 
down to us from Don Manuel Domingues, a brother- 
in-law of G . I was unable myself to compre- 



30 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

hend the use and necessity of all the trappings con- 
nected Avith the saddle-gear, which appeared to me 
cumbrous and useless in the extreme ; but my com- 
panion, who w^as an old cruiser in these parts, was 
well acquainted with their convenience and neces- 
sity ; so with his experience as a guide, we galloped 
off on our excursion. Our way was barren of interest 
till we came suddenly to an almost perpendicular 
descent of some thirty or forty feet into a deep and 
broad ravine, where formerly some river had flowed, 
but its bed w^as now filled with bushes and shrubs. 
Previous to this we passed a small shanty in an un- 
finished state, which had been erected some time 
before as a Custom-House, but owing to its incapa- 
city and situation, had been abandoned. We saw 
also the commencement of a new Presidio, that, on 
account of the difficulty of procuring water, had 
also never been completed. These two monuments 
of the imprudence and want of foresight of the 
Governor, served as very good evidence to me of the 
want of sagacity and energy of the government. 

A short ride further brought us to the house of 
our friend Don Manuel. We rode into the '^ patio, '^ 
or court-yard, where a servant took the horses. At 
the threshold of his door we were met by Don Man- 
uel, who embraced us cordially, and presented us to 
the family, his mother, wife and sister. This was to 
be our home during the ship's detention, and 
though its coarse mud walls and damp ground floor 
did not altogether coincide with the idea I had pre- 
viously formed of it, yet if their walls were cold, 
and their floors damp, their hearts were warm, and 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 31 

the abundance of their luxurious entertainment 
more than compensated for any disappointment. 

After dinner we called upon the General Don Jos^ 
Maria de Echeandia, a tall, gaunt personage, who 
received us with true Spanish dignity and polite- 
ness. His house was located in the centre of a large 
square of buildings occupied by his officers, and so 
elevated as to overlook them all, and command a 
view of the sea. On the right hand was a small 
Gothic chapel, with its cemetery, and immediately 
in front, close to the principal entrance, was the 
guard-room, where the soldiers were amusing them- 
selves; some seated on the ground playing cards 
and smoking, while others were dancing to the mu- 
sic of the guitar ; the whole was surrounded by a 
high wall, originally intended as a defence against 
the Indians. At the gate stood a sentinel, with 
slouched hat and blanket throwm over one shoulder, 
his old Spanish musket resting on the other ; his 
pantaloons were buttoned and ornamented at the 
knee, below which, his legs w^ere protected by leg- 
gins of dressed deer-skin, secured with spangled 
garters. 

On the lawn beneath the hill on which the Pre- 
sidio is built stood about thirty houses of rude ap- 
pearance, mostly occupied by retired veterans, not 
so well constructed in respect either to beauty or 
stability as the houses at Monterey, with the excep- 
tion of that belonging to our '' Administrador," Don 
Juan Bandini, whose mansion, then in an unfinished 
state, bade fair, w^hen completed, to surpass any 
other in the countrv. 



32 LIFE IX CALIFORNIA. 

The climate of St. Diego is milder than that of 
any other port on the coast, and not so much subject 
to dense fogs as Monterey and St. Francisco. The 
soil presents a barren and uncultivated appearance, 
and although several spots dignified by the name 
of gardens are found upon the banks of a river 
which flows from the mountains during the rainy 
season, in which they cultivate a few vegetables, yet 
nothing can be seen of any agricultural importance 
except in places at some distance from the town. 
The hills and glens abound with many kinds of 
"Cactus," among which the rabbit and quail find shel- 
ter when pursued by the sportsman. These are both 
very numerous, the latter frequently rising in flocks 
of two or three hundred. Hares are abundant, and 
here also, as at all other places on the coast during the 
rainy season, the plains and ponds are crowded 
with ducks and geese, Avhile thousands of brant 
cover the extensive bay. 

Our accounts with the Custom-House were soon 
adjusted, and we were prepared to commence our 
trade. Visitors were numerous, both male and fe- 
male, who came on board to purchase. Amongst 
others, the reverend Padre Antonio Peyri, of the Mis- 
sion of St. Luis Rey, had expressed a wish to visit 
his many friends on shipboard, for besides our own, 
there were two other vessels then in port ; the En- 
glish brig Vulture, under charter by H. D. Fitch, of 
Massachusetts (whose matrimonial adventures I shall 
presently relate), and the INIexican brig Maria Ester, 
from Acapulco. The good old priest was accord- 
ingly invited, and the last day of his visit was to be 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 33 

passed with us ; other friends came also, and dinner 
was prepared for the occasion. 

As the old gentleman was held in universal re- 
spect upon the coast, not only as founder of the 
Mission over which he presided, but also as a man 
of great mental energy and capacity ; high in favor 
with the government for these qualities, and being 
dearly loved by the people for the extreme benevo- 
lence of his disposition, ^ve prepared to receive him 
with " all the honors." Accordingly, as the rever- 
end Padre descended the gangway, we thundered 
forth a salute, and proceeded to show him the dif- 
ferent parts of the vessel. Particularly did we call 
his attention to our trade-room, which had been 
fitted up with shelves and counters, resembling in 
appearance a country variety store. The amount 
of his purchases testified how vastly he had been 
pleased. 

On the following morning he departed, and when 
the boat had reached a short distance from the ship, 
the men laid upon their oars whilst our guns 
sounded a parting salute. As the smoke cleared 
off, I beheld the old man standing in the boat, and 
gazing toward us with apparent delight, and I 
thought I could perceive by the glistening of his eye, 
that future patronage would be the result of this 
reception. 

I soon became acquainted with several excellent 
families residing at the place, and received from 
them much attention. The ladies were mostly quite 
handsome, particularly those of the families of our 
friends Bandini and Carrillo. The daughters of the 



34 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

former were, though very young, yet very beautiful; 
those of the latter had attained to womanhood, and 
it was with the eldest of them that H. D. Fitch had 
become enamored. He resolved to marry her if he 
could prevail upon the chaplain of the Presidio to 
perform the ceremony without the necessary form of 
becoming a Catholic. But it was the edict of the 
Governor, that no foreigner should marry in the 
country without his special license, and without 
complying with the regulations established by the 
church ; and though the old friar in his heart wished 
them married, yet he dared not disobey the injunc- 
tions of a superior. 

But a plan is soon devised. He resolves to carry her 
off and marry her in Lima — the idea is proposed, 
she consents, and parties are appointed to co-operate 
in the scheme. The day arrives for the brig to 
sail — F. goes up to the Presidio to take leave of his 
friends — bids adieu to his betrothed, and departs for 
the beach. The vessel gets under way — stands out 
to sea — passes the bluff Point Loma, and hauls on 
a wind to the west. Night approaches and a horse- 
man is seen galloping down the road leading to the 
beach, where a boat is prepared for the reception of 
some expected visitor — he alights, and assists a lady 
to dismount, who rode before him — a friend receives 
her — they hurriedly embark — and the boat, as she 
skims over the waves for the distant vessel, is soon 
lost in the gathering darkness of the night. 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 35 



CHAPTER III. 

Journey to St. Pedro, and Departure of the Ship.— Don Manuel 
and his "Sancho Panza."— Arrival at St. Diegito. — St. Luis 
Rey.— Padre Antonio Peyri. — Description of the Mis- 
sion.— Rancho de las Flores.— Mission of St. Juan. — Mayor- 
domo. — " Cuatro Ojos."— Rancho de Santa Ana.— Don Tomas 
Yorba.— St. Gabriel.— Padre Jos6 Sanchez. — Mass.— Gam- 
bling. — A Yankee. — Mission of St. Fernando. — Padre 
Ybarra.— Pueblo de los Angeles.- St. Pedro.— Incidents of 
Trading. 

HAVING accomplished our business for the pres- 
ent at St. Diego, the ship sailed for the port of 

St. Pedro, while G and myself performed the 

journey by land. Horses were brought in the eve- 
ning previous to our departure, and secured for the 
night in the court-yard, so that when we arose in 
the morning they were already saddled and impa- 
tiently standing at the gate. Little time elapsed 
ere we were mounted, and coursing our way across 
the low sandy plain leading from the tow^n to the 
main road. Don Manuel accompanied us, and his 
faithful and confidential servant Chulo, who acted 
usually as a kind of Sancho Panza to his master, 
but on this occasion led the w^ay, driving before him 
our extra horses, with the luggage. Away he gal- 
loped, swinging and snapping his " lasso," dex- 
trously throwing it amongst them, and singing or 
whistling the air of some favorite '^jota" interrupted 



36 LIFE IX CALIFORNIA. 

by an occasional shout to the animals, to urge them 
forward. 

Thus we proceeded, without any novelty, save 
the change from a smooth and level road to a rocky 
and rugged ascent, or a variation in the music of 
our worthy Chulo, till a few hours' ride brought us 
to the beautiful little valley of St. Diegito, where 
we dismounted under a shady grove, by the side of 
a sparkling stream, spread our blankets on the 
grass, and waited impatiently, while Chulo pre- 
pared our dinner. We had brought provision with 
us, and a fire being kindled, he soon gave us ample 
proof of his skill in cookery. A half hour was given 
to our siesta, and we then resumed our journey to 
St. Luis Rey. 

We saw no habitations on the route, and the soil 
was one continued waste of barrenness, entirely des- 
titute of cultivation. A few scattered trees adorned 
the road, and now and then a deer was seen run- 
ning over the hills, or a hare, or rabbit sat basking 
in the sun among the low shrubbery. This, with 
the exception of a passing traveller, or a casual 
glance of the sea, was all that met the eye during a 
ride of forty miles. The great number of hills 
which it is necessary to surmount makes the way 
very tedious, and to the traveller they seem almost 
endless, until at length he perceives from the top of 
one of them, far beneath, in the centre of a beautiful 
vale, the Mission, with its cultivated grounds and 
gardens. 

It was yet early in the afternoon when we rode 
up to the establishment, at the entrance of which 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 37 

many Indians had congregated to behold us, and as 
we dismounted, some stood ready to take off our 
spurs, whilst others unsaddled the horses. The 
reverend father was at prayers, and some time 
elapsed ere he came, giving us a most cordial 
reception. Chocolate and refreshments were at once 
ordered for us, and rooms where we might arrange 
our dress, w^hich had become somewhat soiled by 
the dust. 

This Mission was founded in the year 1798, by its 
present minister, father Antonio Peyri, who had 
been for many years a reformer and director among 
the Indians. At this time (1829) its population was 
about three thousand Indians, who were all em- 
ployed in various occupations. Some were engaged 
in agriculture, while others attended to the man- 
agement of over sixty thousand head of cattle. 
Many were carpenters, masons, coopers, saddlers, 
shoemakers, weavers, &c., while the females were 
employed in spinning and preparing wool for their 
looms, which produced a sufficiency of blankets for 
their yearly consumption. Thus every one had his 
particular vocation, and each department its official 
superintendent, or alcalde; these were subject to the 
supervision of one or more Spanish mayordomos, 
who were appointed by the missionary father, and 
consequently under his immediate direction. 

The building occupies a large square, of at least 
eighty or ninety yards each side ; forming an ex- 
tensive area, in the centre of which a fountain con- 
stantly supplies the establishment with pure water. 

The front is protected by a long corridor, sup- 



38 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

ported by thirty-two arches, ornamented with 
latticed railings, which, together with the fine 
appearance of the church on the right, presents an 
attractive view to the traveller; the interior is 
divided into apartments for the missionary and 
mayordomos, store-rooms, workshops, hospitals, 
rooms for unmarried males and females, while near 
at hand is a range of buildings tenanted by the 
families of the superintendents. There is also a 
guard-house, where were stationed some ten or a 
dozen soldiers, and in the rear spacious granaries 
stored with an abundance of Avheat, corn, beans, 
peas, &c. ; also large enclosures for wagous, carts, 
and the implements of agriculture. In the interior 
of the square might be seen the various trades at 
work, presenting a scene not dissimilar to some of 
the working departments of our state prisons. Ad- 
joining are two large gardens, which suppl}^ the 
table with fruit and vegetables, and two or three 
large ^' ranchos " or farms are situated from five to 
eight leagues distant, where the Indians are em- 
ployed in cultivation and domesticating cattle. 

The church is a large, stone edifice, whose exterior 
is not without some considerable ornament and 
tasteful finish ; but the interior is richer, and the 
walls are adorned with a variety of pictures of 
saints and Scripture subjects, glaringly colored, and 
attractive to the eye. Around the altar are many 
images of the saints, and the tall and massive can- 
delabras, lighted during mass, throw an imposing 
light upon the whole. 

Mass is offered daily, and the greater portion of 



LIFE IX CALIFORXIA. 39 

the Indians attend; but it is not unusual to see 
numbers of them driven along by alcaldes, and 
under the whip's lash forced to the very doors of 
the sanctuary. The men are placed generally upon 
the left, and the females occupy the right of the 
church, so that a passage way or aisle is formed 
between them from the principal entrance to the 
altar, where zealous officials are stationed to enforce 
silence and attention. At evening again, " El 
Rosario " is prayed, and a second time all assemble 
to participate in supplication to the Virgin. 

The condition of these Indians is miserable in- 
deed ; and it is not to be wondered at that many 
attempt to escape from the severity of the religious 
discipline at the Mission. They are pursued, and 
generally taken ; when they are flogged, and an iron 
clog is fastened to their legs, serving as additional 
punishment, and a warning to others. 

Remaining here but a few days, we then con- 
tinued our journey towards the mission of St. Juan 
Capistrano, distant about ten leagues. After taking 
leave of our hospitable friend, we mounted our 
horses and rode on without meeting any place 
worthy of notice till we came to the " Rancho de las 
Flores," one of the cattle establishments of San Luis. 
It is situated on an eminence commanding a view 
of the sea, with the distant islands St. Clemente and 
Catalina, and overlooking an adjacent llevel, ex- 
tending for miles around, covered with thousands 
of animals grazing. A few inferior gardens are 
scattered about in the little valleys, cultivated by 
the Indians, for their own personal benefit, and in 



40 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

which they are permitted to labor when not required 
to give* their time to the interests of the Mission. 

Not many leagues further brought us to a beauti- 
ful spot in the centre of an opening in the high- 
lands, extending from the beach to the distant 
mountains. A small river flowed doAvn the glen 
toward the sea, but the constant action of the surf 
upon the sand had dammed up its mouth and 
formed it into a lake. We halted on its margin to 
partake of the liberal provision supplied us by the 
father Antonio, and then continued our course along 
the hard and sandy beach to the Mission. At 
length we reached an opening between the hills, 
through which we caught a first glimpse of the 
establishment; and pushing our horses to a smart 
gallop, we soon arrived at its entrance. Several strag- 
gling Indian boys were seen about the gates, and 
two or three approached as we alighted ; they said 
nothing, but stood gazing at the great staring eyes 

of friend G , which were considerably magnified 

through the spectacles he wore, till at last a sudden 
light seemed to break upon their dull comprehen- 
sions, and, with a cry of " Cuatro ojos," " cuatro 
ojos," (four eyes,) they darted away. This soubriquet 

we instantly adopted, and G was ever known 

throughout the whole coast by the nickname of 
*' cuatro ojos.^' 

A corpulent old man received us at the door, who 
bade us welcome, and appeared delighted to see my 
companion, with whom he had formed an acquaint- 
ance in former years. It was the superintendent of 
the Mission, who, superannuated as he seemed, yet 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 41 

from long experience in the situation, was still 
capable of fulfilling the duties of his office ; he gave 
us a room within the square, where we proceeded 
to take possession, and found the furniture, like the 
building, fast tumbling to decay. Two aged mis- 
sionary friars resided here, but one alone attended 
to the temporal concerns of the Mission ; this was 
Padre Geronimo Boscana; the other. Padre Jose 
Maria Zalveder, though at this time secluded, and 
apparently weak in mind, once took an active and 
laborious part in the management of the Missions. 
This establishment was founded in the year 1776, 
and, though in early years the largest in the 
country, yet is now in a dilapidated state, and the 
Indians are much neglected. There yet remain 
the ruins of an immense church, which was de- 
stroyed by an earthquake in 1812, when many 
Indians were buried in its fall. It still bears the 
appearance of having been one of the best finished 
structures of the country, and the workmanship dis- 
played in the sculpture upon its walls and its 
vaulted roof would command admiration in our 
own country. 

The arrangement of the mission of St. Juan is 
similar to that of St. Luis ; in fact, all these estab- 
lishments are formed upon the same plan, and much 
resemble each other, varying only in their extent 
and population. In many of the villages the resi- 
dences consist of straw huts of an oval form, which, 
when decayed, the Indians set on fire and erect new 
ones — here, however, they are built of unburnt 
brick, tiled and whitewashed, forming five or six 



42 LIFE IX CALIFORNIA. 

blocks, or streets, which present a neat and com- 
fortable appearance. 

It was not until evening (supper time) that we 
saw the padres, who were then seated at the table, 
unconscious of our approach till announced by the 
old mayordomo. Immediately they arose, em- 
braced us, and welcomed us to their hospitable 
board. During the meal our conversation turned 
on the political state of Europe, in regard to which 
they seemed to be very well informed, and the}^ 
found an absorbing topic in the prospect of Spanish 
influence in Mexico. 

The following morning we started for St. Gabriel, 
distant twenty leagues. As we proceeded, our 
course was through a long and narrow defile be- 
tween the hills, having before us the high snow- 
capped mountains of St. Juan, till at length we left 
them on our right, and a short gallop soon brought 
us to an extensive plain. The road was level, and 
" Chulo," elated with the prospect of soon reaching 
the habitation of his " ladye-love," resumed his 
whistling and shouting ; and dashing forward 
among the animals, drove them furiously along the 
track. We followed swiftly in his rear, our horses 
being unwilling to be left behind, and a few hours 
brought us to the farm or rancho de St. Ana. 

The proprietor, "Don Tomas Yorba," a tall, lean 
personage, dressed in all the extravagance of his 
country's costume, received us at the door of his 
house. He came toward us, embraced G. and his 
compadre Don Manuel, took me cordially by the 
hand, and invited us to enter. Arrangements were 



LIFE IX CALIFORNIA. 43 

soon made for dinner, which, notwithstanding the 
haste with which it was served, did much credit to 
the provider, as did our appetites to its excellent 
equalities. 

Don Tomas and friend G. then commencing a 
business conversation, I got up from the table and 
retreated to the corridor, where I could study, un- 
observed, the character and appearance of our host. 
Upon his head he wore a black silk handkerchief, 
the four corners of which hung down his neck be- 
hind. An embroidered shirt, a cravat of w^hite 
jaconet tastefully tied, a blue damask vest, short 
clothes of crimson velvet, a bright green cloth jacket, 
with large silver buttons, and shoes of embroidered 
deer skin, comprised his dress. I was afterwards 
informed by Don Manuel, that on some occasions, 
such as some particular feast day or festival, his 
entire display often exceeded in value a thousand 
dollars. 

The day was wearing apace, so we hastened our 
departure, and mounted again for the journey. 
Don Tomas had prepared to accompany us to a 
river that crossed our route, which at some seasons 
of the year proved dangerous to travellers unac- 
quainted with the pass. This was a thoughtful 
precaution on his part, and received from us due 
acknowledgment. We rode along slowly through 
the sandy soil, till at length we saw the rapid 
stream, which, by our friend's guidance, was easily 
forded, and he bade us farewell. 

The journey continued across a plain, where thou- 
sands of cattle were grazing ; and immense herds of 



44 LIFE IN CALIFOFtXIA. 

wild horses, which fled swiftly to the mountains on 
our approach. We soon reached the river of St. 
Gabriel, and having forded this stream, Don Manuel, 
who had accompanied us thus far from St. Diego, 
left us to pursue our journey alone to the Mission, 
which was now just in sight, whilst he proceeded 
for " El Pueblo de los Angeles," where his wife's fam- 
ily resided, and where he had for some time past 
made his permanent home. 

It was Saturday evening, and as we approached 
the buildings of the Mission, the chapel bells tolled 
the hour for prayer. Hundreds of Indians were 
kneeling upon the ground, and as the tolling ceased, 
they slowly rose to retire, and a merry peal an- 
nounced the coming of the Sabbath. 

The director of St. Gabriel was father Jos^ San- 
ches, who for many years had controlled the estab- 
lishment, which, through his management, had 
advanced to its present flourishing condition. Pos- 
sessing a kind, generous, and lively disposition, he 
had acquired, in consequence, a multitude of friends, 
who constantly flocked around him ; whilst through 
his liberality the needy wanderer, of whatever 
nation or creed, found a home and protection in the 
Mission. 

In the morning, at six o'clock, w^e went to the 
church, where the priest had already commenced 
the service of the mass. The imposing ceremony, 
glittering ornaments, and illuminated walls, were 
well adapted to captivate the simple mind of the 
Indian, and I could not but admire the apparent 
devotion of the multitude, who seemed absorbed, 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 45 

heart and soul, in the scene before them. The sol- 
emn music of the mass was well selected, and the 
Indian voices accorded harmoniously with the flutes 
and violins that accompanied them. On retiring 
from the church, the musicians stationed them- 
selves at a private door of the building, whence 
issued the reverend father, whom they escorted with 
music to his quarters ; there they remained for a 
half hour, performing waltzes and marches, until 
some trifling present was distributed among them, 
when they retired to their homes. 

As is usual on all their " dias de fiesta" the re- 
maining part of the Sabbath is devoted to amuse- 
ments, and the Indian generally resorts to gambling, 
in which he indulges to the most criminal excess, 
frequently losing all he possesses in the world — his 
clothes — beads, baubles of all kinds, and even his 
wife and children ! We saw them thus engaged, 
scattered in groups about the Mission, while at a 
little distance quite an exciting horse race was going 
on ; the Indians betting as wildly on their favorite 
animals as upon the games of chance, which found 
so many devotees. 

There are several extensive gardens attached to 
this Mission, where may be found oranges, citrons, 
limes, apples, pears, peaches, pomegranates, figs, and 
grapes in abundance. From the latter they make 
yearly from four to six hundred barrels of wine, 
and two hundred of brandy ; the sale of which pro- 
duces an income of more than twelve thousand 
dollars. The storehouses and granaries are kept 
well supplied, and the corridor in the square is 



46 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

usually heaped up with piles of hides and tallow. 
Besides the resources of the vineyard, the Mission 
derives considerable revenue from the sale of grain ; 
and the weekly slaughter of cattle produces a suf- 
ficient sum for clothing and supporting the In- 
dians. 

The two " ranchos^^ of St. Bernardino and Sta. 
Anita are included in the possessions of the Mis- 
sion ; the former of these has been assigned by the 
padres for the sole purpose of domesticating cattle, 
and is located some leagues distant, in a secluded 
valley among the mountains; the latter is for culti- 
vation, and is one of the fairy spots to be met wdth 
so often in California. On the declivity of a hill 
is erected a molino, or grist-mill, surrounded with 
fruit trees and flowers. A beautiful lake lies calm 
and unruffled in front, and all around fresh streams 
are gushing from the earth, and scattering their 
waters in every direction. It would be a magnifi- 
cent spot for a summer retreat, and much reminded 
me of many of the beautiful locations to be met 
with in the vicinity of Boston. 

The Mission of St. Gabriel was founded in the 
year 1771, and its population, including the two 
ranchos before mentioned, now numbered from 
twelve to fifteen hundred. It was thought at one 
time to possess from eighty to over a hundred thou- 
sand head of cattle, besides horses, mules, and 
sheep, and countless numbers which run at large. 
No advantage is derived from them be3^ond the 
value of their hides and tallow, and thus thousands 
of dollars are yearly left to perish on the field. 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 47 

While here, I met with a Yankee * from the in- 
terior of New England, who had been a resident in 
the country for many years, and who had become, 
in manner and appearance, a complete Californian. 
One peculiarity, however, he retained — the spirit of 
trade, which had lost none of its original power, 
and to which I owed thus early my acquaintance 
with him. He was married, and living in Santa 
Barbara, where he was engaged in business in a 
small way, and learning that we were on our route 
up the coast, he had come all the way to meet us, 
in order to gain some trifling advantage over his 
competitors in trade. 

Our next destination, after concluding our busi- 
ness with father Sanches, was St. Fernando, situated 
only about eight leagues further up the coast. We 
accordingly set out, on being rejoined by Don 
Manuel and his " Sancho Panza," who once more 
took the lead, and we followed close in his rear. 
Our horses were in fine condition, and^ we arrived 
at the Mission in little more than three hours. The 
road generally was good, and the scenery for the 
first few leagues was a continuation of the beautiful 
grounds of Sta. Anita, with a fine view, on the right, 
of one of the ridges of the lofty Andes. 

St. Fernando was founded in the year 1797, and 
at this time was governed by the reverend father 
Francisco Ybarra ; a short, thick, ugly-looking old 
man, whose looks did not belie his character. In 
his ow^n opinion no one knew so much as himself; 
nothing was so good as that which he possessed ; 

* Daniel A. Hill, from Billerica, Massachusetts. 



48 LIFE IX CALIFORNIA. 

and, being at the head of his establishment, no one 
ever presumed to call his sentiments into question. 
The niggardly administration of this place, com- 
pared with the liberality and profusion of the other 
missions we had visited, presented a complete con- 
trast; and the meanness and unpopularity of our 
host had gained for him the nickname of " cocJiino " 
or " hog." At supper I was amused at the economy 
displayed in the arrangement of his table, which 
seemed perfectl}^ in accordance with the narrowness 
of his mind. A door, hinged at the bottom, which 
served to close a recess in the wall, used as a cup- 
board, was let down upon the occasion ; and on this 
w^as placed our repast. The dimensions were onl}^ 
sufficient to admit of four persons comfortably 
seated; and, when the number was larger, to ac- 
commodate them all, recourse was had to a dirty- 
looking bench which stood in one corner of the 
apartment. 

Distrustful of every one who wished to purchase 
his tallow or hides, he had accumulated an immense 
amount in his storehouses, where many of the latter 
had been destroyed by the length of time they had 
remained deposited. The tallow he had laid down 
in large, arched, stone vats, of sufficient capacity to 
contain several cargoes. 

In the morning we left, and pursued our course 
across the valley of St. Fernando, towards the glen 
of Cowwanga, and a short gallop over the hills 
brought us in sight of the " Pueblo de los Angeles," 
situated about three leagues from St. Gabriel, and 
about twenty miles from the bay of St. Pedro. The 



LIFE IX CALIFORNIA. 49 

population of this town is about fifteen hundred ; 
and has an alcalde, two regidores, and a syndico, 
who compose its '^ Ayimtamiento" or Town Council. 
In the vicinity are many vineyards and corn-fields, 
and some fine gardens, crossed by beautiful streams 
of water. The lands being level and fertile, are 
capable of great agricultural improvement; and 
several Americans, taking advantage of the resources 
of the place, are living here, having storehouses, 
and are engaged in business. After passing the 
night here, we resumed our journey to St. Pedro. 
The ride was over a long plain through the farm of 
Don Manuel, called " El rancho de Dominguez," 
wdiere we stopped a while to rest, and having taken 
a final leave of our friend, pursued our way to the 
beach. 

We found the ship at anchor, having performed 
the passage in three days and a half, and was then 
waiting our arrival. On board were our friend 
Yorba, from Sta. Ana, the old mayordomo from 
St. Juan, and several others waiting for goods, 
whom we immediately despatched, and then made 
preparations for the numerous friends whom we ex- 
pected to arrive in the morning. 

Having imprudently left St. Diego without pass- 
ports, we found a letter from the " Comandante " of 
the place, reproving us for having presumed to 
travel in the country without these necessary docu- 
ments. We met with no difficulty, however, on our 
route without them, which we attributed to the fact 
of our being "pretty well known upon the road, as 
the saying is." The necessity of procuring pass- 



50 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

ports is not confined to foreigners alone, but also to 
the country people, who, when even going to their 
farms, or to the neighboring villages, are required 
to obtain permission from the authorities. The 
rigid performance of this custom, although often- 
times extremely inconvenient, still had its advan- 
tages; inasmuch as the escape of a criminal was 
next to impossible, for he was most generally sure 
to be detected at the missions or outposts. 

The harbor of St. Pedro is an extensive bay, and, 
although not considered a safe anchorage during the 
winter months, when the southeast wind prevails, 
yet vessels frequently embark and discharge their 
cargoes here at all seasons of the year. The best 
anchorage is close under the northwest point of the 
bay, about three quarters of a mile outside of a 
small and rocky island ; and the same distance from 
the beach. There is a house at the landing-place 
which generally serves as a land-mark, in connection 
with the preceding locations, and vessels usually, in 
the mild season of the year, bring this to bear 
W.N.W., whilst the point lies S.AV. by S., and the 
island N.JE. From the month of October, till the 
beginning of May, vessels anchor at least a mile 
outside of these bearings, and ships are necessarily 
prepared for slipping their cables, and getting under 
way, should the wind, as is often the case, chop in 
suddenly from the S.E. The holding ground is 
good ; of stiff mud, in four and a half to nine 
fathoms. 

As we anticipated, our friends came in the morn- 
ing, flocking on board from all quarters; and soon 



LIFE IX CALIFORXIA. 51 

a busy scene commenced, afloat and ashore. Boats 
were plying to and fro — launches laden with the 
variety of our cargo passing to the beach, and men, 
women, and children crowding upon our decks, 
partaking in the general excitement. On shore all 
was confusion. Cattle and carts laden with hides 
and tallow, " fjenfe de razon,^^ and Indians, busily 
employed in the delivery of their produce, and re- 
ceiving in return its value in goods ; groups of 
individuals seated around little bonfires upon the 
ground, and horsemen racing over the plain in 
every direction. Thus the day passed ; some de- 
parting, some arriving; till long after sunset the 
low white road leading across the plain to the town, 
appeared a living panorama. 

Due north from the place of anchorage is a nar- 
row creek, communicating with a shallow basin, 
operated upon by the tides, where at this time thou- 
sands of hair-seal might be seen at low water, bask- 
ing on the sand-banks. The channel here when at 
full flood has ten feet of water over the bar ; so that, 
in moderate weather, vessels drawing nine feet can 
easily pass over, and anchor sufficiently near the 
shore to discharge their cargoes without the aid of 
launches. With very little expense it might be 
made a place of anchorage for large ships, either by 
digging out and deepening the present channel, or 
by closing up another outlet to the north of the 
island, which would bring the whole strength of 
the current through one passage, and thus wash 
a\Yay its sandy bottom. 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 



CHAPTER IV. 

Departure for Santa Barbara.— ArrivaL— The Presidio.— Land- 
ing through the Surf.— Friend DanieL— A Ride on Mule- 
back. — Visit to Doiia Maria Antonia. — House of Friend Dan- 
iel. — Mission of Santa Barbara.— Female Costume. — Mis- 
sions of St. Ynes and Purissima.— Rancho del Refugio.— 
St. Buenaventura. — Return to St. Diego.— House Blessing. 
— Fandango. 

HAVING collected in St. Pedro more produce 
than could be well received on board at that 
time, we resolved J^o deposit it in the storehouse on 
shore, while the ship proceeded to some of the north- 
ward ports. The anchor was weighed ; the vessel 
hauled on a wind, and stood over towards a low gap 
in the island of St. Catalina, and then back again 
to the main ; tacking off and on shore during the 
night, so that when daylight broke, we found our- 
selves between Point Dume and Point Conversion. 
The wind was very light, hardly sufficient to keep 
steerage way; but soon the sea breeze began to blow, 
and a cracking westerly wind enabled us during the 
day to beat up off" the mission of St. Buenaventura. 
Here the shore is bold, and there is good anchorage 
for all classes of vessels ; but it is seldom visited on 
account of the high surf. The countr}^ as we pro- 
ceeded northward assumed a more cultivated and 
beautiful appearance ; the hills, however, seemed 



LIFE IX CALIFORNIA. 53 

bleak and barren, but the valleys presented the 
highest degree of fertility. From the mission, we 
stood over for some small and rocky islands at the 
southeast point of Sta. Cruz ; and on the following 
morning, close under our lee, we beheld the beauti- 
ful vale of Sta. Barbara. 

8een from the ship, the " Presidio " or town, its 
charming vicinity, and neat little mission in the 
background, all situated on an inclined plane, rising 
gradually from the sea to a range of verdant hills, 
three miles from the beach, have a striking and 
beautiful effect. Distance, however, in this case, 
''lends enchantment to the view," which a nearer 
approach somewhat dispels ; for we found the 
houses of the town, of which there were some two 
hundred, in not ver}^ good condition. They are 
built in the Spanish mode, with adobe walls, and roofs 
of tile, and are scattered about outside of the mili- 
tary department ; shewing a total disregard of order 
on the part of the authorities. A ridge of rugged 
highlands extends along the rear, reaching from St. 
Buenaventura to Point Conception, and on the left 
of the town, in an elevated position, stands the Cas- 
tillo or fortress. 

The port of Santa Barbara is completely sheltered 
from the northwest and westerly winds, but some- 
what exposed to those from the southeast. The an- 
chorage is hard sand, abounding in sea- weed, where 
the ship came to, in six and a half fathoms. The 
sails were furled, the boat lowered and manned, and 
we proceeded to the shore. 

A heavy westerly wind during the night had 



54 LIFE IX CALIFORNIA. 

'' knocked up " considerable swell, which continued 
to roll in and fall heavily upon the sand. Our men 
pulled lustily till ordered to lay upon their oars, 
when we effected our landing. In approaching the 
shore through the surf, more depends upon the 
judgment of the person steering the boat than u|)on 
the rowers. Usually there are three consecutive 
rolls, and then follows a temporary recession ; and 
to land safel3%it is necessary to proceed with caution, 
wait an opportunity by observing the swell ; pull 
in strong on a third roller, and the moment the 
boat strikes the sand, the oars should be cast on 
either side, while the men jump out and prevent 
her being carried back by the retiring surf. 

At the landing we found our Yankee friend, Dan- 
iel Hill, and a few others who had come down to 
greet Gale. As the town was three quarters of a 
mile distant, I accepted Daniel's offer of his fine 
saddled mule, and he getting up behind me, we rode 
along slowly, until we reached a small descent, 
where flowed a stream Avliich recent rains had swol- 
len beyond its usual bounds. Here the stubborn 
animal stopped, and seemed disinclined to pro- 
ceed, but repeated application of the spurs at last 
urged him forward, and he forded the stream. xVs- 
cending the opposite bank, he again stopped, and 
giving a sudden fling in the air with his heels, sent 
us both rolling down towards the water. Fortu- 
nately we were neither wet nor hurt, but after so 
decided a manifestation of the creature's abilities, I 
declined remounting. Daniel, however, nowise dis- 
concerted, mounted the beast and rode olf alone. 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 55 

As was requisite, we first visited the Commandant, 
in order to leave with him the ship's roll. This is 
a compliance exacted from all vessels arriving at 
ports in California, and usually their captains are 
obliged to deliver their documents in person. 

The most stately house in the place at this time 
was that of the diputado to Mexico, Don Jos^ de la 
Guerra y Noriega. Gale having in his possession 
some presents for the family, we proceeded thither 
at once. Here we partook of chocolate with the 
lady of the house, Dona Maria Antonia, whilst her 
daughters eagerly distributed the seyeral gifts. The 
old lady, a fine, motherly, good woman, had acquired 
by her deportment and affectionate manner toward 
strangers the esteem of all who knew her. Her father 
was an officer in the royal command, previous to 
the success of republicanism in Mexico, and her 
brothers, all but one, were then officers in the army. 
An American lady once observed to me, that there 
were in California two things supremely good. La 
Senora Noriega, and grapes ! 

During the afternoon, we visited the house of our 
friend Daniel. He was standing at the door anx- 
iously awaiting our approach ; and two or three chil- 
dren were playing in the corridor before him. As we 
drew near, the little ones retired, and chairs were 
brought outside, that we might enjoy the fresh air. 
Here we were to remain for the night, and arrange- 
ments were made accordingly. Supper was soon an- 
nounced, when we had the pleasure of seeing the 
lady of the house, a fine, healthy-looking female, 
with splendid eyes and beautiful black hair ; but 



oG LIFE IX CALIFORNIA. 

she said but little, and soon retired with her 
children. 

The Presidio of Santa Barbara consists of a large 
square of buildings, surrounded by high walls, in 
plan similar to that of St. Diego, and contains a 
chapel, cemetery, prison, and storehouses. The Com- 
mandant, Don Romualdo Pacheco, is a Mexican, 
who came to the country in the 3^ear 1825, with the 
present Governor, Echeandia. The number of men 
garrisoned under his command does not exceed forty. 

In the morning we walked to the mission, distant 
from the town about half a league. The road was 
pleasant, through scattered oaks ; and groups of 
cattle were seen grazing upon the grassy plains. 
On the right were spacious wheat fields; at length, 
through a narrow w^ay, amid immense rocks scat- 
tered over the ground, we reached the establishment. 
The stone church, with its two towers and extensive 
wing, its artificial clock, tiled roofs, arched corridor, 
and majestic fountain, was before us. On the right 
were various buildings for superintendents, a guard- 
house, tannery, and a dilapidated grist-mill ; on the 
left, the spacious garden, with its fruit trees and 
flowers, and several rows of low buildings. Father 
Antonio Jimeno, the missionary, received us in a 
small but tastefully arranged apartment ; the floor 
of which w^as of colored cement, and the walls 
painted and hung round with pictures of saints. 
Two or three sofas, a long table and book-case, com- 
prised its furniture. He welcomed us kindly, and 
after a short conversation, we w^alked into the " j>f/- 
^io," or square, where carpenters, saddlers, and shoe- 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 0/ 

makers were at work, and young girls spinning and 
preparing wool for the loom. We next entered the 
vestry, which was carpeted and hung round with 
looking-glasses and fine paintings. Adjoining this 
was a small, but convenient dressing-room, where 
were arranged the numerous dresses and ornaments 
used in the church services, some of them rich and 
of the most costly description. From this a door 
led into the church, where we beheld a gorgeous 
display of banners, paintings, images, and crucifixes 
of gold and silver. The musicians attached to the 
choir were practicing, and played some fine airs ; 
rather unsuitable, however, to the place. It was 
not unusual, both there and at the churches of other 
missions, to hear during the mass the most lively 
dancing tunes. Another door of the church opened 
upon the cemetery, where were buried the deceased 
Christians of the Mission and Presidio, surrounded 
by a thick wall, and having in one corner the char- 
nel house, crowded with a ghastly array of skulls 
and bones. 

In the rear, from a slight elevation, might be seen 
large fields of wheat and corn ; and the little valleys 
among the hills, filled with fruit and vegetable gar- 
dens. A foaming stream rushes down the moun- 
tain, from w^hich is carried in an open aqueduct 
along the brow of the hill, a supply of water for a 
spacious reservoir, of beautiful masonry. 

We returned to tow^n, and at the beach found a 
lively and busy scene. Our men were passing 
through the surf to the launch bearing hides upon 
their heads, while others landed, from smaller boats, 



58 LIFE IN CALIFOKNIA. 

portions of the ship's cargo. It was a merry sight, 
and their shouts mingled with the sound of the 
waves as they beat upon the sand. AVe embarked 
on board ship, where soon our decks were crowded 
with men and women of all classes ; many coming 
to purchase, some to see the vessel, and others to ac- 
company their friends, so that it was not unusual 
for us to have a party of twenty or thirty at dinner. 

The dress worn by the middling class of females 
is a chemise with short embroidered sleeves, richly 
trimmed with lace, a muslin petticoat flounced with 
scarlet, and secured at the waist by a silk band of 
the same color, shoes of velvet or blue satin, a cotton 
reboso or scarf, pearl necklace and ear-rings, with the 
hair falling in broad plaits down the back. Others 
of the higher class dress in the English style, and 
instead of the reboso substitute a rich and costly 
shawl of silk or satin. There is something graceful 
in the management of the reboso that the natives 
alone can impart, and the perfect nonchalance w4th 
which it is thrown about them and worn, adds 
greatly to its beauty. 

Very few of the men have adopted our mode of 
dress, the greater part adhering to the ancient cos- 
tume of the past century. Short clothes and jacket 
trimmed with scarlet, a silk sash about the waist, 
botas of ornamented and embroidered deer skin, se- 
cured by colored "garters, embroidered shoes, the 
liair long, braided and fastened behind with ribbons, 
a black silk handkerchief around the head, sur- 
mounted by an oval and broad-brimmed hat, is 
the dress universally worn by the men of California. 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 59 

The following morning, intending to visit the 
northern missions of Santa Ynes and Purissima, we 
started off about eight o'clock accompanied by our 
friend Daniel. We rode through a woody pass, 
crossed a small plain and many hills, till we at 
length reached a place called, from the innumerable 
bogs and C[uagmires with which it abounds, " Las 
Cenegitas;" yet we found here several gardens and 
two or three fine maize fields. Continuing our 
course from this place, nearly parallel with the 
coast ; passing several small farms attached to the 
Mission, and many pleasant little valleys, through 
which rivulets flowed down to the sea ; a ride of 
about two hours and a half brought us to the " Ran- 
cho del Refugio," generally termed " Ortega Farm.'^ 
It consisted of three or four large buildings, several 
gardens or vineyards, and a few fields of corn, wheat, 
and beans. Daniel informed me it was once a large 
place, and, under the supervision of its proprietor, 
Don Jose Maria Ortega, appeared like a little mis- 
sion ; but that in the year 1819 it was visited by a 
piratical vessel, under the command of Buchard, a 
French navigator, who nearly destroyed it, since 
when it has never regained its once flourishing con- 
dition. 

Here commences the Cuesta or pass across the 
mountains. It is a winding road , in many places only 
of sufhcient wddth for one animal to pass, and almost 
blocked up with loose stones. From the level sum- 
mit to which we slowly ascended, we had on one side 
an extensive view of the shore from Point Conception 
to Santa Barbara, comprising more than sixty miles 



00 LIFE IX CALIFORNIA. 

of sea-coast, and on the other a fine open country 
covered Avith woods and abounding in excellent 
pasturage. Here we rested a few moments to give 
our animals breath, and then commenced our grad- 
ual descent. This we found even more tedious, and 
oftentimes, from the immense numbers of worn 
rocks and loose stones, more dangerous than had 
been our ascent. We accomplished the task, how- 
ever, and soon beheld, upon a distant elevation, the 
Mission of Santa Ynes. The fording of a river and 
a short gallop soon brought us to its door. 

This Mission, founded in 1797, was governed by 
Father Bias Ordas, who received us with the accus- 
tomed cordiality of his hospitable order. The 
building we found much like that of Santa Barbara, 
differing only in the appearance of the church and 
the cleanliness of its apartments. In front was a 
large brick enclosure where the females bathed and 
washed ; to the right the gardens, filled with choice 
fruit trees, and on the left a few clusters of Indian 
huts and tiled houses. The storehouses were well 
stocked with grain, and the domesticated cattle 
numbered nearl}^ nine thousand. 

In the morning we rode over to the Purissima, 
where we found two reverend friars. Fathers Victoria 
and Juan Moreno. This mission was originally es- 
tablished in 1787, at a place now known as " La 
Mlsion Vieja;^^ but has since been rebuilt in its 
present location, and though possessing abundant 
wealth, in cattle and planting grounds, yet it has 
been much neglected, and the Indians generally are 
ill clothed, and seem in the most abject condition. 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 61 

We remained here but a short time, and returning 
to Santa Ynes, slept there that night, and the next 
day reached the ship. 

The morning after, we set out on an excursion to 
St. Buenaventura. The road thither is partly over 
the hard sandy beach, and at times, when the tide 
is low, it is possible to perform the whole journey 
over this smooth level. We were not over two hours 
on the road, and arrived before dinner, finding the 
reverend father Francisco Uria closely wrapped up 
in his studies, in his sitting apartment. He was 
the Padre and Director of the iNIission which was 
founded in 1782, and which is situated near the sea- 
shore, at the entrance of a valley leading into the 
interior among the mountains. It possesses about 
six thousand cattle and some splendid locations for 
cultivation. Besides the church attached to the 
main building, there is a small chapel towards the 
beach, in which mass is at no time performed except 
on extraordinary occasions. 

At dinner the fare was sumptuous, and I was much 
amused at the eccentricity of the old Padre, who 
kept constantly annoying four large cats, his daily 
companions ; or with a long stick thumped upon 
the heads of his Indian boys, and seemed delighted 
thus to gratify his singular propensities. 

After concluding our meal, we walked with him 
to the garden, where we found a fine fountain of ex- 
cellent water, and an abundance of fruits and vege- 
tables. In their proper seasons they have apples, 
pears, peaches, pomegranates, tunas or prickly pears, 
and grapes. Along the margin of the river St. 



02 LIFE IX CALIFORNIA. 

Buenaventura are many small gardens belonging to 
the Indians, where they raise fruit and vegetables, 
which are taken to the town and disposed of. The 
whale ships that touch at Sta. Barbara are from 
them frequently supplied with provisions. The 
small streams in the vicinity abound with fish, 
and salmon of excellent quality are sometimes taken 
in the river. 

In the morning we departed early, for the town, 
where, on our arrival, the ship was immediately 
prepared for her return South. The wind was 
favorable ; the passage short ; and, twenty -four 
hours after weighing anchor at Sta. Barbara, it was 
cast a second time in the bay of St. Pedro. Here 
we embarked the hides and tallow we had deposited, 
and then proceeded for the port of St. Diego. 

The ship arrived there after a passage of two days, 
came to, and was anchored within pistol-shot of the 
shore, immediately opposite the storehouse, so as to 
be conveniently located for landing hides. Then 
commenced a busy scene. Boat after boat, launch 
after launch was laden and discharged on tlie beach, 
where men were stationed to receive and pile them 
upon large spars for protection from the dampness 
of the ground ; some secured together by ropes were 
placed at low water-mark to soak, and two large 
vats which had been made by the carpenter during 
our absence, were filled with sea-water, into which 
large quantities of salt was thrown to increase its 
strength for a second immersion which the hides 
underwent to prepare them for shipping. 

Senor Don Juan Bandini had his house hendccida, 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 63 

or blessed, during our stay here, and Gale and myself 
were invited to attend. The General, his officers, 
with many friends and their families, were present. 
The ceremony took place at noon, when the chap- 
lain proceeded through the different apartments, 
sprinkling holy water upon the walls, and uttering 
verses in Latin. This concluded, we sat down to 
an excellent dinner, consisting of all the luxuries 
the place afforded, provided in Don Juan's best 
style. As soon as the cloth was removed, the 
guitar and the violin were put in requisition, and a 
dance began. It lasted, however, but a little while, 
for it was necessary for them to spare their exertions 
for the GYening fandango. So j:)oco a poco, all grad- 
ually retired to their homes. 

At an early hour the different passages leading to 
the house were enlivened with men, women, and 
children, hurrying to the dance; for on such occa- 
sions it was customary for every body to attend 
without waiting for the formality of an invitation. 
A crowd of leperos was collected about the door 
when we arrived, now and then giving its shouts of 
approbation to the performances within, and it was 
with some difficulty we forced our entrance. Two 
persons were upon the floor dancing " el jarabe.'' 
They kept time to the music, by drumming with 
their feet, on the heel and toe system, w^ith such 
precision, that the sound struck harmoniously upon 
the ear, and the admirable execution would not 
have done injustice to a pair of drum-sticks in the 
hands of an able professor. The attitude of the 
female dancer was erect, with her head a little in- 



()4 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

clined to the right shoulder, as she modestly cast 
her eyes to the floor, whilst her hands gracefully 
held the skirts of her dress, suspending it ahove tlie 
ankle so as to expose to the company the execution 
of her feet. Her partner, who might have been 
one of the interlopers at the door, was under full 
speed of locomotion, and rattled away with his feet 
with wonderful dexterity. His arms were thrown 
carelessly behind liis back, and secured, as they 
crossed, the points of his scrape, that still held its 
place upon his shoulders. Neither had he doffed his 
" sombrero,^' but just as he stood when gazing from 
the crowd, he had placed himself upon the floor. 

The conclusion of this performance gave us an 
opportunity to edge our way along towards the ex- 
tremity of the room, where a door communicated 
with an inner apartment. Here we placed ourselves, 
to witness in a more favorable position the amuse- 
ments of the evening. The room was about fifty 
feet in length, and twenty wide, modestly furnished, 
and its sides crowded with smiling faces. Upon the 
floor were accommodated the children and Indian 
girls, who, close under the vigilance of their parents 
and mistresses, took part in the scene. The musi- 
cians again commencing a lively tune, one of the 
managers approached the nearest female, and, clap- 
ping his hands in accompaniment to the music, 
succeeded in bringing her into the centre of the 
room. Here she remained a while, gently tapping 
with her feet upon the floor, and then giving two 
or three whirls, skipped away to her seat. Another 
was clapped out, and another, till the manager had 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 65 

passed the compliment throughout the room. This 
is called a son, and there is a custom among the 
men, when a dancer proves particularly attractive 
to any one, to place his hat upon her head, while 
she stands thus in the middle of the room, which 
she retains until redeemed by its owner, with some 
trifling present. During the performance of the 
dances, three or four male voices occasionally take 
part in the music, and towards the end of the even- 
ing, from repeated applications of aguardiente, they 
become quite boisterous and discordant. 

The waltz w^as now introduced, and ten or a dozen 
couple whirled gaily around the room, and height- 
ened the charms of the dance by the introduction 
of numerous and interesting figures. Between the 
dances refreshments were handed to the ladies, 
whilst in an adjoining apartment, a table was pre- 
pared for the males, who partook without ceremony. 
The most interesting of all their dances is the con- 
tra danza, and this, also, may be considered the most 
graceful. Its figures are intricate, and in connec- 
tion with the waltz, form a charming combination. 
These fandangos usually hold out till daylight, and 
at intervals the people at the door are permitted to 
introduce their jarabes and jotas. 

Gale and myself retired early, and in the morn- 
ing hastened to the beach. Ten days had now 
elapsed since our departure from St. Pedro, and we 
were at last ready for sea. The launch was hoisted 
in, the ship unmoored, and the day appointed for 
our departure, which was to be the following. 



66 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 



CHAPTER A\ 

Departure for San Francisco. — Farallones Islands. —Yerba 
Buena. — Coniandante. — The Presidio. — Journey to Santa 
Clara. — Mission of Dolores. — Rancho de las Pulgas.— Mission 
of Santa Clara.— San Francisco.— Departure for Monterey 
and Santa Barbara.— Journey to San Pedro.— Ride by Moon- 
light.— Tiburcio Tapia. 

AT noon the Commandant made his appearance 
on board with the ship's roll, and we got under 
way, and stood out of the bay till well clear of the 
shoal, off Point Loma, w^here we hauled to the wind, 
and stood off to the west. Unfavorable weather 
carried us much out of our course, and it was with 
difficulty that we could make a northerly direction, 
so that twenty-two days elapsed ere we had obtained 
our point of latitude. Finally, we saw the rocks 
called the Farallones, bearing northeast, distant 
from us eight or nine miles. We soon passed the 
largest and southernmost one, which was still occu- 
pied by the Russians ; and could distinctly perceive 
among the huts ten or twelve persons, who were 
living there for the purpose of catching fur seal, 
w^hich were so abundant in former years, that my 
friend Gale assured me he had assisted in collect- 
ing during one season, over eighty thousand skins 
from this same island. Four or five hours more 
brought us to the entrance of the port of St. Fran- 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 67 

Cisco, but as it was then quite dark, I could not dis- 
cern the appearance of the land. As we passed the 
castle point, the water became less acted upon by 
the ocean's swell, and the only ripple, visible, was 
caused by the course of our ship, as she drew near 
her place of anchorage. Leaving the Presidio on 
our right, we continued our course for Yerba Buena, 
where we came to, in six and a half fathoms. 

When morning came, I found we were in a small 
bay, close to the shore; on one side of which were 
steep rocks, and on the other a smooth sand}- beach. 
Outside of us was the island of Yerba Buena, and 
beyond this, on the other side of the bay of St. 
Francisco, the highlands of St. Antonio. At ten 
o'clock we were visited by the Commandant, Don 
Ignacio Martinez, who remained to dine ; a Mexi- 
can by birth, though more of a Spaniard in feeling. 
In his conversation, it would have been difficult for 
a stranger to designate his nation, for having 
learned a few words in English, Russian, and 
French, he had formed a jargon which no one could 
understand but himself. As soon as dinner was 
over, we accompanied him to his house. It was a 
short ride over the hill, in the direction of the 
■Castillo, or fort. We soon caught a glimpse of the 
low buildings, with their dark tiled roofs, resembling 
prisons more than dwelling houses, and the resi- 
dence of our Commandant was the most conspicu- 
ous amongst them. This was the Presidio. In its 
plan, it is similar to those already described, but is 
in a most ruinous state. There are a few framed 
houses scattered about outside the square, and a 



68 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

short distance beyond, upon the extreme point of 
the little bay, is the fort, which, on account of its 
elevated position, is used as a " look-out place." 

In the morning, Gale went to the Mission of 
Dolores to visit the padre, and engage horses for our 
contemplated journey to Santa Clara, and returned 
on board in the afternoon. On the following day, 
at an early hour, our animals were on the beach, in 
charge of a vaquero, who was sent to accompany us 
as guide in the journey. This was an accommoda- 
tion universal with all the good old friars, for which 
they accepted no compensation. We mounted 
speedily, and commenced our route through a dense 
thicket, where the path was narrow, and where the 
trees so intersected their branches, as to endanger 
our heads as we rode along. Thus we went on ; 
sometimes crossing little valleys, w^here the fox-like 
coyote prowled, and sometimes rising sandy emi- 
nences, where a glimpse was had of the neighboring 
bay. Through the woods resounded the wolfs howl, 
and the heavy track of the grizzly bear lay printed 
in our course. At length, through an opening in 
the woods, we saw the Mission of Dolores. Its dilapi- 
dated walls, and dark tiled roof, well accorded with 
the bleak and cheerless scenery with which it was 
surrounded ; for the cold, blustering sea winds, as 
they sweep over the hills, chill and destroy vegeta- 
tion. As we approached the building, we saw in 
the long corridor the old friar and his mayordoino, 
to whom he appeared to be giving some directions, 
for the latter, hat in hand, attentively listened. 
Some Indians were employed in throwing out hides 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 69 

from one end of the building, and he was evidently 
giving orders for their transportation to the beach. 
" Como les van amigos ? pasanvmds.^^ — " How are you, 
friends ? walk in," he shouted, at the top of his voice, 
as we entered the hospitable mission, and his ex- 
tended hand was warmly closed on mine, in earnest 
of the sincerity of his invitation. 

After a short conversation we remounted our 
horses and proceeded on our route for Sta. Clara. 
The first two or three leagues of the journey were 
over a succession of hills and small valleys, where 
the strong westerly gales came with such force that 
the progress of our horses was somewhat impeded, 
in consequence of the violent effect of the wind on 
the large leather trappings attached to our saddle- 
gear. We passed on the road a large inclosure, 
called El potrero, used for the rearing of horses, the 
walls of which were of loose stones, piled up to the 
height of about four feet. 

Passing this, we opened upon the grazing grounds 
of the Mission, where thousands of cattle were scat- 
tered about in herds. On our right, the land was 
elevated, and as it continued in the distance, its top 
was covered with pines. To the left, lay the smooth 
and spacious bay, extending in a southeast direc- 
tion, full thirty miles from the ship's place of 
anchorage, bounded on the opposite side by the 
highlands of St. Leandro and St. Jos^. Our ride 
was charming, and now and then a distant farm- 
house, or Indian hut, with its little garden, would 
come in sight; and numerous rivulets winding 
their way towards the bay, adding much to the 



70 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

picturesqueness of the scene. A few leagues brought 
us to the sheep-farm of St. Mateo, situated in the 
midst of a small wood. The building, occupied by 
the mayordomo and servants, is spacious and cov- 
ered with burnt tiles. Here we alighted, and, after 
a short rest, remounted and resumed our journey. 
" El Rcmcho de las pulgas " was the next place of 
any importance in our route, and is situated a little 
retired from the road, at the foot of a small rising 
ground. It is the property of Dona Soled ad Ortega, 
widow of Don Luis Arguello, formerly governor of 
California. I found her a beautiful w^oman, and 
the mother of three or four fine children. She was 
very lady-like in her manner, and treated us with 
the utmost courtesy. After dinner, we bade her 
adieu, and again proceeded on our way, which was 
uninterrupted, till, far distant in the centre of a 
spacious plain, we beheld Santa Clara and its nu- 
merous buildings. 

It was three o'clock when we arrived at this Mis- 
sion, having performed the journey of eighteen 
leagues in about eight hours. Father Jose Viader 
was director of the establishment; a good old man, 
whose heart and soul w^ere in proportion to his im- 
mense figure. This institution w^as founded in the 
year 1777, and formerly stood a few rods beyond its 
present location. Like the other Missions in the 
neighborhood of St. Francisco, its resources were 
immense, from the annual production of grain ; and, 
possessing large stocks of cattle, it w^as enabled to 
make liberal ^' matmizas,^' of which, the abundant 
proceeds were usually heaped up, under the corridor 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 71 

in the square of the main building. A large 
garden of choice fruit-trees adorned its right, whilst 
another of greater magnitude occupied a space in 
front. The hills of St. Jos^ were visible beyond, 
and betwixt the trees that covered the plain we ob- 
tained a distant view of the town of that name. 

Our stay of several weeks in the neighborhood 
gave ample time for observation, and I had various 
opportunities to visit among the inhabitants, from 
whom I received great kindness and hospitality. 
Business required several trips to and from the ship, 
which were performed sometimes on horseback, and 
sometimes by means of a launch belonging to the 
Mission of Dolores. The latter mode of conveyance 
was preferable by far, and the more expeditious 
when aided by the tides, which here rise and fall 
some five or six feet. 

San Francisco has one of the largest and most 
valuable harbors in the world. Nature has so de- 
fended its narrow entrance, that with but little ex- 
pense it might be made perfectly impregnable. Its 
steep and lofty cliffs, on either side, combined with 
other prominent locations within, might be so forti- 
fied as to bid defiance to the most powerful and 
determined foe. The soundings are deep, and, in 
mid-channel, may be found in from forty to forty- 
five fathoms. The course for vessels coming in 
from sea, is generally midway between the bluff" 
points of land. 

There are five missionary establishments located 
upon the sides of the bay, called the Missions of 
Dolores, Santa Clara, St. Jose, St. Francisco Solano, 



72 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

and St. Rafael. These have a population of over 
five thousand Indians, and only about two hundred 
whites. The whole number of cattle, domesticated, 
is more than forty thousand, exclusive of horses, 
mules, and sheep. The rivers and creeks are sup- 
plied with an abundance of salmon and other fish ; 
game is plentiful, and bears, wildcats, w^olves, and 
coyotes, are often met with. On the northern side 
of the bay are found the American elk and antelope, 
and great quantities of deer; the first of these is 
hunted for its tallow, which is preferred to that 
taken from bullocks. The islands and neighboring 
lands afford abundance of wood and timber. The 
soil is excellent, and perhaps in no part of the world 
more yielding, particularly for wheat; as an in- 
stance of it? immense fertility in this respect, the 
following circumstance was related to me by the 
mayordomo of the mission of San Jose. Eight 
fanegas, equal to twelve bushels of wheat, were 
sowed, which yielded twelve hundred fanegas or 
eighteen hundred bushels ; the following year, from 
the grain which fell at the time of the first harvest, 
over one thousand bushels were reaped ; and again 
in the succeeding year three hundred bushels. The 
average production of wheat is one hundred fanegas 
for one sowed. In many parts of the country irri- 
gation is necessary, but here, owing to the heavy 
dews which fall at night, the earth becomes suf- 
ficiently moistened for cultivation. 

Having accomplished our business for the present 
at St. Francisco, we got under way and proceeded 
along the coast to Monterey. During the night a 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 73 

strong current swept us down below Point Pinos, so 
that we did not arrive till the third day after our 
departure. We found at Monterey two new comers ; 
an American schooner from the Sandwich Islands, 
and a Mexican vessel belonging to Don Jose de la 
Guerra y Noriega, late ^^ dipidado^^ to Mexico, who 
had just returned after an absence of two years. He 
brought with him, as passengers, two American 
gentlemen * who had received large grants of land 
from the general government, and had come to the 
country for the purpose of making arrangements for 
colonization. 

Remaining here but a short time, we continued 
our voyage to Santa Barbara, where we arrived after 
a protracted passage ; the same strong current from 
the north having carried the ship a second time 
beyond her port of destination. Here we left the 
ship for a short excursion across the country, pro- 
posing to meet her again at St. Pedro, and starting 
early in the morning, arrived about noon at the 
mission of St. Buenaventura, where we remained till 
evening, and then resumed our journey upon the 
same horses. A fine moon had risen just as we set 
out, and so brilliantly was the whole country 
lighted up, that our w^ay lay before us as clearly as 
at noonday. The clear heavens ; the bright moon ; 
the beautiful country stretching far away into the 
blue distance, and basking in the moonlight ; the 
deep silence, unbroken save by the footfalls of our 
horses, or the cries of some wild night-bird ; all 
formed a scene of such rare beauty, that the im- 

* Abel Stearns, of Massachusetts, and Mr. Peck. 



74 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

pression still lingers in my memory. At midnight 
we reached the "Rancho de Simi," some fourteen 
leagues from the Mission. The good people who 
inhabited this lonely spot we found were fast locked 
in sleep, so that we were obliged to take up our 
quarters upon the ground, in the open air. The 
"mochillas'' and " armas^^ attached to our saddle 
gear were spread for a bed, to secure our bodies 
against the dampness of the earth, whilst our 
" serapes " served as coverlets, and our saddles as 
pillows. We slept soundly in spite of the rudeness 
of our beds, and awaking at daylight much re- 
freshed, pushed on for Los Angeles, which we 
reached at noon. We stopped at the house of Don 
Tiburcio Tapia, the ^^ Alcalde Const itucmial " of the 
town, once a soldier in very moderate circumstances, 
but who by honest and industrious labor had 
amassed so much of this world's goods, as to make 
him one of the wealthiest inhabitants of the place. 
His strict integrity gave him credit to any amount, 
so that he was the principal merchant, and the only 
native one in El Pueblo de los Angeles. A short 
ride brought us to the beach at St. Pedro, where we 
embarked for St. Diego. The ship was soon under 
sail, and forty-eight hours' run brought us to our 
place of anchorage. 

The consequent bustle of disembarkation com- 
menced. The hides were landed, tallow bags white- 
washed, ship smoked, and every thing again 
prepared for her departure. During her trip to the 
northward I was to remain a resident at St. Diego, 
and quantities of goods were landed, and a store 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 75 

fitted up in the house of the mother of our old friend 
Don Manuel Dominguez. The day for the ship's 
departure arrived. I bade adieu to Gale, and pro- 
ceeded to take charge of my future occupation and 
residence. 



76 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA, 



CHAPTER VI. 

Residence in St. Diego. — Practice of Medicine. — Evening's 
Amusements.— Pastores. — La Noche Buena. — Insurrection 
in the North.— Departure of Echeandia and his Troops.— 
Defeat of the Rebels.—" Hide Park."— Hide Stealing.— Em- 
barkation.— Pueblo de San Jose.— Its Inhabitants. — Mission 
de San Jose.— Padre Narciso Duran. — Perilous Adventure 
in a Boat.— Sailing out of San Francisco.— Journey from 
Monterey to Santa Barbara. — Buena Vista. — La Soledad. — 
San Antonio. — San Miguel. — Hot Springs.— Santa Marga- 
rita.— St. Luis Obispo.— Guadaloupe.—Matanzas.— A Chance 
Shot. — Landing Cargo at Santa Barbara. — New Residence 
on Shore. 

THE family in which I now resided at St. Diego 
consisted of the old lady Dominguez, Don Jose 
Antonio Estudillo and his wife, Dona Victoria, with 
two children, and three servants. My first week's 
residence proved rather dull, and I found it neces- 
sary to make frequent hunting excursions in the 
neighborhood, with an occosional ride to our depot 
at " Hide Park," in order to wear away the time, 
and break up the monotony of our little village. 

My new lodgings unfortunately had no direct 
communication with the street, except by a small 
window, so that my customers were compelled to 
pass through the sala and a sleeping apartment, ere 
they could get access to my place of business. On 
the third or fourth night I was aroused by a rap at the 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 77 

little window and requested by an old woman to go 
with her and prescribe for her daughter, who was 
taken suddenly ill and was suffering most violent 
pain. Fearful of exposing myself to the night air and 
endangering the safety of the property under my 
charge through such indiscretion, I concluded not 
to accompany her, but advised her to give her 
daughter a few drops of laudanum. She then left 
me, but on the following morning returned to ex- 
press her thanks for the wonderful cure I had so 
accidentall}^ performed. This was enough to estab- 
lish my fame as a medico or physician throughout 
the town, and had I been so inclined I might (by 
providing the medicine) have become quite a pro- 
ficient in the art of killing. 

There are no physicians in the country, and every 
foreigner is supposed to possess some knowledge of 
the practice of medicine. I recollect a circumstance 
which will serve to illustrate the fact. One of our 
sailors, who had absconded from the ship at one of 
the neighboring ports, found his way to Santa Bar- 
bara and set himself up as a doctor. It was not dif- 
ficult to impose upon the poor credulous creatures of 
the lower class, and thus he managed to get as much 
liquor as he wanted during his stay by administer- 
ing his remedies in '^ aguardiente^^ (brandy), of which 
he partook freely, himself, to prove their simplicity. 

In a short time I became acquainted with many 
of the inhabitants of the place, whose frequent visits 
to the house established between us a familiarity 
which resulted in many a pleasant pastime. Senor 
Lugo was one who nightly made his appearance, 



78 LIFE IX CALIFORXIA. 

and amused us by his stories and eccentricities. 
One evening he came prepared to play off a practi- 
cal joke upon me. He had loaded a paper cigar 
with gunpowder and placed it among his cigarros. 
During his visit he repeatedly asked me to smoke, but 
I fortunately missed the one he had prepared, until 
finally, from the lateness of the hour, he withdrew. 
In the course of the night, after retiring, he awoke, 
and feeling a desire to smoke, selected from his bun- 
dle, quite forgetful of the evening's amusement, the 
very cigar he had prepared for me. Having lighted 
it, he returned to bed and extended himself by the 
side of his fair esposa. The cigar was about half 
consumed and he more than half asleep, when a 
sudden explosion carried away the better part of 
his moustache, and so thoroughly frightened his 
poor wife, that I venture to say the event will never 
be forgotten. 

Don Jos^ Antonio was equalh^ amusing in his 
character, and was ever on the alert seeking for 
some new device for my gratification. It was nearly 
time for the religious festival of " la noclie buena,^^ 
and he directed the customar}^ exhibition of the 
" pastor es.'^ They were rehearsing night after night, 
till at length Christmas arrived, and I had an op- 
portunity of beholding the ceremony of midnight 
mass and the subsequent performances. 

At an early hour illuminations commenced, fire- 
works were set off, and all was rejoicing. The 
church bells rang merrily, and long before the time 
of mass the pathways leading to the Presidio were 
enlivened by crowds hurrying to devotion. I ac- 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. /H 

companied Don Jose Antonio, who procured for me 
a stand where I could see distinctly everything that 
took place. The mass commenced, Padre Vicente 
de Oliva officiated, and at the conclusion of the 
mysterious " sacrificio'' he produced a small image 
representing the infant Saviour, which he held in 
his hands for all who chose to approach and kiss. 
After this, the tinkling of the guitar was heard 
without, the body of the church was cleared, and 
immediately commenced the harmonious sounds of 
a choir of voices. The characters entered in proces- 
sion, adorned with appropriate costume, and bearing 
banners. There were six females representing shep- 
herdesses, three men and a boy. One of the men 
personated Lucifer, one a hermit, and the other Bar- 
tolo, a lazy vagabond, whilst the boy represented 
the archangel Gabriel. The story of their perform- 
ance is partially drawn from the Bible, and com- 
mences with the angel's appearance to the shep- 
herds, his account of the birth of our Saviour, and 
exhortation to them to repair to the scene of the 
manger. Lucifer appears among them, and en- 
deavors to prevent the prosecution of their jour- 
ney. His influence and temptations are about 
to succeed, when Gabriel again appears and frus- 
trates their effect. A dialogue is then carried on of 
considerable length relative to the attributes of the 
Deity, which ends in the submission of Satan. The 
whole is interspersed with songs and incidents that 
seem better adapted to the stage than the church. 
For several days this theatrical representation is 
exhibited at the principal houses, and the perform- 



80 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

ers at the conclusion of the play are entertained 
with refreshments. The boys take an enthusiastic 
part in the performance, and follow about from 
house to house, perfectly enraptured with the com- 
icalities of the hermit and Bartolo. 

About this time the general received information 
of an insurrection in the north, headed by a person 
named Soliz. The town of Monterey had surren- 
dered to his forces, the garrison having been sur- 
prised during the night and overpowered without 
the shedding of blood ; and he was now on his way 
south to cope with Echeandia. Accordingly, the 
busy preparations for war commenced. Old rusty 
guns were repaired, hacked swords were sharpened, 
rude lanoes made, and all the force that could be 
mustered was soon on its way to meet the enemy. 

At the commencement of this revolution, there 
were in the hands of the commissary about three 
thousand dollars, which were seized upon by Soliz. 
A contribution also was levied upon the inhabitants 
for the support of the new government. Their 
manifesto declared that they only contended for 
their rights ; that they would not interfere with 
foreigners, nor in any way interrupt the commercial 
interests of the country. Soliz was elected Presi- 
dent, and had under his command over one hundred 
well-armed men. This was considered a powerful 
force for California, and it was generally believed 
that Echeandia would have considerable difficulty 
in quelling the disturbance. 

Several weeks elapsed ere we received information 
of the success of the government party. They had 



LIFP: in CALIFORNIA. 81 

defeated the rebels, and the ringleaders were taken 
to St. Bias. An old friar of the Mission of St. Luis 
Obispo was charged Avith having aided the insur- 
gents, and after undergoing a strict examination be- 
fore the general and his officers, he was embarked 
on board a merchant ship and sent out of the countr3\ 

The population of St. Diego being somewhat re- 
duced in consequence of the departure of the troops, 
the town w^as dull in the extreme, so that I was 
compelled to make daily use of my fowling-piece, 
and resort with greater frequency, to the scene of hide 
curing at " Hide Park." On one of my visits, I was 
informed by our officer in charge, that for several 
days he had missed hides from the number put to 
soak ; that the night previous he got up in conse- 
quence of some unusual noise among the dogs, and 
seizing his gun, sallied forth to discover the cause. 
He soon perceived a dark object moving along, a 
little above the surface of the water, at which he 
immediately fired. It dropped at once, and a tall 
figure sprang from the water to the shore, and 
rushed from the beach by one of the pathways 
leading to the hills. It was an Indian, who had 
swam to the hides, and having succeeded in ab- 
stracting one of them, was returning to the shore 
with it upon his head. In this way he had stolen 
about a dozen, Avhich were subsequently found 
secreted among the bushes. 

During the absence of friend Gale, I had re- 
ceived from him but two letters, which were of a date 
prior to his leaving Santa Barbara for the north, so 
that I had no specified time to look for his return ; 



82 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

but, at length, after an absence of three months, tlie 
ship was reported in the offing, and to my great joy, 
she soon appeared coming round Point Loma. I 
immediately started for the beach, and putting- 
spurs to my horse, reached our barraca just as she 
came to, when a boat was dispatched to convey me 
on board. I found as passengers in the ship several 
of the officers who were liberated at Monterey, in 
consequence of the success of Echeandia. The ship 
had made a fortunate trip, and had gathered nearly 
enough hides to make a homeward cargo, and only 
one visit more to the north was to be made ere she 
would leave for the United States. This was grati- 
fying to the crew, and to all concerned, and the 
labor of discharging went on so briskly, that soon 
everything was in readiness for our departure. The 
store was abandoned, the goods unsold re-embarked, 
and again we made sail for the port of St. Francisco. 
A tedious passage of twenty-one days brought us 
to the place of anchorage at Yerba Buena, where we 
found several American vessels, and a large Russian 
ship from Sitka, which had come for a cargo of wheat 
and beef-fat. The next morning after our arrival, 1 
took an early ride to the Mission of St. Clara, and 
from thence, after dinner, visited the Pueblo de San 
Jose, about three miles distant. The road, which is 
level and shaded on each side by large and stately 
trees, is called the "Alameda." It is frequented 
generally on the Sabbath or feast days, when all the 
town repair to the church at Santa Clara. On a 
Sunday may be seen hundreds of persons, of both 
sexes, gaily attired in silks and satins, mounted on 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. Oo 

their finest horses, and proceeding leisurely up the 
road. No carriages are used, and, of course, the 
scene is divested of all the pomp and splendor which 
accompanies church-going in the larger places of the 
republic, yet, in one respect it excels them all, 
that is, in the display of female beauty. No part 
of Mexico can show so large a share of bright 
eyes, fine teeth, fair proportions, and beautiful 
complexions. 

The town of St. Jose consists of about one hundred 
houses; it has a church, court-house, and jail. Its 
civil authorities are an Alcalde, two Regidores, &c., 
as in the town of Los Angeles, at the south. Their 
decisions in important law cases are subject to the 
confirmation of the Comandante General, ere they 
can be acted upon. In all capital ofi'ences, the de- 
linquents, after an investigation of their cases by 
the Alcalde, are sent to the supreme government, 
unless the arbitrary general sees proper to take upon 
himself the execution of the law, which has been 
the case in some few instances. 

Many little gardens of fruit trees are attached to 
the houses, also some fine fields, where are raised 
large quantities of wheat and corn. A small stream 
of water supplies the means of irrigation, and serves 
as the power to a profitable grist-mill. The men 
are generally indolent, and addicted to many vices, 
caring little for the welfare of their children, who, 
like themselves, grow up unworthy members of so- 
ciety. Yet, with vice so prevalent amongst the men, 
the female portion of the community, it is worthy 
of remark, do not seem to have felt its influence, 



84 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

and perhaps there are few places in the world, 
where, in proportion to the number of inhabitants, 
can be found more chastity, industrious habits, and 
correct deportment, than among the women of this 
place. This observation may be applied to the 
country, generally ; which is rather surprising when 
we consider the w^ant of distinction observed be- 
tween those of virtuous and immoral habits : for it 
is not unusual to see at public assemblages the 
most perfect familiarity between the two classes. 
This often misleads strangers, who form, in conse- 
quence, incorrect opinions. In time, when the 
country becomes more settled, a necessary distinc- 
tion will prevail among the various classes ; and 
society will be found more select, as in places of 
greater civilization. Their adherence to the faithful 
observances of the church, as in all Catholic coun- 
tries, is truly firm; and the most trifling deviation 
from its commands is looked upon with abhorrence. 
The extreme veneration shown towards the holy 
teachers of their religion, and the wonderful influ- 
ence exercised by them, even in the affairs of their 
every-day life, may account for any virtue they 
may exhibit. The friar's knowledge of the world, 
and his superior education, give him a station far 
above the unenlightened state of the laity, and place 
him in a sphere to inculcate good or disseminate 
evil. Fortunately, however, for the country, the 
original founders of Christianity in California were 
truly pious, excellent men, and their successors, 
generally, have endeavored to sustain their honora- 
ble character. 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 85 

Commerce is very limited, being confined to only 
four or five merchants in the place, who are princi- 
pally foreigners, so that my business here was soon 
accomplished ; but ere returning to the ship, I con- 
cluded to ride to the Mission of San Jose about ten 
leagues from the town. My guide took the lead, 
and we galloped along, over a grassy plain, till we 
reached the banks of quite a large river. It was 
deep, and rapid, and I felt somewhat reluctant to 
follow my companion, who plunged in, regardless 
of danger, and w^as soon on the opposite side. See- 
ing that I had not kept behind him, he returned to 
encourage, and show me how to proceed. Our horses 
simultaneously stepped in, and I was soon in the 
middle of the stream, with my legs crossed above 
the saddle, for the water in some places was so deep 
from recent rains, that our steeds were obliged to 
swim. Having succeeded in reaching the opposite 
bank in safety, although pretty thoroughly wetted, 
we resumed our gallop, till we came to a cluster of' 
hills, where the road was somewhat miry, from the 
continued flow of a neighboring hot spring. The 
Mission was situated a little beyond this, and, as we 
reached the summit of the last hill, we saw dis- 
tinctly its long buildings, and singular church. 

The padre was at home when we arrived, and 
immediately ordered chocolate and refreshments. 
This was father Narciso Duran, a venerable, old 
man, who had spent the most valuable part of his 
life, in incessant labor, to promote the advancement 
of his holy religion. Generous, kind and benevo- 
lent, the natives not only revered him, as their spir- 



86 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

itual father and friend, but seemed almost to adore 
him. He was universally beloved, and the neigh- 
boring village bore testimony to his charitable 
heart, while many a transient traveller blessed him, 
and thanked God, that such a man existed among 
them. 

The Mission of San Jose was founded in 1707 
and had, at this time, a population of about two 
thousand Indians. It possesses some of the best 
lands in the country for agricultural purposes, from 
which is obtained an immense quantity of grain. 
It frequently supplies the Russian company, w^ho 
yearly send three or four large ships lor stores for 
their northern settlements. In the rear of the es- 
tablishment, is a large reservoir of excellent water, 
which is carried, through pipes, to the gardens, and 
other parts of the Mission. In front of the church 
is a very neat fountain, and also conveniences for 
washing and bathing. In point of beauty, the 
buildings here were very inferior to those of the 
southern missions. Durability and convenience 
alone, seem to have been consulted in their con- 
struction, and they mostly presented a very ordi- 
nary appearance. 

Time passed swiftly during my stay with the old 
friar, and I left him with regret. It was late in the 
day, and the sky was clouded; yet fearing no dan- 
ger from a storm, off I galloped to the landing- 
place, where I embarked in a small boat, with four 
Indians to row me to the ship. Arriving at the 
mouth of the creek, we tarried there until the tide 
had risen, to take advantage of the entire ebb, and 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 87 

to put off as soon as the water slackened. The wind 
blew fresh from the southeast, the rain drizzled, and 
everything foretold a disagreeable night. However, 
we pushed off; but by the time we had reached the 
middle of the bay, the rain increased, and darkness 
closed around us. As the wind was favorable, we 
rigged the boat-hook for a mast, and taking the 
blanket of one of the Indians for a sail, we in this 
way proceeded admirably; but my oarsmen soon 
stretched themselves in the bottom of the boat, 
leaving me to accomplish the voyage under my own 
management. Unable to perceive any object be- 
yond the boat's head, and without a compass, I was 
obliged to steer by the wind, and trust to the chance 
of its steadiness. In this dilemma, I remained for 
some hours in extreme doubt as to my whereabouts, 
often imagining I felt a gradual increase of the 
swell, which betokened an approach to the sea. At 
last, I caught a glimpse of the land. This gave me 
encouragement to proceed, and though ignorant of 
the localities of the place, yet presuming this to be 
the "Mission Point," I bore away for the ship's 
anchorage. A few minutes of great anxiety passed, 
when a sudden shock fully determined the fact. 
Our boat had struck the vessel amidships, luckily 
however without sufficient force to do us injury. 
The Indians, supposing we had struck a rock, started 
up in terror, but how great was their surprise, when 
on looking up, they beheld the side of our noble 
ship. The night-watch assisted us in securing the 
boat alongside, and I speedily ascended to the deck. 
We had been four hours performing a distance of 



88 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

thirty miles, with a fair wind and favorable current. 
Had we been so unfortunate as to have missed the 
ship, we must have been carried out to sea, which 
would most probably have been the last of us, ^ut 
something better, or worse, was reserved for our 
destiny. 

A few days, only, passed ere we were once more, 
and for the last time, on our way to the port of 
Monterey. As we beat along down from the an- 
chorage to " Castle Point," the breeze gradually died 
away, and when we reached the very entrance, and 
narrowest portion of the bay, it ceased entirely, 
leaving us to the force of the stream, the strength 
of which in the centre of the channel is from four to 
six knots an hour. On both sides are very strong 
eddies, and the junction of the waters from the 
northern and southern basins forms a multitude of 
whirlpools of such strength that vessels when be- 
calmed are frequently driven by them upon the 
rocks. In such cases one or two boats in advance of 
the ship, to keep her in range with the current, is of 
the utmost importance. After passing the low point 
south of " Whaler's Harbor," where maybe seen a 
few rocks, no danger need be apprehended of strik- 
ing the northern shore, for the course of the current 
will take every thing clear of the rocks, and the 
soundings are deep. AVe passed so near with our 
ship, of 'four hundred tons, that I could have jumped 
upon the projecting points. Five miles outside of 
the castle, the soundings lessen considerably, and 
good anchorage may be found in from five to ten 
fathoms. Here we came to, and waited for a breeze, 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 89 

as there is danger along the shore at the south of 
the port, unless the vessel has a good offing, for the 
swell sets directly upon the land. We did not wait 
long. The sea breeze soon set in, we continued our 
course, and the next morning found us busily em- 
ployed at Monterey. 

Having progressed thus far on our voyage, it was 
necessary to make arrangements for the disem- 
barkation and storage of our cargo remaining unsold- 
Santa Barbara, on account of its central situation 
and quiet character of its population, was deter- 
mined upon as the most suitable location, but it 
was necessary to ascertain if a building could be 
procured of sufficient capacity. For this reason I 
was obliged to proceed thither with all possible 
haste. Gale accompanying me as far as the Mission 
of La Soledad. 

It was about nine o'clock in the morning when 
we started, and a few leagues of pleasant riding, 
mostly through dense woods, brought us to Buena 
Vista, the farm of Don Mariano Estrada. Here we 
alighted, and found the old gentleman at dinner. 
He had just commenced and was tasting '' la tasa 
de caldo" a bowl of soup. His invitation to partake 
of his cheer we accepted, and seated ourselves at the 
table. We found him rather a lover of good eating, 
and, indeed, one would suppose that this remark 
might apply to all Californians, for the lowest per- 
sonage must have his three or four different dishes. 
Their oUa, azados, guisados, and frijoles, are found 
at every board. Dinner concluded, we took leave 
of Buena Vista and continued our journey. Our 



90 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

road was quite level the whole distance, and wound 
along the base of a long range of hills, which run 
parallel with the sea-coast. A river flowed through 
the valley, emptying into the bay of Monterey, upon 
the bank of which was a farm-house belonging to 
the Mission of Carmelo ; this, and a few small huts 
scattered in our route, were the only buildings we 
passed in our ride. It was near sundown when we 
arrived and dismounted at the door of La Soledad. 
The gloomiest, bleakest, and most abject-looking 
spot in all California ! 

This mission was founded in 1791 ; and, although 
it presents a very unpromising aspect to the trav- 
eller from the gloominess of its exterior, its interior 
exhibits a striking contrast. A pious old man con- 
trols its concerns, and pours out to his guests with 
free hospitality the abundance thereof. His chari- 
ties, his goodness, and meekness of character are pro- 
verbial ; and to have known the old Padre Seria was 
a happiness indeed. For many years he was Prefect 
of the Missions, and still exercised this function 
while attending to the spiritual, as well as the 
temporal affairs of his own establishment. In the 
kindness of his heart, he gave me a letter of intro- 
duction to the priests of the other Missions, request- 
ing their assistance and hospitality during my 
journey. 

The next day I took leave of Gale and set out 
for the Mission of St. Antonio, ten leagues distant 
from La Soledad. A vaquero accompanied me as 
guide. We travelled slowly, owing to our miserable 
horses, and the almost impracticable state of the 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 91 

road which in many places extended across the 
mountains in narrow pathways, and was so ob- 
structed with rocks, that I was obliged every few 
moments to dismount and walk. Thus we toiled 
on ; and in this way we performed the greater part 
of our journey until we arrived at the top of the 
mountains and began to descend on the other side. 
The descent was so gradual that we put our horses 
to the gallop without danger or fear of their stum- 
bling. This soon brought us to the neat little Mis- 
sion of St. Antonio, which was the first mark of 
civilization we had met with during the ride. It is 
built of brick, with an arched corridor similar to the 
other missions, and was established in the year 
1771. Padre Pedro Cabot, the present missionary 
director, I found to be a fine, noble-looking man, 
whose manner and whole deportment would have 
led one to suppose he had been bred in the courts 
of Europe, rather than in the cloister. Everything 
was in the most perfect order ; the Indians cleanly 
and well dressed, the apartments tidy, the work- 
shops, granaries, and store-houses comfortable and 
in good keeping. Whilst taking chocolate, my host 
sent for the vaquero who was to accompany me in 
the next day's journey, to give him some instruc- 
tions ; and I took occasion to slip out after him, to 
urge the procuring of good horses, and the neces- 
sity of having them ready at early dawn. Soon 
after supper I retired to my quarters, and having 
arranged everything for an early start, getting my 
saddle, luggage, &c., conveniently together, sprang 
into bed, closed my eyes, and slept till aroused by a 



92 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

rap at the door and a voice calling " Senor ! Senor ! 
it is daybreak." As I went forth the light was just 
peeping over the eastern hills, and our horses stood 
impatient!}^ pawing the ground in the courtyard. 
I sprang into the saddle, and hastened our depart- 
ure ; for I intended to perform, if possible, a two 
day's moderate journey in the next twelve hours. 

Our horses were excellent; and we galloped 
briskly over a smooth and level road for several 
leagues, without checking their speed, except to ford 
a small river, or ascend a few hills in the vicinity 
of the Mission of St. Miguel. From the tops of these 
we saw spread out before us a charming valley, 
through which our course lay. It was near mid- 
day when we descended the last hill, and rode up 
to the house. Father Juan Cabot, its director, was 
absent, having gone to pass a few days with the 
padre of St. Luis Obispo. So I repaired to the 
mayordomo, presented my letter, and requested im- 
mediate despatch. As it was necessary to send some 
distance for his horses, the delay of a couple of 
hours, ere they were procured, gave me ample time 
to look about the Mission. Like that of St. Antonio, 
it possessed few resources, owing to its distance from 
the sea-coast, and the moderate extent of its do- 
mains. It was founded in the year 1797 ; and is 
built near the extremity of a small pass through the 
hill, where the sun casts its burning heat in a degree 
almost insufferable. They say there, in proof of the 
warmth of the Mission, that the fleas cannot endure 
the summer months, and during the heat of the 
day may be seen gasping upon the brick pavements ! 



LIFP: in CALIFORNIA. 93 

At the distance of about five leagues is a beautiful 
little bay called St. Simeon. Its anchorage is safe^ 
and well protected from the winds, j^et it is seldom 
visited by navigators. 

Having already ridden fourteen leagues, I felt 
little inclined to extend my journey further, for my 
whole frame seemed as if it had undergone a severe 
pummelling, but ambitious to achieve my morning's 
undertaking, I again set off, following close at the 
heels of my guide. Shortly after our departure we 
reached a place where a sulphurous hot spring boiled 
up from the ground, and formed a little rivulet 
which crossed the road. Father Juan had erected 
a small house over the spot for the purpose of shel- 
ter, and convenience for bathing, and it was resorted 
to by many persons, suffering with rheumatic dis- 
orders, who generally obtained immediate relief. 
We afterwards stopped at the sheep farm belonging 
to the Mission of St. Miguel, where were two large 
houses and a number of straw huts. Gardens were 
attached to them, in which a variety of vegetables 
were cultivated by the Indians, who were there as 
keepers of eight or ten thousand sheep. Some dis- 
tance off, on the other side of the valley, was a vine- 
yard of excellent grapes, from which were annually 
made considerable quantities of wine and brandy. 
Further on, some three or four leagues, we reached 
" el rancho de Santa Margarita," a place used for 
the cultivation of grain, where, on an eminence that 
overlooked the grounds, an extensive building was 
erected. It was divided into store-rooms for differ- 
ent kinds of grain, and apartments for the accommo- 



94 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

dation of the mayordomo, servants, and wayfarers. 
At one end was a chapel, and snug lodging-rooms 
for the priest, who, I was informed, frequently came 
and passed some weeks at the place during the time 
of harvest ; and the holy friars of the two missions 
occasionally met there to acknowledge to each other 
their sins. 

Here our horses were changed, and a smart gallop 
through forests of pine and oak, brought us soon to 
the ascent of a rough-looking hill, called ^'la cuesta 
de St. Luis:' 

Notwithstanding its rugged appearance, we easily 
surmounted it, and arrived at the Mission of St. 
Luis Obispo, situated just beyond it. The sun was 
yet high above the hills, and we had journeyed, 
since morning, over eighty miles. I was of course 
much fatigued, and as the Padres Joaquin Jimeno 
and Cabot were taking a walk in the gardens, I had 
a short time for repose ere they returned. The for- 
mer of these was a young man, of not more than 
twenty-four years of age, born in Mexico, from 
whence he had recentl}^ come, and was now mission- 
ary of St. Luis Obispo. The other. Father Cabot, 
was a native of Spain, and brother to Father Pedro 
Cabot of St. Antonio, but as unlike him in character 
and appearance as he could possibly have been. 
He was a tall, robust man of over fifty years, with 
the rough frankness of a hardy sailor, differing 
widely from the soft and pleasing manners of his 
brother, and celebrated for his good-humor and 
hospitality. 

This Mission, though formerly a wealthy estab- 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 95 

lishment, is now of little importance. The build- 
ings are in a decayed state, and every thing about 
them appears to have been much neglected. It is 
surrounded by high and rocky hills, the soil of 
which bears the appearance of containing ore of 
some kind. In the vicinity are to be found the 
peculiar indications of gold and silver mines. 
Within a short ride is the harbor of St. Luis, where, 
in former years, during the monopoly of the Span- 
ish government, the old friars sometimes secretly 
purchased goods of the American trading ships. 
The Mission possesses excellent horses, and a great 
many good mules; but, owing to want of attention, 
many of them are permitted to stray away, and mix 
with the wild cattle of the mountains. 

The next morning, I started at daybreak with an 
oxcellent vaquero and fine horses. The road con- 
tinued along the Mission valley for some distance, 
when it suddenly changed its course for the hills, 
and, passing over their woody summits, descended , 
to the sea-coast, and opened upon a smooth, sandy 
beach, that extended for miles to the south. Here 
we raced along at a rapid rate, full three leagues, 
till it was necessary to strike off for the interior, 
through numerous sand-hills. Passing these, we 
reached an extensive plain, in the midst of which 
lay the cattle farm of " La Purissima," called 
*' Guadaloupe." 

We found the Indians busy at their annual 
" matanzas " or cattle killing. Numbers of the poor 
animals lay stretched upon the ground, already 
slaughtered ; others, just suffering under the knife 



96 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

of the butcher, whilst, in a spacious enclosure, hun- 
dreds were crowded for selection. The vaqueros, 
mounted on splendid horses and stationed at its 
entrance, performed by far the most important part 
of the labor. When the mayor domio pointed out 
the animal to be seized, instantly a lasso whirled 
through the air, and fell with dextrous precision 
upon the horns of the ill-fated beast. The horse, 
accustomed to the motion, turned as the lasso 
descended, and dragged him to slaughter. Another 
lasso was then thrown, which entrapped his hind 
leg, and threw him prostrate on the ground. In this 
position he was dispatched, and the horsemen re- 
turned for another. Sometimes it happened that 
one would escape and make off for the fields, pur- 
sued by the vaqueros, who, as they rode close in 
full chase, swung their lassos above their heads, and 
threw them upon the animal's horns and neck, giv- 
ing their well-trained horses a sudden check, which 
brought him tumbling to the earth ; or some one of 
the more expert would seize upon him by the tail, 
and, putting spurs to his horse, urge him suddenly 
forward, overthrowing the bull in this manner. 

Leaving Guadaloupe, we continued on for several 
leagues through the plain, then across a range of 
elevated hills, arriving at La Purissima before 
twelve o'clock ; thus accomplishing the distance of 
fifty-four miles in seven hours. I made arrange- 
ments for our horses, and we started immediately 
after dinner for " St. Ynes," where we arrived in 
about three hours. Padre Bias was alone, and 
could not accommodate me with horses till the fol- 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 97 

lowing morning ; but ambitious to extend tlie ride 
to Santa Barbara, I prevailed upon my " Purissima" 
guide to take me to the other side of the mountain. 
Our horses held out very well till we reached its 
base, but here began to fag a little, and with great 
difficulty bore us up the ascent, so that it was quite 
late when we reached a small hut. Being com- 
pletely exhausted, I halted here for the night, and 
in the morning proceeded to Santa Barbara, where 
every thing succeeded as I wished. Within two 
days after my arrival I had made arrangements for 
the purchase of a spacious building, and was on my 
way back to Monterey. 

I had been absent but nine dscys when I arrived 
there, and dismounted at the house of friend Cooper. 
In an enclosure in the rear, a party of hunters were 
practising target-shooting with rifles, and appeared 
to have had considerable sport. A tall, gigantic 
Kentuckian, named Galbraith, was retiring from 
tlie scene as I entered, with extravagant boastings 
of his superior skill. When dinner was over, they 
gaily resumed their amusement, and Gale and 
myself were invited to take part in the sport. The 
mark was a small, square piece of paper, of the size 
of a dollar, secured to a board by a pin through its 
centre. I took my stand at forty paces, fired, and a 
loud shout followed. The mark was hit! My ball 
had struck the pin fairly upon its head, and driven 
it through the board. My triumph, however, 
seemed to create no little jealousy on the part of our 
Kentuckian, who challenged me to a second trial. 
But this w^as enough for me ; a chance shot had 



98 LIFE IN CALIFOKNIA. 

gained my victory, and I had no idea of losing my 
credit by a second attempt, particularly with a per- 
son who amused himself daily by shooting off the 
heads of little ^'chcnates^' (blackbirds) at the dis- 
tance of twenty paces. 

In the course of a week we got under way and 
sailed for Santa Barbara, where we arrived safe, 
and immediately commenced landing our cargo. 
Many of our packages were bulky, and it required 
considerable care to get them through the surf with- 
out damage ; and owing to the distance of the ship 
from the shore, and the rough state of the beach at 
times, a fortnight elapsed ere everything was dis- 
embarked. At length the last load w^as deposited 
in the house, and the men were employed in getting 
on board wood and water ; this having been accom- 
plished, the ship made sail, and stood out of tlie 
bay, on her wa}^ to St. Diego, where she was to take 
in her home cargo. The breeze was fair, and a few 
hours carried her beyond the reach of our glasses. 

So, now I was a resident again on shore — a 
" comer ciante de Santa Barbara." My house was a 
building of one story, containing one large room 
some fifty feet square, and four smaller ones. Tlie 
large one was filled to the roof with bales and boxes, 
leaving a narrow passage only for communication 
with the other apartments, which were differently 
occupied. One of these was fitted up with shelves 
and a counter, serving as a show-room, and another 
I had transformed into a bed-chamber. I slept in 
a cot suspended from the cross-beams of the roof; 
and, besides the necessary furniture of chairs, tables, 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 99 

looking-glass, &c., I had, displayed against the wall, 
two old muskets neAvly briglitened up, two pairs of 
pistols, and a very terrific sword. The sight of 
these appalling instruments was ample security 
against the rogues, who were generally lounging 
about the door, leading from the corridor to the 
street. I had but one companion, a servant,* who 
had lived for many j^ears in my father's house, 
and had followed me in my wanderings. Poor 
David ! he was a good, honest fellow, officiating in 
many capacities, and often remaining in sole charge 
of a valuable amount of property ; but he was fated 
to meet a watery grave a few years aferwards, in 
crossing the passage from Santa Barbara to St. 
Buenaventura. 

The house united with that of my friend Daniel 
Hill, whose immediate vicinity I found of great 
convenience, for we took our meals together ; and 
he was often of much assistance to me in matters of 
business. In fact, Daniel was a sort oi factotum for 
the whole town, and was carpenter, or mason by 
turns, as his services were wanted ; for his natural 
ingenuity made him useful in either capacity. For 
our better security, I made some additions to the 
house, which needed also some rejDairs and paint- 
ing, so Daniel's aid was required. A large cook- 
house was built in the rear, surrounded by a high 
wall of brick, and the windows at the end of the 
liouse were barricaded. David attended to the 
painting, and very soon we had the best-looking 
establishment in the place. 

* David Harrison. 



100 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

While our arrangements were going on, Gale 
was at St. Diego with the ship, superintending the 
stowing of the cargo. I had several letters from 
him, one of which informed me of the arrival, from 
St. Bias, of the ship Harriet, Captain Fitch, whose 
elopement, and flight with his betrothed, 1 have 
mentioned in a previous chapter. His wife, whom 
he had married immediately on his arrival at Lima, 
he had brought with him. Don Jos^ Maria Padres, 
the new Inspector General, was passenger with his 
family, besides over fifty prisoners, who had been 
sent by the Mexican government ; making another 
Botany Bay of the fair fields of California. Padres 
expected to have found there the new Governor, 
Don Manuel A^ictoria, who was on his way, by land, 
from Lower California, and who, it was reported, 
would again close the ports against foreign flags. 

Gale, who had been complaining for some time 
of ill health, was resolved to return home in the 
Brookline, to obtain medical advice, and had notified 
me of the determination, that I might be prepared, 
on his arrival, to remain alone in charge of the 
business. A few days after, the ship was seen in the 
offing. As soon as she came to, Gale landed and 
came up to the house. She had put into St. Pedro 
on her way up, and more hides had been embarked, 
which were to be cured. The old house at St. 
Diego had been taken down, and brought up to be 
erected at Santa Barbara. The carpenter immedi- 
ately commenced operations, in laying vats, &c., 
so that in a few days the same busy scene of hide 
salting was going on here that had been so long in 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 101 

process at St. Diego. At last, the hides being all 
cured and embarked, the day arrived for the ship's 
departure. With a heavy heart, and swimming 
eyes, I took leave of Gale, the officers, and all 
hope of seeing my home, my " native land " again 
for years. 



102 LIFE IX CALIFORNIA. 



CHAPTER VII. 

Mass at Santa Barbara.— Yankee Ingenuitj'.— Riding: in Cali- 
fornia.— An Indian Game. — Temescal.— Secularization of the 
Missions.— A New General for California.— Fire on the 
Mountains.— Execution of two Indians.— Sulphurous Spring. 
—A Launch. — A New Companion. — Choyas.— A Bear and 
Bull Bait.— Padre Luis and his Comical English.— David 
Douglass, Esq. — St. Juan Bautista. — Padre Arroyo. — A 
Night with the Fleas. — A Californian Farm-House. — A 
Priest's Travelling Carriage.— An Indian Festival. 

THE shij) had gone, and a bright Sunday morn- 
ing succeeded her departure. The bells were 
already ringing their first call to mass, when Daniel 
appeared, busily employed in making ready his 
wagon for a ride to the Mission. We had but time 
to snatch a hasty breakfast, for Father Antonio, 
being of delicate constitution, could not suffer a 
long detention from his chocolate, and until Mass 
had been said, he was forbidden to partake of any 
nourishment whatever. In consequence, the whole 
population was in motion as early as sunrise, on 
their way to the church. At Daniel's invitation I 
accompanied him, and jumping into the vehicle, I 
seated myself by his side, and off we started. 

Our wagon, once a handcart, through the inge- 
nuity of Daniel had been converted to its present 
use, and was one of the many specimens of his clev- 
erness. He had put springs to it, and contrived it 



LIFE IN CALIFOENIA. 103 

that it might be drawn by one or two horses, with 
accommodations for four passengers. Several Jersey 
wagons accompanied us on the road, and one very 
fine-looking barouche, but none of them went off 
with the spirit of our own. The others were drawn 
mostly by mules, led along by a person on horse- 
back, making rather a ludicrous appearance in 
comparison with the free movement of our carriages 
at home. 

The distance being short, we soon arrived at the 
Mission, and after securing our horse to the railing 
of the corridor, we ascended the steps into the pri- 
vate apartment of the priest. Padre Antonio had 
retired for the purpose of preparing for the Mass, 
but we found a number of the chief men of the 
town, and officers of the army, seated around in 
familiar conversation. Among them were the 
Comandante, Pacheco, dressed in full uniform, Don 
Jose de la Guerra, a retired veteran, dressed in citi- 
zen's clothes, with two gold epaulettes, and Lieuten- 
ant Antonio Maria Del Valle, a little dried-up piece 
of vanity, who made up in boastful words what he 
lacked in physical proportions. I was a stranger to 
the party, and received a formal introduction to the 
two first mentioned. The seats were all occupied, 
and I saw no place for me to sit, but by lifting from 
the sofa the hat of Del Valle, which I handed to that 
august personage, and squeezed myself in by his 
side. This was sufficient to w^ound his pride, and 
call forth a demonstration of his dissatisfaction; 
but perceiving I paid no attention to his indigna- 
tion, his rage began to increase, when the tolling of 



104 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

the bell, announcing the commencement of the cer- 
emony, put an end to the scene, and we passed into 
the church to take part in the devotion. After Mass 
we again repaired to the apartment of Padre Anto- 
nio, where breakfast had been prepared, and served 
upon a long table. All were kindly invited to par- 
take, but as Daniel and I had already breakfasted, 
we declined, and taking our leave, returned home. 

As we rode along we had an excellent opportu- 
nity of seeing the different varieties of riding, com- 
mon in the country. The universal mode of 
travelling, with both males and females, is on 
horseback; the latter generally ride with a person 
behind them, who guides the horse. In this way 
many were returning from the Mission. Now and 
then we passed a poor broken-down horse with 
three lazy vagabonds astride him, who unfeelingly 
beat and spurred him onward. A few old men 
came trotting along, who from their firm manner 
of riding with their legs clinging to the sides of 
their horses, seemed almost to have grown to them. 
More amusing still,we saw many children of not more 
than three or four years of age, two or three together 
on one horse, who appeared as secure in their seats 
as the old men who lived all their lives in the sad- 
dle. The young commence thus early their lessons 
in horsemanship, and when despatched by their 
parents on some errand, the two more expert riders 
seat the youngest between them, and go tearing 
across the country without the least apprehension, 
not unfrequently with a bullock's hide dragging 
over the ground behind them. Both young and old 



LIFE IX CALIFORNIA. 105 

are passionately fond of riding, and rarely go from 
one house to another, no matter how short the dis- 
tance, except on horseback. Many take their meals 
in the saddle, and the poor animal is fortunate if he 
gets either food or drink till late at night, when his 
master quits his back for his bed and retires to 
repose. 

I sat down at my door on my return, to enjoy the 
following lively scene. In the front of the house 
was a large square, where the Indians assembled on 
Sunday afternoons, to indulge in their favorite 
sports and pursue their chief amusement — gam- 
bling. Hero numbers were gathered together in 
little knots, who appeared engaged in angry conver- 
sation; they were adjusting, as Daniel informed me, 
the boundary lines for the two parties who were to 
play that afternoon at ball, and were thus occupied 
till dinner time. When I returned from dinner 
they had already commenced, and at least two or 
three hundred Indians of both sexes were engaged 
in the game. It was the " Presidio " against the 
" Mission." They played with a small ball of hard 
wood, which, when hit, would bound with tremen- 
dous force without striking the ground for two or 
three hundred yards. Great excitement prevailed, 
and immense exertion was manifested on both sides, 
so that it was not till late in the afternoon that the 
game was decided in favor of the Indians of the 
Presidio. 

Many of the Indians retired afterwards to the en- 
joyment of their Temescal or hot air baths, w^hich is 
their usual resort after fatigue, and is tlie sovereign 



106 LIFE IX CALIFORNIA. 

remedy for nearly all their diseases. A round hovel 
or oven of mud is built, generally, over an excava- 
tion in the ground. An opening is left in the roof 
for the escape of the smoke, and one at the side for 
entrance. As many persons as it can conveniently 
hold, enter, and make a fire close to the door on the 
inside. They continue to add fuel to the flame till 
they can no longer bear the intense heat, which 
throws them into a profuse perspiration. Thor- 
oughly exhausted, they crawl forth from the hut, 
and plunge themselves headlong into the nearest 
stream. I have frequently seen the old men lying 
about on the floor of the oven apparently bereft of 
ail their strength, whilst some of the younger persons 
enjoyed it, and sang and laughed under its influence. 
The women also frequently make use of these baths, 
repeating them till their diseases are cured. 

A few weeks passed away, and we received intelli- 
gence of the arrival of the ship Harriet at Monterey. 
The captain had been arrested by order of General 
Echeandia, and was separated from his wife for hav- 
ing dared to break through the required formalities 
attached to the marrying of foreigners. The}^ were 
to be thus separated until their arrival at the Mis- 
sion of St. Gabriel, where the missionary president 
resided. Here, after complying with the requisi- 
tions of the church, they were to be remarried. It is 
uncertain whether the cause of so much trouble 
and annoyance to Fitch originated in the special 
care of the ecclesiastical functionary for the fair Cal- 
ifornian, or was the consequence of the open viola- 
tion of the law. Perhaps the j^arents may have 



LIFE IX CALIFOllXIA. 107 

been dissatisfied with the elopement, and for their 
better satisfaction had solicited the interference of 
the constituted authorities. 

Rumors had been circulated for some days past 
that the soldiers and convicts meditated a revolt, in 
order to rob and murder the foreign residents. A 
plan was devised by some Mazatlan troops, who 
came to guard the convicts. — Base cut-throats and 
villains ! they would have carried it into execution 
had they supposed themselves sufficiently strong. — 
Hardly a day transpired without seeing them re- 
turning from the beach at evening, with their black 
silk handkerchiefs as banners ! emblematical of the 
blackness of their intentions. — On one occasion, 
while celebrating the glorious 16th of September, 
the annual celebration of their independence, the 
principal demonstrations of joy were confined to the 
square of the Garrison.— The figure of a "gachupin " 
or Spaniard, was hung in effigy, and as the valiant 
''Mazatecos'' let off their rockets they cried "Death, 
to the Spaniards and foreigners." The" Comandante," 
though particularhj friendly with two respectable old 
Spaniards (the only ones in Santa Barbara), and ex- 
tremely partial to the foreigners, yet was beheld in 
the midst of the crowd, as if foremost among the 
revelers. 

The American residents were all well armed, and 
ready to unite on the first alarm. A large church 
bell, which had been suspended from, one of the 
cross-beams of my store-room, was by agreement 
intended to announce the least appearance of treach- 
ery, for, as here lay the greatest temptation, un- 



108 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

doubtedly here would have been the first point of 
attack. 

The new Inspector, Jose Maria Padres, pretending 
to take much interest in bettering the condition of 
the natives, soon commenced a work of destruction? 
under the name of reform. The act for the secular- 
ization of the Missions, passed by the Mexican Con- 
gress on the 13th September, 1813, was now put in 
force, and, through the ready compliance of Eche- 
andia, partially carried into effect. In some of the 
Missions the Indians abandoned their labor, and, 
when chastised, insulted the priests. These flourish- 
ing institutions, as they had been, were in danger 
of immediate subversion and ruin. Through the 
encouragement of Echeandia, vice of all kinds had 
become prevalent, and the poor misguided Indians 
saw m the terms libre and independente a sort of 
license for the indulgence of every passion. But, 
fortunately for the country, at this crisis the new 
General, Don Manuel Victoria, arrived at Santa Bar- 
bara, on the 10th of January, 1831, on his way to the 
seat of government at Monterey. 

Senor Victoria was a tall, lean, half Indian kind of 
person, with sufficient resolution and courage to 
constitute him, in his own opinion, a legion amongst 
this unsophisticated race of Californians. He came 
unattended, and required no ceremonious reception. 
As soon as he received the command from Echean- 
dia, hisfirst step was to counteract the ruinous effects 
of the imprudence of his predecessor, and to restore 
the Missions to their former state. Echeandia re- 
tired to St. Diego ; and Padres to St. Francisco, 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 109 

where he remained some time, sowing seeds of dis- 
cord and discontent among the inhabitants, till 
ordered to Santa Barbara, where he was put on 
board a vessel for St. Bias. 

About this time we were much alarmed, in con- 
sequence of the burning of the woods upon the 
mountains. For several daj^s the smoke had been 
seen to rise from the distant hills of St. Buenaven- 
tura, and gradually approach the town. At last it 
had reached the confines of the settlement, and en- 
dangered the fields of grain, and gardens. Soon it 
spread low upon the hills, and notwithstanding a 
strong westerly wind was blowing, the flames 
travelled swiftly to windward, consuming every- 
thing in their course. It was late at night when 
they reached the rear of the town, and as they furi- 
ously wreathed upwards, the sight was magnificent, 
but terrible. The wind blew directly upon the 
town, and the large cinders that fell in every direc- 
tion seemed to threaten us with certain destruction- 
The air was too hot to breathe. The inhabitants 
fled from their homes to the beach, or sought the 
house of Sefior Noriega, where prayers were off'ered 
and the saints supplicated. The vessels at anchor 
in the bay were also much endangered, for their 
decks were literally covered with the burning cin- 
ders, and their crews incessantly employed in keep- 
ing them wet. During the entire night the ravages 
of the fire continued, and when daylight broke it 
had seized upon the vineyard belonging to the 
Mission. Here the green state of vegetation 
somewhat checked its progress, and it passed over 



110 LIFP: in CALIFORNIA. 

to the mountains again, to pursue its course north- 
ward. On the uplands every thing was destroyed, 
and, for months afterwards, the bare and blackened 
hills marked the course of the devastating element. 

The character of our new Governor soon began 
to reveal itself, in the execution of his determined 
spirit to do justice. Two Indians, who had been 
convicted of cattle stealing, were, by his orders, pub- 
licly shot in the Presidio of Monterey; thus effectu- 
ally putting a stop to robberies of all kinds. But 
an act so rash and hasty was likely to destroy his 
popularity, and materially injure his career in 
California, although the result was so beneficial to 
the community. The act was unconstitutional, and 
served, among the discontented spirits of the 
country, to hasten the revolution, the germ of which 
Padrt^s had left behind him. 

A few leagues from Santa Barbara is a hot spring, 
where the inhabitants resort in some cases of disease. 
I accompanied a few friends to the place, one of 
whom was desirous of proving its efficacy in curing 
rheumatism. We rode across the little settlement 
of Montecito, and soon came to a rough and narrow 
passage leading to the mountains, which we as- 
cended till the path became so intricate that it was 
impossible to proceed further on horseback ; so dis- 
mounting and securing our horses, we walked to the 
spring, where the waters were boiling up with much 
force. The place was very rocky, and the stream 
had Avashed away the earth, forming numerous 
cavities sufficiently large to contain one person. 
These were filled with water of different tempera- 



LIFE IX CALIFORNIA. Ill 

tures, varying according to the distance from the 
source of the sj^ring, which in some places was so 
hot that I could not bear my hand in it. There are 
a few shanties on the spot for the accommodation 
of families, who frequently pass several days there 
during the summer months. After bathing, we re- 
turned home to the town, much enervated from the 
peculiar character of the waters. 

A launch was to take place at St. Pedro, of the 
second vessel ever constructed in California. She 
was a schooner of about sixty tons, that had been 
entirely framed at St. Gabriel and fitted for subse- 
quent completion at St. Pedro. Every piece of tim- 
ber had been hewn and fitted thirty miles from the 
place, and brought down to the beach upon carts. 
She was called " Guadaloupe," in honor of the patron 
saint of Mexico ; and as the affair was considered 
quite an important era in the history of the coun- 
try, many wxre invited from far aifdnear to witness 
it. Her builder was a Yankee, named Joseph 
Chapman, who had* served his apprenticeship with 
a Boston boat-builder. He was one of the crew on 
board the piratical cruiser that attacked Monterey, 
at which time he was taken prisoner, and had lived 
in the country ever since. From his long residence, 
he had acquired a mongrel language; English, 
Spanish, and Indian being so intermingled in his 
speech, that it was difficult to understand him. 
Although illiterate, his great ingenuity and honest 
deportment had acquired for him the esteem of the 
Californians, and a connection in marriage \y,th 
one of the first families of the countrv. Father 



112 LIFE IX CALIFOKXIA. 

Sanchez, of St. Gabriel, used to say that Chapman 
could get more work out of the Indians in his unin- 
telligible tongue than all the mayordomos put to- 
gether. I was present on one occasion, when he 
wished to despatch an Indian to the beach, at St. 
Pedro, with his ox-wagon, charging him to return 
as soon as possible. His directions ran somewhat 
in this manner. *' Ventura ! vamos / trae los bueyes 
go down to the Playa, and come back as quick as 
you can jyuedc.'^ 

I visited St. Diego about this time, stopping on 
the route at St. Pedro. My companion was Ferdi- 
nand Deppe, a fine gentlemanly fellow, a native of 
German3^, who was agent for a Mexican house, and 
was there conducting the business of the ship Har- 
riet. It being late in the day when we started, he 
proposed taking a short cut across the hills, which 
brought us into the midst of a large tract covered 
with choyas, or prickly pears. They had wounded 
my horse's legs severely, and he commenced plung- 
ing and jumping ; at every movement, adding to his 
own pains, and increasing my danger. After much 
trouble, we got clear of the abominable place, and I 
dismounted to overhaul and examine the extent of 
damage. My horse had sticking to the inner side 
of his thighs and legs a multitude of the heads of 
the choyas, which, with a stick, I prepared to re- 
move. At the very first effort I was rewarded by a 
presentation of both heels of the animal, which 
struck me just below the groin, and laid me pros- 
trate on the ground. Deppe was amazed, and be- 
lieved me killed, but a few moments convinced him 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 113 

of his mistake. I was considerably lamed, and 
having exchanged horses with him, we rode along 
slowly to the beach. The '' Harriet " lay at anchor, 
and the new schooner "Guadaloupe" had just left 
the inner harbor for the usual place of anchorage. 
Several days elapsed ere I could walk, and I ever 
after looked upon the choyas with an evil eye. 

No other incident worthy of notice occurred during 
my journey, and I returned to Santa Barbara, after 
a pleasant trip, in time to witness a bull and bear 
bait that was to take place at the Mission, the day 
following. 

Old Bruin was first, however, to be caught, and 
about a dozen vaqueros, with their mayordomo, 
started off to entrap him. On such occasions, a 
bright moonlight night was always selected, and 
their usual mode of securing him was as follows: 
In some remote spot which the bears most fre- 
quented, a bullock was slain and his carcass left 
exposed. At an early hour the Indians repaired to 
some neighboring concealment where they watched 
the bear's approach, which was announced by the 
howling of wolves, and the noise of immense num- 
bers of coyotes. He usually crept along suspiciously 
towards the bait, and while eagerly engaged in con- 
suming it, the Indians suddenly pounced upon him 
from their ambush, and with their lassos thrown 
around his neck, tumbled him to the ground. 
Oftentimes at the approach of his pursuers he would 
rise on his hind legs, prepared for defence, when 
the lassos were either broken or forced from the 
rider. The expert vaquero, however, generally sue- 



114 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

ceeded, and poor Bruin, foaming with rage, gagged, 
and secured with a dozen lassos, was drawn to the 
Mission; either upon a low, two-wheeled cart, or a 
large bullock's hide. 

Success had attended them on this occasion, and 
at sunrise a large grey bear was secured to a tree in 
front of the Mission. It was past noon when I rode 
up and dismounted to look at the poor condemned 
brute, who, almost exhausted with heat and rage, 
seemed hardly competent to the trial that awaited 
him. Persons were standing around, thrusting 
pointed sticks into his sides, till the madness of the 
infuriated animal knew no bounds. A sailor, rather 
the worse for " aguardiente,^^ reeled up to take part 
in the fun, and with his recklessness and wit added 
infinitely to the amusement. At length an unfor- 
tunate stagger brought him within reach of Bruin's 
paw, who seized him by the leg and drove his teeth 
quite through the calf. With extreme difficulty, 
they rescued him from his danger, and a skillful 
practitioner happening to be near, the wound was 
immediately sewed up. 

The time arrived for the sport to commence, and 
every one repaired to a large square, formed by the 
junction of the long corridor with a temporary 
fence of poles. The bear, still encumbered with his 
fastenings, was first brought in, and then the bull 
came plunging into the enclosure, as if a match for 
a dozen such opponents. A lasso was fastened to 
the hind leg of the bear, leaving his fore paws at 
liberty for defence, and connecting with one of the 
bull's fore legs, so contrived as to give them a scope 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 115 

of about twenty feet for manoeuvring. This being 
accomplished, the other fastenings were removed, 
and the two terrified creatures remained sole occu- 
pants of the square. The bull roared, pawed the 
earth, flung his head in the air, and at every move- 
ment of his opponent seemed inclined to escape, but 
the lasso checked his course, and brought them both 
wdth a sudden jerk to the ground. Bruin, careless 
of the scene around him, looked with indifference 
upon his enemy, seemingly too exhausted to bear 
the struggle, but the jerk of the lasso aroused him 
as if to a sense of danger, and he rose up on his 
hind legs, in the posture of defence. At this mo- 
ment, the bull rushed upon him, and with his sharp 
horns seemed to have gored him through ; but not 
so, for a mournful bellow told his situation. The 
bear had seized upon him by the nose, whilst his 
paws clung around his horns. A sudden exertion, 
however, liberated the bull from this embrace, and 
a second plunge drove his horns half way through 
his enemy's side, and tossed him high in the air, 
whence he fell powerless to the ground. One or two 
more successful attacks decided the fate of Bruin, 
and he was dragged from the arena, covered with 
numerous and ghastly wounds. The conflict in this 
case had been short, owing to the exhausted con- 
dition of the bear ; but on some occasions, it was 
continued even to the exhausting of a second bull ; 
this was rare, however, and more frequently a 
strong bull was able to cope with two such adversa- 
ries. 

On this occasion every body attended, as is cus- 



116 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

tomary in all their amusements, and men, women, 
and children took part in the discussions relative 
to the fight. Such exhibitions served for a topic of 
conversation amongst all classes for months after- 
wards, and the performance elicited as much ap- 
plause as is usually bestowed on the triumph of 
some great actor in the theatres of our own country. 
A slight misunderstanding in trade with one of 
the priests of San Francisco rendered it advisable 
that I should visit the north, and accordingly, hav- 
ing made all necessary arrangements, I was soon on 
my way for that quarter. Arriving at the Mission 
of St. Luis Obispo on the second day of my journey, 
how great was my surprise, on riding up to the cor- 
ridor, to be saluted by the Padre in my own lan- 
guage. " How do you do, sir ? Very good oysters, 
Mr. Fish ! come in ! May the devil skin you to 
make your mother a night-cap ! " The most out- 
rageous oaths rattled from his tongue with most 
amusing volubility. A t last, tired of his display in 
English, he abandoned it for a language more har- 
monious in sound, and in which he was more com- 
petent to converse. The mystery was soon solved. 
An eccentric old Scotchman, named Mulliken, had 
resided with him a number of years during his ad- 
ministration of the Mission of Santa Cruz, and had 
amused himself in his leisure moments by adding 
to the old friar's limited stock of English; who, 
poor man ! profoundly ignorant of the real meaning 
of his salutations, thought he had addressed me in 
the most civil and courteous manner! Father Luis 
had recently taken charge of this establishment. 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 117 

and Padre Jimeno had gone to the Mission of St. 
Luis Rey. Everything was in fine order, and the 
hospitality of the new director equalled that ever 
bestowed by his predecessor. Horses were furnished 
me on the morning following, and I continued my 
journey to Monterey. Three days afterwards, late 
at night and suffering with cold, I rode into the 
town. 

Soon after my arrival friend Deppe appeared as a 
visitor, and agreed to accompany me to the Missions 
of Santa Clara and St. Jos^, for the annual feast of 
the latter was to be celebrated soon with consider- 
able pomp, and he had much wished to witness a 
festival of the Indians. 

I found a new resident at Monterey — David 
Douglass, Esq., a naturalist from Scotland, who had 
been indefatigable in his researches throughout the 
northern regions of America, and was adding to his 
treasure the peculiar productions of California. I 
was told he would frequently go off, attended only 
by his little dog, and with rifle in hand search the 
wildest thicket in hopes of meeting a bear; yet the 
sight of a bullock grazing in an open field was to 
him more dreadful than all the terrors of the forest. 
He once told me that this was his only fear, little 
thinking what a fate was in reserve for him. He 
went afterwards from Monterey to the Sandwich 
Islands. One morning he was found at the bottom 
of a pit which had been prepared as a trap for wild 
bulls. It is supposed that from curiosity he had 
approached too near to get a sight of the furious 
animal that had been ensnared, and the earth giv- 



118 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

ing way, precipitated him below. The merciless 
brute had gored him to death. His faithful little 
dog was found near the spot, w^atching a basket of 
his collections. 

After two days' detention at Monterey I started 
off with Deppe on our way to St. Francisco. The 
commencement of the journey was along a sandy 
road, over numerous hills that gave us a fine view 
of the bay and shipping at anchor. Several scat- 
tered huts, grazing cattle, and now and then a deer 
enlivened the scene. A few leagues brought us to 
an extensive plain, which we crossed, and entered 
upon a narrow road leading, through a range of 
beautiful green hills, to the Mission of St. Juan 
Bautista. An alameda, or shaded walk, of some 
length, gave access to the establishment, on each 
side of which were gardens and cultivated fields. 

This Mission was founded in the year 1797, and 
had in 1831 a population of about twelve hundred 
civilized Indians. It is conveniently located in the 
centre of a valley, with an abundance of rich land 
and large stocks of cattle. Padre Felipe Arroyo 
was the missionary, whose infirm state of health 
kept him confined closely to his chamber. For 
amusement, when tired of study, he called in the 
children of the place and set them to dancing and 
playing their games. In his eccentric taste he had 
given them the names of all the renowned person- 
ages of antiquity, and Ciceros, Platos, and Alexan- 
ders were to be found in abundance. A particular 
regard for us procured fro'm the old gentleman a 
sleeping apartment adjoining his own, not usually 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 119 

bestowed upon travellers. When we retired, how- 
ever, we were surprised to find no sheets upon the 
bed, but in their stead, coarse blankets. Shut out 
from any means of access to the other parts of the 
building, except through the room of the Padre, it 
was impossible to remedy the deficiency. Our light 
was extinguished, and soon Deppe's nasal organs 
announced how deep was his repose ; but I lay rest- 
less and uneasy. I could not sleep; the blankets 
pricked my flesh, the room was warm, and at times 
it would seem as if a thousand needles penetrated 
my legs and sides. Can it be the blankets, thought 
I, or are they filled with fleas; and if so, how is it 
that Deppe sleeps so sound ? The more I reasoned, 
the more horrible became my situation, and I feared 
I was to become a martyr to never-ending tortures. 
They were fleas indeed ! and it appeared to me as if 
they came in armies to glut their appetites with 
human blood! It was terrifying! for I thought 
they would surely suck me dry before morning, and 
I jumped with horror from the bed to the floor. 
But it was like jumping " out of the frying-pan into 
the fire," for the floor was of tile, and the crevices 
their place of abode. I felt them jump upon my 
legs and feet, and reaching down my hand, I swept 
them off by dozens. The bed was least exposed on 
this account, so back I got, when a sudden twitch 
of Deppe's frame, and an extra snore, or snort, 
revealed his similar fate. Rolling about from side 
to side, he could suffer no longer in silence, but 
cried out "Carrambaf what de divil is in de bed?" 
^' Fleas!" said I, "ha! ha! fleas! and they will 



120 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

devour us before morning!" Thus the whole 
tedious night was passed in scratching and com- 
plaining till morning broke, when, worn out with 
fatigue and loss of sleep, we finally closed our eyes 
and slept till roused to chocolate. As we passed the 
old friar, on our way to the breakfast-room, his 
friendly inquiries were incessant. "Buenos diasf 
como pasaron vmds. la noche f " To which I would 
have frankly replied, but politeness forbade, and a 
shrug of the shoulders brought forth the feeble and 
laconic answer, " Bien! gracias/^^ 

The whole country is infested with fleas, and it is 
a rare thing to find a house without them, so that 
the natives have become accustomed to their bite, 
and think nothing of it. After this trial, I set my- 
self down as fit to compete with any native, and 
really thought, since passing such a night, I could 
bear as much as the thickest skinned among them. 

By the time we got through with our chocolate 
the horses were at the door, and we hastened to take 
leave of Padre Arroyo. The usual formalities of 
leave-taking having passed, we mounted and rode 
along with our vaquero on a pleasant gallop, till we 
had crossed the plain, when we came to a river, 
which had been concealed till now by the density 
of the trees. It was the River " Pajaro," which we 
were obliged to ford, and which, during the rainy 
season, becomes at times impassable. Having ac- 
complished this, we crossed several hills, and stopped 
at the house of a Yankee carpenter, who had been 
several years in the country, and had married a 
Californian wife — a clever, good-natured mechanic, 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 121 

whose only fault (that of intemperance) had pre- 
vented his advancement in life, and kept him, as 
he ever will be, in an embarrassed situation. His 
ingenuity had given him a wooden house, a novelty 
in California, and the chairs and tables bore testi- 
mony to his industr}^ His wife gave us some milk, 
with bread and cheese, of w^hich we partook, and 
continued on our route. From this place we rode 
through a flat, level country, of fifteen or twenty 
miles in extent, where, on each side, ranged high 
hills and mountains. These were covered with 
pines; and on the level below were thousands of 
scattered oaks. A flock of antelopes crossed our 
path as we rode along, and away they scampered for 
the mountains. These were the first I had seen in 
the country, as they are not numerous at the south. 
At length the highland ©n each side closed to a 
narrow passage, and w^e alighted at the farm-house 
of a Californian. 

As we rode up to the entrance, a score of dogs 
came rushing out, as if to annihilate us, but a gentle 
reproof from the master, who appeared at the door, 
called them off, and we entered. This cottage was 
built of sticks, covered over with mud, and the roof 
with " hrea " (pitch). There were but two apartments, 
and these were occupied with several neat and com- 
fortable beds. An elegance was displayed here which 
surprised me ; but afterwards, I learned that it was 
no uncommon thing to find laces and satins in the 
houses of the most need}^ All their food was 
cooked outside of the house, and a few paces in front 
stood a garden, where vegetables were raised. A 



122 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

few of the tamest of the farmer's cattle were grazing 
around the house, and several young calves were 
shut up in a small enclosure. Dinner was prepared 
for us — horses were proffered to assist us on the 
journey, and, as usual among these hospitable 
people, no recompense was required. 

It was growing late, and we started for the Mis- 
sion of Santa Clara, which is about twenty leagues 
distant from St. Juan. A short ride brought us to 
the " Pueblo de San Jos^," when we quickly passed 
up through the beautiful "Alameda," and stopped 
at the door of the Mission. 

Being the festival eve, many of the Indians were 
starting off in numbers ; and ere the sun had set, 
hundreds were upon the road for St. Josd Father 
Viader was to go in the morning, before breakfast, 
and, it being but a short ride, we concluded to re- 
main and accompany him. 

The morning presented the same lively scene of 
people going to the feast; and, at an early hour, the 
Padre's carriage was brought to the door. It was a 
singular contrivance, invented by himself, and built 
by the Indian mechanics under his direction — a 
narrow body, of suiSicient width for one person only, 
hung on a pair of low wheels; and the whole frame 
was covered with brown cotton. The seat, well 
stuffed with lambs' wool, served to compensate for 
the absence of springs ; and the harness, which he 
had made from green hide, twisted into rope, though 
not very ornamental, was sufficiently strong, and 
answered every purpose. 

All being in readiness, Pddre Viader got into his 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 123 

carriage. We mounted our horses, and off we 
started in grand equestrian order. The carriage 
was drawn by a fine black mule, astride of which 
sat a little Indian boy, who assisted in guiding the 
animal, in connection with a more experienced 
Indian, who, mounted on a fiery steed, led the mule 
with a reata fastened about his neck. On each side 
were two vaqueros, with lassos fixed to the axletree, 
by which they facilitated the movement of the car- 
riage over the road, and essentially aided the mule 
in ascending steep places. Three or four of the 
priest's pages attended him also ; and in the rear 
followed a number of Alcaldes of the Mission. All 
were attired for the occasion, and from their hats 
were flowing red and blue ribbons, which, like pen- 
nons, fluttered in the wind. 

A quick movement brought us to a view of the 
Mission from a neighboring rising ground, from 
whence we saw the gathering multitude ; and as we 
approached nearer, the bells of the church rang a 
merry peal, in honor to the priest, which continued 
until the two missionary brothers were fast locked 
in an embrace; when the ringing ceased, and we 
retired within. 

It is a prevailing custom at every town or mission 
in the country to give this demonstration of respect 
to the holy friar; and not unfrequently many of 
the inhabitants go out to meet him, and escort him 
to his quarters. This respectful observance to a 
priest rather provoked the jealousy of one of the 
Mexican governors, who, in a circular to this holy 
brotherhood, ordered that the bells should be rung 



124 LIFE IX CALIFORNIA. 

whenever he approached their Missions. The order 
was complied with, and has been observed to his 
successors down to the present day. 

Mass was soon commenced, and Padre Viader at 
the usual period of the ceremony ascended the pul- 
pit, and delivered an explanatory sermon relative 
to the celebration of the day. The music was well 
executed, for it had been practiced daily for more 
than two months under the particular supervision 
of Father Narciso Duran. The number of mu- 
sicians was about thirty ; the instruments performed 
upon were violins, flutes, trumpets, and drums; and 
so acute was the ear of the priest that he would 
detect a wrong note on the part of either instantly, 
and chide the erring performer. I have often seen 
the old gentleman, bareheaded, in the large square 
of the Mission beating time against one of the 
pillars of the corridor, whilst his music was in re- 
hearsal. 

After mass was concluded we passed out of the 
church to the priest's apartment through a shower 
of rockets, which were fired off incessantly in every 
direction. Dinner was served early to give us time 
to witness the performances of the Indians ; ^ and as 
there were many strangers at the Mission, a very 
lengthy table had been prepared, so as to accommo- 
date all. An abundance of good things appeared 
and disappeared, till at length the cloth was re- 
moved ; cigars were smoked, and the good old friars 
retired to enjoy their siesta, whilst we repaired to the 
front corridor to behold the fun. 

At a signal from their "Capitan," or chief, several 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 125 

Indians presented themselves at the corner of one of 
the streets of the " Rancheria " and gradually ap- 
proached towards us. They Avere dressed with 
feathers, and painted with red and black paint: 
looking like so many demons. There were several 
w^omen amongst them. Soon they formed a circle, 
and commenced w^hat they called dancing, which 
was one of the most ludicrous specimens of grotesque 
performance I had ever seen. It did not appear to 
me that they had any change of figure whatever; 
but fixed to one spot, they beat time with their feet 
to the singing of half a dozen persons who were 
seated upon the ground. When these had per- 
formed their part, they retired to an encampment 
beyond the building and another party appeared, 
painted and adorned rather differently from the 
former, whose mode of dancing, also, was quite dis- 
similar. They retired after a w^hile, and arrange- 
ments were made for a bear fight. Whilst these 
amusements were going on, the Padres had risen, 
and we were called to chocolate ; but the enthusi- 
asm of the Indians hardly gave us time to finish, 
when we heard them crying " Aqui traen el oso ! " 
("Here they bring the bear"). He was soon 
ready, though almost dead from confinement, 
and the bull made but a few plunges, ere he 
laid him stifl upon the ground. This part of the 
amusement concluded, Deppe and I walked to the 
encampment, where the Indians were dancing in 
groups, as we had seen them at the Mission. Around 
the large space which they occupied were little 
booths, displaying a variety of ornaments, seeds, 



126 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

and fruit. All was hilarity and good feeling; for 
the prudence of Father Narciso had forbidden the 
sale of liquor. At sundown the bells were rung — 
rockets were let off — guns were fired; and long 
after supper, at a late hour of the night, we could 
hear from our beds the continued shouts of the 
multitude. 

We returned safe to Santa Clara early on the fol- 
lowing morning, where I was to adjust with Father 
Viader the misunderstanding which had called me 
to the north. This required but a short explana- 
tion, for his good and yielding disposition set every 
thing to rights ; so I took leave of him and my 
friend Deppe, and departed for home. 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 127 



CHAPTER VIII. 

Interesting News. — Another Revolution. — Arrival of Gen. 
Victoria with Troops. — Defeat of Victoria. — His Expul- 
sion. — A new Government.— Pio Pico Governor. — Arrival 
of the banished Priests. — Opposition of the North to 
the South,— State of Santa Barbara.— A Good Joke.— Ruin- 
ous Condition of the Indians. — Sail ho ! 

ABOUT a month after my arrival, a ship came 
into port and anchored. It was the Har- 
riet; and soon friend Deppe and Captain Fitch 
made their appearance, coming up the street towards 
the house. As they drew near, Fitch held up a 
letter. Supposing it was merely a communication 
from some one residing in the country, I took no 
particular notice of it, until a closer glance revealed 
the well known writing of Gale ! " Give it to me ! 
when did you get it ? where is it from ? How do 
you do?" I cried in a breath. Snatching it from 
his hand, I tore it open, and found that it was dated 
but two days back, and my old friend Gale was at 
Monterey, with a new ship from Boston, called the 
California ! 

This was information so agreeable, that I was un- 
able to sleep much during the night, and at an early 
hour I arose. Whilst packing up some goods, to go 
on board the Harriet, the door suddenly opened, 
and the large, glass eyes of " Cuatro Ojos " struck 



128 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

full upon me. If it had been the bowsprit of his 
new ship, I could not have been more surprised; 
how^ever, we were soon seated together, and he ex- 
plained the cause of his sudden appearance. The 
General had unceremoniously taken leave of Mon- 
terey, and was on his w^ay down, to put a stop to 
some revolutionary movements that were in agita- 
tion at St. Diego. His abrupt departure prevented ' 
any satisfactory arrangement with Gale, and this 
was the reason why he had come to Santa Barbara. 
He came passenger in a whale ship, w^hose captain 
politely landed him on his way down the coast. 
The General had been some days on the road, and he 
was looked for, hourly. 

The following morning, I called upon the " Co- 
mandante'^ with Gale, from whom we ascertained 
that letters had been received from Victoria, giving 
information of his proximity, and that he would 
soon be here. It was near noon, when he came rid- 
ing slowly along the road to the Presidio. Twenty 
soldiers accompanied him, who were well armed 
and equipped for service. It was necessary to make 
application to him immediately, relative to business, 
so we repaired to his quarters, and had the good 
fortune to adjust every thing to our satisfaction. 

The brig Plant had sailed from Boston in com- 
pany with the ^' California," having been de- 
spatched by the owners to enable me to close up 
the interests of the Brooklyn voyage. By persua- 
sion of Gale, I accompanied him back, and left in- 
structions for the master, on his arrival, to proceed 
to Monterey. The same morning that w^e com- 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 129 

inenced our journey north, Victoria proceeded to 
the south. 

Upon our arrival at Monterey, immediate prepara- 
tions were made for the examination of the ship Cal- 
ifornia's cargo, and friend Cooper's house was selected 
as the most convenient location for deposite, as well 
as for security. The lighter portion of the cargo had 
been landed, and a few days more would have ac- 
complished its entire inspection, when an extraor- 
dinary courier arrived with the intelligence of the 
defeat of General Victoria, by the rebellious party. 

It seems that Victoria had placed implicit confi- 
dence in the faith of Don Pablo de Portilla, the 
" Comandante " at St. Diego, who had given him 
timely notice of the revolt, and had promised to co- 
operate with him in quelling the rebellion. For 
this reason, the General took with him but a few 
men; and, only in consequence of the repeated soli- 
citations of Pacheco, who had no faith in Portilla, 
would he consent to his going also, with a detach- 
ment of ten or a dozen more. 

On the 1st of December, 1831, a party of dis- 
affected persons assembled together, and declared in 
favor of the late commander. General Echeandia. 
Don Pablo Portilla was appointed commander of 
the rebels. The charges of tyranny, and the uncon- 
stitutionality of Victoria's proceedings relative to 
the shooting of the Indians at Monterey, were suffi- 
cient to increase the rebel party in great numbers, 
as they marched to the " Pueblo de los Angeles," 
where they arrived and took possession of the town. 
The "Alcade" was arrested, and with an additional 



130 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

force of more than one hundred men, making in all 
about two hundred, they advanced to meet Victoria, 
whose force was only thirty men. 

The parties met, and the action commenced. Vic- 
toria, in advance of his troop, called upon Portilla 
to surrender. But no! treachery said, never! the 
poor General was deceived, but he was determined 
to be revenged, and, rushing sword in hand upon 
the rebels, he shouted his little troop forward. 
Pacheco was instantly killed from a cowardly shot 
in the back. Victoria, with savage fury, dealt his 
blows around, till, exultingl}^ he sheathed his sword 
in the body of one bold rebel, and stretched him on 
the plain. The others fled in every direction, and 
Victoria, triumphant, marched his little troop 
through the town to the mission of St. Gabriel, 
where, in consequence of loss of blood from wounds 
which he had received, he came to a halt. The 
valorous party whom Victoria had defeated, again 
rallied, followed him to the Mission, and demanded 
his surrender. The poor, weak, wounded soldier ! 
they feared him even in his disabled state, and kept 
aloof, until he had sent them word that he was will- 
ing to resign the command, and return to Mexico. 
Faithfully, he kept his word ; though numerous se- 
cret solicitations came from the north for his return. 
Arrangements had been made for his embarkation 
at St. Diego, should he yield ; and every temptation 
was held out for him to join his faithful adherents 
at Monterey. But no ! he had passed his word ! and 
a retirement to the cloisters of Mexico was preferred 
to wreaking vengeance upon his enemies. He em- 



LIFE IX CALIFORNIA. 131 

barked for San Bias on board of the ship Pocahontas, 
in company with the Reverend Father Antonio 
Peyri, who, disgusted with the political changes in 
the country, had resigned his laborious duties as a 
missionary at the Mission of St. Luis Rey. I saw 
them both, only a few days previous to their de- 
parture, when the tear of regret coursed down the 
cheek of the good old friar, as he recalled to mind 
the once happy state of California. His great pene- 
tration of mind, led him to foresee the result of the 
new theory of liberty and equality, among a people 
where anarchy and confusion so generally pre- 
vailed, and who, at the time, were totally unpre- 
pared for, and incapable of self-government. He 
chose rather a retirement in poverty, than to wit- 
ness the destruction and ravage that from this time 
ensued. 

This state of things rendered it necessary for me 
to repair to Santa Barbara, to look after our inter- 
ests ; for we knew not what would be the result of this 
unfortunate change. The Plant had not arrived, 
and we were fearful that she might have been lost in 
the heavy gales off Cape Horn. 

The victorious party, now firmly established at 
*' Los Angeles," proceeded to form a new government, 
and the " Excelentisima Diputacion,^^ by virtue of an 
act of the Legislature, named its oldest Minister, 
Don Pio Pico, for Governor. Thus things were 
taking a pacific turn, when the news came, sud- 
denly, of another ^^ pronunciamiento " at the north, 
declaring a non-recognition of the "new Govern- 
ment " and its acts ! 



132 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

Now commenced the downfall of the Missions! 
Echeandia retreated to St. Juan Capistrano, where 
he sought the co-operation of the Indians. His 
promises of liberty and land were sufficient to entice 
all from their labors, and caused the subsequent 
abandonment of their former pursuits. Rapine, 
murder, and drunkenness were the result; and, in 
the midst, revelled the Mexican chieftain. 

About this period, the latter part of January, 
1832, a small brig entered the desolate Bay of St. 
Pedro, and anchored. On the succeeding morning, 
two passengers were landed on the barren strand, 
and there left with two bottles of water and one bis- 
cuit, wdtli nothing to protect them from the inclem- 
ency of the season. Here, more than thirty miles 
from any habitation, save a small hut two leagues 
off, they passed a sleepless night. The casual stroll 
of an idle Indian in search of shells, was the means 
of giving information to the Padre at St. Gabriel, 
where, through his kindness and sympathy, they 
found a cordial welcome. They were Messrs. Bach- 
elot and Short, two Catholic priests, who, in conse- 
quence of their unpopular religion, had been forced 
to leave the Sandwich Islands, notwithstanding 
their protestations against the arbitrary measure. 
All remonstrances were useless; they were insulted, 
driven on board, and the miserable craft was or- 
dered to get " under wa}^ " without delay. 

The ship California arrived from Monterey with 
Gale on board, who gave us intelligence of the de- 
parture of troops, under command of Don Augustin 
Zamorano. They were on their way down the coast, 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 133 

to oppose the lower party, and would rendezvous at 
this town. Santa Barbara is the central position 
in California, and holds the balance of power be- 
tween the north and south ; so that whatever side 
she favored, was sure to succeed. Thus she gen- 
erally remained neutral in political commotions, 
and acquired, in consequence, celebrity for her good 
and peaceable government. An old and experienced 
inhabitant, Senor Noriega, who had in earlier years 
filled the highest station in its political and military 
administration, still possessed a wonderful influence 
over his townsmen ; for nearly all had served under 
his command. His superior knowledge and prudent 
management, ever kept them aloof from dangerous 
compromises; and on this important occasion they 
were to take no interest with the opposing parties. 
The California had gone south ; and as I sat writ- 
ing one afternoon, my servant David passed through 
the room. I indulged for amusement, now and then, 
in a joke with him; so I told him "to repair to the 
beach, and inquire of our superintendent, how near 
the Plant was ; for she had been seen that morning 
of! Point Conception ! " Elated w4th the news which 
I had jocosely given him, he started off in good- 
humor, and at an hour, when I had almost forgot- 
ten the circumstance, he came back with the answer, 
"the brig was close to the Castle Point, with a very 
light westerly wind." Dusk shut in, and the light 
of the moon revealed, shooting up above the western 
point of the bay, the white, light sails of a vessel. 
She came in and anchored; it was late, and no com- 
munication passed with her that night, but, to carry 



134 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

on the joke, I ordered David to take my horse down 
for the captain early in the morning. When I arose 
at sunrise, David had gone, and I saw through my 
window a brig, indeed. Soon a horseman came 
galloping up the road and alighted at the door ; it 
was the captain, and the brig was the Plant! This 
was joking in earnest, I thought, and too good a 
joke to be lost. She had been out over seven months 
from Boston, owing to stress of weather and the 
serious damage she had encountered off Cape Horn. 
The captain had put back to Rio de Janeiro for 
repairs, and this was the cause of her detention. 
Her arrival, however, was " better late than never,'^ 
and we proceeded to Monterey to enter her cargo. 
A short passage of four days only brought us to her 
anchorage, and on the third after our arrival, owing 
to the cargo being small, the duties were speedily 
adjusted with the " Administrador " of the Customs, 
and we again weighed anchor for San Francisco. 
Here we were detained but a short time, and re- 
turned to Santa Barbara. 

The army of Zamorano was here, and its close 
proximity to the party in " Los Angeles" caused the 
greater portion of the latter to seek shelter farther 
south. This position of affairs determined Don 
Augustin to continue on and gain possession of 
** Los Angeles," which he accomplished by sending a 
force under command of Don Jose M*. Ybarra. The 
troops remained but a few days in the place, how- 
ever, when they retreated to the Mission of San 
Fernando. The cause of which, was a secret com- 
promise of Zamorano with the party below. 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 135 

I proceeded at this crisis of the war to the Bay of 
St. Pedro, where, during my stay I received letters 
from Monterey announcing the arrival of the brig 
Newcastle, from Boston, via the Sandwich Islands, 
bringing news of the embarkation of troops for 
California; which news had been carried thither 
from San Bias by the brig Ivanhoe. This was the 
cause of much alarm to Echeandia and his party, 
who were draining St. Juan, and the splendid Mis- 
sion of St. Luis of their richest possessions. Daily 
reports were received of robberies and murders, 
committed by the Indians at St. Diego, who were in 
a wretched state. At the Mission, below that place, 
which is called St. Miguel, they revolted and at- 
tempted to kill the priest, but he defended himself 
within his house, with the assistance of two soldiers, 
and finally drove them off. They subsequently 
united with Echeandia's party. Stabbings were 
frequent at St. Juan and St. Luis ; and the drunken 
Indian, as he staggered along from his scene of de- 
bauch ejaculated, " Soy libre ! " " I am free ! " 

Having a large quantity of hides and tallow de- 
posited at St. Barbara when the Plant arrived, with 
the collections acquired up to this time, I had more 
than sufficient to load her for home. We proceeded, 
therefore, to carry into effect the necessary prelimi- 
naries, and soon the loading commenced. 

One afternoon, standing on the beach in company 
with some friends witnessing the embarkation of 
the hides, all at once the cry of "Sail ho! "was 
given by the crew, and looking towards the point 
of land projecting from the fort, we saw a vessel 



136 LIFE IX CALIFORNIA. 

under full sail, standing into the bay. The beauti- 
ful symmetry of her spars, sails, and rigging, added 
to the elegance of her hull, her trim appearance, her 
sky-sails and man-of-war semblance, called forth a 
variety of remarks from the bystanders. " My 
eyes! " says Jack to his shipmate, "isn't she a clip- 
per?" " See! how she throws up the suds for'ard ! " 
and as a gust of wind struck her sails, she lay over 
and displayed the smooth and bright appearance of 
her copper. " Look at her ! " continued Jack ; " s/je'.9 
got a driver, I know, or those flying kites wouldn't 
be there!" At that moment a white smoke issued 
from her bow ; the kites disappeared, and the report 
of a cannon echoed up the vale; sky-sails, royals, 
and top-gallant studding sails, all were taken in to- 
gether ! ! and as the quick reducing of her canvas 
brought her to her top-sails, with jib and trysail, 
she slipped past the land like a duck upon the 
water ! " She's a splendid-looking brig, isn't she? " 
says my friend Kutter, " who can she be for? Can 
she be a consort for the California ? " "I don't 
know," I replied ; " but we will see as soon as she 
comes to anchor, if you like ; or, if you think proper, 
we will start now, and board her as she comes in." 
His assent to the proposition led us to the boat, 
which our boys immediately manned, and we 
started for the vessel. Ere we reached her, the 
swift movement, with which she came into port, 
had brought her to her place of anchorage, and as 
we passed up her side, a tall, gentlemanly fellow 
came to the gangway. " My name is Robinson," said 
I, " and 3^ours is " " Thompson," said he, when 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 137 

a cordial conversation succeeded ; during which 
ni}^ friend was introduced, and we passed down 
into the cabin. It was the brig Roxana, Captain 
Francis Thompson, of Boston, which had been sent 
out, by our merchants, to co-operate with the Cali- 
fornia. I took my letters, together with those for 
Gale, and returned to the shore, that I might de- 
spatch intelligence of the brig's arrival. A man 
was procured immediately to proceed to "Los 
Angeles," and before sundown he was on his way, 
with the news. 

On the arrival of a new vessel from the United 
States, every man, woman, boy, and girl in the place 
took a proportionate share of interest as to the qual- 
ities of her cargo. If the first inquired for rice, 
sugar, and tobacco, the latter asked for prints, silks, 
and satins ; and if the boy wanted a " Wilson's cook 
knife," the girl desired that there might be some 
satin ribbons. Thus, the whole population hailed 
with eagerness an arrival ; and even the Indian, in 
his unsophisticated style asked for " Panos colora- 
dos,'' and "Abalorios." "Red handkerchiefs" and 
" beads." 



138 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 



CHAPTER IX. 

Another Cruise. — A *'Ranchero's" Perplexity.— Pudding Sauce, 
not Soup. — A Backwoodsman. — Heavy Rains.— Marriage 
Ceremony.— Fiesta de Boda. — Carnestolendas.— Battle with 
Eggs. — Padre Antonio and Friar Menendez. — A Severe Gale. 
— Dangerous Passage into San Francisco.— Safe Arrival. — 
Genera] Jose Figueroa.— " Administrador " of the Customs, 
alias *' El Pintito." — Patriotism ! — " Hanging On." — Narrow 
Escape from Shipwreck. — A Departure for Boston.— A Visit 
to the Farallones. — Seal Fishery.— Roadstead of St. Juan. — 
Seizure at San Francisco. — Drought.— Procession for Rain. 

FOUR days after the courier's departure with the 
intelligence of the new arrival, Gale had made 
his appearance at St. Barbara, and was on his way 
to Monterey, in the Roxana. The Plant was at 
anchor, still rolling to the swell ; and, as our crew 
slowly stowed on board, their daily quantity of 
hides, she gradually increased her draught of water. 
Three weeks passed away. The Roxana was here 
again, and the Plant ready for sea, bound to the 
United States, via the Sandwich Islands. My quar- 
ters were, consequently, transferred to the former, 
whose next place of destination was the port of San 
Pedro. Both vessels got under way ; but, owing to 
the difference of their destinations, there was very 
soon a considerable space between them ; so that ere 
many hours had elapsed, we beheld the last dip of the 
Plant's main royal in the distant horizon. 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 139 

The succeeding morning found us safely anchored 
at a long distance from the landing, fearing the S.E. 
gales which prevail at this season of the year. Re- 
ports were circulated that a new vessel with a new 
cargo had arrived, which brought great numbers of 
persons to the brig, when the usual scene of con- 
fusion ensued. Several " Rancheros " were among 
our visitors, who had come from afar, to behold a 
"house upon the water." Whilst at dinner, we 
were particularly amused with their awkwardness, 
and when the pudding was served, it was looked at 
with astonishment. When the accompanying sauce 
was carried round, those who chose, added, with the 
assistance of the grater, a quantity of nutmeg. One 
of the "green ones," who had carefully watched this 
operation, in his turn seized the grater, and com- 
menced rubbing with his thumb nail upon the in- 
dented surface; not succeeding by the application 
of his thumb, he paused; and from the general 
smile of the others, who were witnessing his per- 
plexity, he began to think there was something 
wrong; so, looking towards me, he said, " Como es 
que yo no saco nadaf^' " How is it that I do not get 
anything?" I explained the matter to him, and 
told him to examine within, where he would find 
the source, whence the others had obtained the 
aromatic material. However, this is not quite so 
good a joke, as I learned took place afterwards, on 
board of another vessel, which I will insert here to 
compare with the story of the nutmeg. It was on a 
glorious fourth of July, and the day was observed 
with due festivity and rejoicing on board of the 



140 LIFE IX CALIFORNIA. 

, from the Sandwich Islands. At dinner there 



was a great assemblage of guests from the neighbor- 
ing farms of St. Francisco ; when a large bowl was 
used for holding the pudding sauce, which, at the 
proper time, was introduced, and handed to the 
nearest one who had taken pudding. Liking its 
appearance, he took the bowl from the steward, 
returned his plate, and with his spoon, soon made 
a finish of the whole. This accomplished, smack- 
ing his lips, he said, " Que caldo tan hueno ! Que 
lastimaf que no lo trageron antes de la earned "What 
good soup ! What a pity that they did not bring it 
before the meat ! " It is needless to say that the 
rest were obliged to eat their pudding without 
sauce. 

Among our own countrymen, who had lived all 
their lives in the Western Prairies, till a taste for 
emigration had brought them here, w^e had occa- 
sional opportunities to witness a want of experience 
and cultivation, that in many cases did not fall far 
behind the ludicrous behavior of the rude Cali- 
fornians. 

Whilst l^ang here, the small schooner U 

arrived; and, owing to her light draft of water, she 
was enabled to run into the creek, previously spoken 
of in the description of St. Pedro. Whilst at anchor 
there, she w\as visited by several Americans, de- 
tached followers of a hunting expedition. One of 
them had never before seen " salt water," and noth- 
ing nearer the semblance of a vessel, than a common 
Indian canoe. He embarked with great fear and 
distrust, and the smell of the sea, with the boat's 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 141 

motion, had probably made him sick. Stepping 
upon deck, he staggered against the main-mast. 
"Gory! how she totters!" said he; "if it hadn't 
been for that are post, I should have fell down." 

The same person afterwards ventured to come on 
board the brig, by sitting himself down in the bot- 
tom of the boat, and holding with his hands upon 
each side of the gunwale. When he ascended to 
the deck, he required assistance, and the sailors 
were called to hoist him in, like a bag of tallow. 
However, not long after this, he had courage to 
embark upon the "boisterous ocean" in a small, 
pine board canoe, to hunt the sea otter; and many 
a time, that would have made the stoutest seaman 
quail, he heeded not the storm. In like manner, 
probably, the Californian learned the use of nutmeg, 
and that pudding sauce was not soup. 

While lying at anchor in San Pedro, we were fre- 
quently obliged to slip our chain and put to sea, to 
avoid the S.E. gales; during one of which, a Mexi- 
can schooner was wrecked on the island of Cata- 
lina. She had been taken into one of the harbors, 
for the purpose of " heaving out." When the gale 
commenced, she was unprepared to get under way, 
and soon a heavy swell rolled in, which drove her 
on the rocks. 

Leaving St. Pedro, we returned to Santa Barbara, 
Avhen, the day previous to the one which I had 
appointed for sailing, a southeast wind set in, with 
rain, which lasted ten days. The brig was obliged 
to get under way, immediately, and was driven to 
leeward so far, that she was not seen again at her 
place of anchorage for tw^o weeks. 



142 LIFE IX CALIFORNIA. 

Oftentimes, at this season, I have known it to rain 
unceasingly for a week, and sometimes, so furiously 
as to wash down the mud houses. Near the suburbs 
of the town is a ravine, leading from the mountains 
to the beach, which I have seen filled to its margin, 
carrying down large trees by the force of the current. 

During my detention here, the wedding of Don 
Manuel Jimeno with Dona Maria de las Angustias 
de la Guerra, daughter of Sr. Don Jos^ Antonio de 
la Guerra y Noriega, took place. On this occasion 
the bridegroom neither had an opportunity of appro- 
priating the services of an experienced steward, nor 
had he a vessel to which he could repair, and make 
use of her choicest stores, as had been facetiously 
stated, in a popular work by R. H. Dana, to have been 
done by an American gentleman, who subsequently 
married a sister of the bride ; but he had a brother, 
the director of the mission, who was determined to 
outdo all that had ever been known in California. 
On the marriage eve, the bride went with her father 
to the mission, dressed in her usual church costume, 
which was deep black; where the joining of hands 
took place towards morning, and, at a. later hour, the 
church ceremonies were performed. Breakfast was 
served with considerable taste, a task to which the 
worthy friar was fully competent. At its conclusion 
the bride and bridegroom were escorted to the house 
of her father. Padre Antonio had made his Indians 
happy by distributing presents among them ; and 
many of the younger ones, well attired for the occa- 
sion, joined in the procession. They approached 
the town without any regular order, until arriving 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 143 

almost within its precincts; when, under the direc- 
tion of the friar, they formed and marched in the 
following manner. First came the military band, 
consisting of about twenty performers, who were 
dressed in a new uniform of red jackets trimmed 
with yellow cord, white pantaloons made after the 
Turkish fashion, and red caps of the Polish order. 
Then followed the bride and bridegroom, in an 
open English barouche, accompanied by the sister 
of the former. After these, in a close carriage, came 
Don Jos^ and Father Antonio; in another, the 
Madrina and cousin : and lastly, numbers of men 
and women on horseback. Guns were fired, alter- 
nately, at the mission and in the Presidio, until 
their arrival at the house, to the ^'fiesta de Boda^ 
At one o'clock a large number of invited guests sat 
down at a long table, to partake of an excellent din- 
ner. The married couple were seated at the head 
with the father spiritual on the right, and the father 
temporal on the left. Dinner being over, part of the 
company retired to their homes, whilst some of the 
younger adjourned to a booth, which was prepared 
in the courtyard, sufficiently large to contain sev- 
eral hundred people. Here they danced a while, 
and then retired. Early in the evening, people, 
invited and uninvited, began to fill up the booth, 
and soon, dancing commenced. The music con- 
sisted of two violins and a guitar, on which were 
performed many beautiful waltzes and contra 
dances, together with a great number of local melo- 
dies. During the evening all took active part in 
the amusement, and as the poorer classes exhibited 



144 



MI-'IC IN (ALN'OMNIA, 



IIkmi" ifviu't'Ui] iM'rloniiiiiiccM, llic Ivvo (jiMiorH, IVoiii /m 
<l('vnl,<M| |M»Hilioii, l,lir<iw nl, iJM'ir foci, hIIvcu* (IoIIui'h 
nixl (loiilddoii::. 'Ilic " /'\i mldii'/o,'' vvliicli liJiH Immmi 
riilly (ix|)liiiii(Ml ill n. previous clinplcr, liiHlrd imlil 
rlic iiioniiii^- li^lil. n|)|M']ir(M|, iMconiixuiittd vvilli ;ill 
I lie viirirly ('iiHU)iimiy on siicli o<u;HHionH. 

<)ii I lie in!xl, <lMy, l^ntlicr Anloiiio, lis ii, rnrtlicr 
ronipliinonr to IIm^ l>ri<lo, Inul diiiiHU' |)r<*|uu'(Mi in 
(Jic, t;orri(lor of Mi<< MinHioii — l\\<s Inhlc rcjicliiii;^ IVoiii 
orUH'ixl lo I he ol Ih'i, mid (lie |iln,('0 Ixriii/.'; iMloiiicd 
with ll;i;j,.s. Here- nil Umi lovvii vvns iiivilcMJ to pjii*- 
ti<i|>jiln, wImiii old mikI yomi^, rich luid poor, liuno 
and l)liti<l, hhick jiihI wiiitc, Joiiicd in lii<; IrjiMt. 
|<\>r hcvmmrI Mii('(;<!('din^; iii;.d»t.M iJio " I'^tudainjn^^ wns 
repented nt the hoothjiiid they lind eiioii/^h of I'enHl,- 
iii|', nnd dnn<'iii;>, iiil<'i'inin/^l<Ml with the n.liiilH(v 
liientH of the *' ( '((viK.'iln/ntdd.H " to hiHt thein iov some 
tiiiM'. 

The iiMiiul McnHoii lor ''( '(irnr.^lolciKhiH'' is during 
tho thrcH^ dnys |)revionM lo Ash W(Mhi(wdn,y, hut hen? 
tli(\y <'.oiiiin(»ne(^ two weeks (Mii'jier. WliilHt tin^Ho 
uniUMeiiK^iiis hiMi, it is (lnii;^(^roiiM for otio to /^o into 
n lioUHe where he is ne(|Uiii tiled , lor he is linhle to 
liiMvell dreiiehecl with < 'olo^ne or sei^iited wn.t(ir. 
Tliis is neeoinplished hy the following prepn,rn,tory 
proiM'MH, Ah ninny e|;i;s ns niny he iMMpiiiJid, nre 
enip(:i<<d of their c'oiit(^iitH, hy perldnitin;; n, hoh? n,t 
<<n('h end, through which th(\y nn? hlown hy tin? 
mouth. 'The shells nre nfterwniMls ininiorsed in n, 
hirj^i) hnsin of pr(^|>nr(Ml (vsseiK'es, with which they 
ar(^ partly lilhMJ, nnd tin* holes (Ikmi senhul with wax. 
ThuH made ready, they are hrokeii ujioii Ihe heads 



Liyic IS ( ALiytjiisiA, n/> 

of indivlduah ; but it mii»t im undcrKt^iod, that thin 
IH only <Jorjo w]K*Tii ^trttai ifdliirrtcy exihin Utiw^/ifj 
the parti ew, OfU;n ti rri<;« irivj tationx arc giv^jn for a 
select c^mipany to anmmhUi at a H[>e<;ifWl pla^^;, 
whr^ri all iiiU'jul at tli^; tirnc apjK^inUj'J "arrr/<;/| and 
<j*juippr;d '' for a battl<; witli tli^; 'JggH- On «tjcfj o^^- 
CHHiouH, an the exciU^nrjent grown warm, and tljeir 
anjniunition \Kii'/>miiH nearly exhannte^J, they re«^>K 
t'i wet rmifkitiH, which they «lap at e;ju;h other. 
From then^j tijey haver^j^y^urh^jU^ tunjblerHof wat<;r; 
from thewe to pitchers, and from piU;herM Uj buckets, 
until, tir^j'l and cxhaunU^l l^y the exerci^j, they 
de«iijt, 

During the r^^^n tin uam^^ of the marriage foHiivfil 
«fK>ken of, one of the«^; UoVum wan held at the hout^ 
of the bride. Among the [pi'Shtma luviU'A were the 
Vidren Antonio and hUmfsntUz; at the clo»e of th« 
evening, when hwJcHH witra in cxfUHiaui n^juiiiition, 
the two friarn Ujcame himUA, and atta/;ked ^^a/;h 
othjer witJj fioodn of wat^;r Menendez, the weaker 
of the two, ndrfTiiUA U> an a/ijoining donnlUfry and 
dotind the do^'ir. P4rJre Antonio, urgent t^> follow 
up the atUi/;k, purnu^^l him; when Menend*?/,, »ij<j- 
ing no infi^nn of e»ca[>e, wei/.e'l from ben/^ath the be^i 
an article. ofU^ner u^ than // i. and let it 

t\y, c/fUUmih and all, full inU> t;. .i i'^Jre An- 

tonio, who hia/J ju«t apjKjan?'] at the door 1*he eon- 
>>':i'juen/;*r« were, thelohH of two of the [>oor friar** 
front teeth, and a ^/jii^dmion ofiUft/un. 

Immediately after the li/fxann^n return f em- 
hark/yl, and we ^iled for the fx>rt of Ht. Vrancmtf), 
AhIh u>juaJ, afU^r a H.K. gale Hn\mdii^f a ydrong H.W 



146 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

wind set in. Twenty-one days afterwards, when in 
the latitude of Port Bodega, whither we had been 
carried by adverse winds, we were obliged to heave 
to, and lay more than forty-eight hours drifting di- 
rectly upon the land. Had the wind continued 
twenty-four hours longer, we should have been 
driven on the coast; but it hauled to the west, and 
Captain Thompson ordered sail to be made, and the 
vessel was kept away for the Farallones. Five hours 
brought us to these islands ; a short distance from 
them and the main, the sea was covered with white 
foam, tumbling and breaking in every direction. 
It was fearful to look at ; and the captain, some- 
what doubtful as to the propriety of attempting a 
passage through, turned to where I stood gazing 
upon the scene, and said, " What do you say, squire, 
shall we go it ? " "As you please, sir," I replied. 
In a moment the brig's bow became enveloped in 
foam; a heavy comber came inboard, rushing over 
spars and bulwarks, and furiously passed her sides. 
On we sailed. Another and another sea came roll- 
ing behind us, seemingly disposed to sweep our 
decks. The orders of the captain as he cried 
" Steady ! " to the man at the helm, with the ex- 
ception of the noise of the agitated billows, were all 
the sounds that met my ear. At length a heavier 
roller struck her stern ; but its force was spent, ere 
it reached us, and it harmlessl}^ washed upon the 
deck. I jumped to the rigging, and there I re- 
mained firml}^ fixed, until our approach to smoother 
seas. We passed safely through the danger, and 
arrived at our place of anchorage; but had the 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 147 

vessel unfortunately broached to, when in the worst 
part of the passage, we must have been seriously 
injured. The cause of so much sea was, the length 
of time that the wind had blown so heavily from the 
southward and westward. This is not often the 
case, but when it does happen, the sea is soon 
calmed by the counter operations of the northerly 
winds. 

The inclement season of the year caused us con- 
siderable detention, it being difficult to procure our 
hides from the missions, for the roads were almost 
impassable. We were at length, however, enabled 
to proceed to Monterey, where to our surprise we 
found a new order of things in governmental affairs. 
The new General had arrived. ^' Sr. General de 
Brigada Don Jose Figueroa, Comandante general y 
Gefe politico de la Alta California ! I " He em- 
barked at Acapulco in the Mexican brig Catalina, 
accompanied by his officers and soldiers, and on his 
way touched at St. Bias to take eleven missionaries, 
who were from the College of Zacatecas. While at 
Mazatlan, where he had stopped for some military 
stores, the brig was struck with lightning, which 
passed along her mainmast into the hold, and set 
fire to some articles which were stowed near the 
powder. The fire was fortunately extinguished. 
While stopping at Cape St. Lucas, the troops re- 
volted, and declared for St. Ana, who was then in 
arms against the government. They took possession 
of the vessel, and, leaving the general and friars at 
St. Lucas, obliged the captain to proceed to St. Bias, 
where they remained. On the passage, the military 



148 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

chests were broken open, and the money distributed 
amongst the soldiers and crew. The captain, after 
recruiting his vessel returned to St. Lucas, where 
the general, with the few faithful officers and sol- 
diers, who remained with him, together with the 
friars, re-embarked, and arrived at their destination 
in January, 1833. 

He assumed his authority at a period, when an- 
archy and confusion spread throughout the country. 
The supreme government of Mexico had entirely 
disapproved of the conduct of Echeandia and Pa- 
dres, and ordered Figueroa, in case he should find 
that the scheme of secularization had been carried 
into effect, to suspend the operation, and restore the 
Missions to their former state. 

A new "Admi7iistrador^^ of the Customs had also 
arrived, and was already put in possession of his 
office. His name was Don Raphael Gonsalez, alias 
" el Pintito; " as well calculated to discharge his 
duties, as he was to navigate a steamboat through 
the Straits of Magellan ! A vessel with a small 
cargo had lately arrived, and the invoice was 
handed to ^'Pintito" for inspection, in which, where 
a repetition of either cases or bales occurred, the 
word iden was substituted, signifying ditto. After 
puzzling his brains for a considerable time, he in- 
quired of the supercargo the character of the goods 
called '^iden." This example must be sufficient to* 
convince any one of his incapacity. 

His wife was taken, as a specimen of Mexican 
beauty, to figure in the wild woods of California ; 
but, how great must have been the surprise of both 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 149 

husband and wife, to find that she was by no means 
the fairest of the fair ! A daughter had blessed their 
happy union, a lively, dark-eyed girl, who had mar- 
ried a youth, more for his comely features than for 
his manly virtues. This was Don Jose Maria Cas- 
tafiares, the acting secretary to his respected father- 
in-law. The new "Advmiistrador^' was a plain- 
looking man, rather spare, with Indian features, but 
possessing very polite and affable manners. 

Accomplishing our business in two days, I took 
leave of the new comers and my friends, and pro- 
ceeded down to St. Barbara. At the time of my 
first embarkation in the Roxana, my friend Gale 
sailed in the ship California to St. Diego, where he 
was to superintend the stowage of hides, for she was 
to load for home, and to return afterwards to St. 
Barbara, to take on board a few more which we had 
collected there. Sufficient time had elapsed for 
this, and I looked daily for her arrival. 

Whilst lying at St. Barbara, waiting, we heard of 
a circular which had been issued by Figueroa, 
granting pardon to all those who took part in the 
revolution against Sr. Victoria. Echeandia had re- 
tired to San Diego, to prepare for his return 
to Mexico. What a scourge he had been to 
California ! What an instigator of vice ! " Hombre 
de vicio,^' as he was called. The seeds of dis- 
honor sown by him will never be extirpated so 
long as there remains a Mission to rob, or a treas- 
ury to plunder ! If Mexico, in her zeal for the wel- 
fare of her territories, had been more circumspect 
in the choice of officers for California, she would 



150 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

not have experienced the humiliation that she has 
borne, nor incurred the expense of so many expe- 
ditions to reconquer it. Her own people have been 
in all cases the fomenters ; and here, as has been 
frequently done in Mexico, they have aimed at the 
removal of certain governmental officers, not so 
much for the desire of reform, as for the division of 
the spoils! This is the pretended patriotism of all 
Mexicans who have taken active part in revolu- 
tionizing their own country, and which has been 
disseminated by them amongst the Californians, 
till, like themselves, they have become '' Patriofas 
de bolsa ! " (Patriots of the pocket.) The cause of 
such ungovernable desires may be traced to their 
education, and to the indolent manner in which 
they have been reared. Thus we may trace its 
origin to the time when Spain held sway over 
the American republics! to the old Spaniards, who, 
whilst rolling in wealth, indulged in excessive in- 
dolence. This trait of character still exists among 
their descendants, and you might as well expect 
a sloth to leave a tree, that has one inch of bark 
left upon its trunk, as to expect a Californian to 
labor, whilst a real glistens in his pocket ! 

But I will leave these reflections and continue 
my narration, from St. Barbara. We proceeded to 
St. Pedro. When nearly opposite St. Buenaventura, 
a sail was observed between the small islands which 
have been previously described, and the point of 
land which makes out below the Mission. As we 
neared each other I saw it was a ship, and at last, 
distinctly discerned her to be the California. We 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 151 

kept away to speak her. Both vessels were hove to, 
with their maintopsails to the mast, Gale came on 
board with Captain Cunningham, and after arrang- 
ing certain business matters, which he had deemed 
necessary for my guidance, they took leave and re- 
turned to their ship. The sails were filled, a good 
breeze favored us, so that the California was soon 
out of sight, and we rapidly approached our place 
of destination. The wind freshened, and hauling 
to the N.E. from the land, gave us greater speed, so 
that during the night we had reached the western 
extremity of the Bay of St. Pedro. A thick atmos- 
phere rendered nearer approach to the land unsafe, 
and Captain Thompson concluded to ''hang on" till 
morning, between the island of Catalina and the 
projecting point of the bay. Vessels, when not en- 
abled to enter the bay at night, are obliged to keep 
under sail, beating to windward, for should they 
heave to, they would be swept to leeward by the 
strength of the current. This is what is called 
" hanging on." 

At daylight, when the Roxana's course was shaped 
for the place of anchorage, another sail appeared in 
company, the barque Chalcedony, Captain Steele, 
of Boston, which was standing in also ; but Captain 
Thompson, unwilling to permit that she should come 
to, before his vessel did, hurriedly dropped anchor 
near the point; not so the barque; her more expe- 
rienced captain, distrusting the appearance of the 
sky, ran by us, deep into the bay, hauled on a wind, 
and stood out again to sea. Her after sails were 
hardly braced round when a sudden gust of wind 



152 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

came rushing from the mountains. In a moment 
her topgallant sails were lowered, her courses rose, 
and the splashing waters, as they broke against her 
bows, told how swiftly she was borne on by the vio- 
lence of the wind. Our situation w^as by no means 
comfortable, for, ere the topsails had been furled, a 
foaming sea gave notice of the approaching gust. 
Captain Thompson saw at once the danger, regretted 
his imprudence, and the men were ordered to " bear 
a hand " with the sails. " Come down," said he, 
" come down from the yards ! " " Man the windlass, 
Mr. L.;" "jump forward there, men ! " But another 
idea had struck him, which w^as put into execution 
in the " twinkling of an eye." The brig lay tailing 
in (within a stone's throw) towards the beacb. The 
swell increased, and as she plunged heavily into it, 
it broke in over her bows and came rolling towards 
her stern. Our sails were still hanging from the 
yardarms, and their opposition to the wind, with 
the force of the swell, seemed urging us to the 
shore. "Avast heaving!" "Hold on, Mr. L.!" 
" Clap a buoy on the chain ! " " Quick now ! " 
" Move yourselves ! " " Bear a hand, boys ! " " Stand 
by the jib ! " " Unshackle the chain ! " " Let go ! " 
"Hoist up the jib!" and running to the helm he 
shifted it to the other side, for his quick eye had 
observed her stern-way. The brig fell off finely. 
The topsails were sheeted home, and as our good 
little craft leaped over the seas, we shaved the land 
close, and sailed from the dangerous spot. 

This was only the commencement of trouble. We 
returned and anchored, but repeated storms obliged 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 153 

US frequently to get under way, till at last, having 
embarked all that we could recover at this time from 
our " Pueblanos" we weighed anchor and proceeded 
back to St. Barbara. 

Preparations had been made for my return to the 
United States in the California ; a state-room had 
been fitted up, and Captain Cunningham and I had 
often talked over the good times we should have on 
the voyage. The idea, however, was disagreeable to 
friend Gale. He did not like to remain alone in 
California, and proposed, in a letter which I received 
at the Pueblo, to write home for the ship's imme- 
diate return, and that I should abandon the idea for 
the present ; so, during the passage from St. Pedro, 
I had an opportunity to think it over, as the Span- 
iards say, " despacio " (slowly). 

Our passage was pleasant, and two days after the 
brig's departure from St. Pedro, we beheld the green 
hills and low-roofed houses of St. Barbara. A light 
air kept our sails flapping till mid-day, when the 
sea breeze set in, and a half hour's sailing brought 
us to the anchorage. We anchored close along side 
of the California. Gale came immediately to the 
brig, and we started for the shore. His first inquiry 
w^as relative to my decision. A short conversation 
on the subject ensued, when I acquiesced in his 
proposition — therefore, my return to the United 
States was postponed, and although five years had 
elapsed since I took leave of Boston, by this decision 
I debarred myself of the pleasure, for three years 
longer, of seeing my relatives. Friend Gale was 
satisfied, and I partially reconciled to the deten- 



154 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

tion. In a few days our business was completed, so 
that the California was enabled to sail. 

About the first of April, 1833, the ship started for 
the United States. Her chain-plates dragged through 
the water, from the weight of her cargo, and yet she 
moved along with as much life and speed, as did the 
generality of vessels in ballast trim. The breeze was 
fresh, and I watched her from the door of my house, 
till, like a small speck, she was seen indistinctly 
wsth the naked eye, when I caught at a telescope, 
and looked, and looked — till the speck was gone ! 
and thus vanished my ideas of return to Boston! 

Having in store part of a cargo for the Roxana, 
I thought it advisable to make a trip with her to 
windward, and then after procuring a few more 
hides at the south, to load her up and send her 
home. To carry this into effect, Gale embarked in 
the brig for St. Francisco, and I started to perform 
the journey by land. Arriving some time before 
Gale, I was enabled to have everything ready for 
the brig when she came into port; so there was but 
little detention this time at St. Francisco, and we 
sailed for Monterey. We got under way with a 
light S.E. wind, which lasted during the day and 
night, and were drifted by the current within a very 
small distance of the largest island of the " Faral- 
lones." The weather became calm and pleasant, 
and the recollection of former scenes that passed 
through the mind of Gale, as he leaned over the 
rail, gazing at the rocks, determined him to visit 
his old sealing ground. The boat w^as prepared — 
Gale took a club to knock down a seal, should we 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 155 

see any, and I took my gun. Although many 
years had passed away, he had not ^forgotten the 
little cove where he used to land, towards w^hich 
we pulled and landed upon the beach. The rocks 
were covered with thousands of birds; many of the 
young were taken by the sailors, and carried to the 
boat, while Gale and I ascended to the place where 
his dwelling formerly stood; but, it had been in- 
vaded by the Russian sailors, who had used it for a 
turnip garden ! There remained, yet, some coarse 
buildings, which, a few years since, the Russians 
inhabited. At last we arrived at a place where Gale 
came to a halt ; grounded his long club as if it were a 
musket, and, like an old soldier on some battle- 
field pointing out the movements of an army as 
they occurred in some memorable engagement, he 
told of encounters and victories. " There," said he, 
" you see that high rock leading from one end of 
the island to the other?" " Yes." "Well, many a 
time I have crossed that place, with as many skins 
upon my back as I could wag under ! Here," con- 
tinued he, " here, where this infernal turnip is 
growing, I had my trap to catch the small ground 
rats that infested the place. It was a half barrel 
sunk upright in the ground, so that one end was on 
a level with its surface — the head had a square hole 
cut in its centre, which was fitted with a trap-door, 
that would cant inwards from the slightest touch. 
Well," continued he, " I have known it to be nearly 
filled in one night! There, I have attacked more 
than twenty seals and killed them all but two ! 
and here," (as he took me to a little cove between 



156 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

two high cliffs,) " here I have knocked down hun- 
dreds! But wait," said he, ''there are two large fel- 
lows asleep. Now I will show you how I managed." 
I wanted to fire, but he said " No ! " and carefully 
prepared to descend, so as to cut them off from the 
water; but in the attempt his courage failed, and 
the seals escaped. He was not then, what he was 
when monarch of the isle! A short walk over the 
premises succeeded, and we returned on board to 
continue our voyage to Monterey. 

The wind set in from the N.W. — soon a stiff 
breeze followed, and before morning w^e were close 
under point Ano Nuevo. Here the brig lay to, for 
daylight, when w^e ran into the bay and anchored. 
The General having gone south with his troops, the 
place appeared deserted ; many had gone to their 
farms, and the streets were still as death. From 
Monterey, we went down the coast, landed our col- 
lections at Santa Barbara, and continued our course 
for St. Pedro and St. Juan. We anchored at the 
latter place during the month of June, at a time 
when no danger is to be apprehended from the 
S.E. gales, and just to the southward of a high pro- 
jecting point of land, where, at low water, several 
large rocks were seen close under the brig's stern. 
Landing on the beach was usually very dangerous, 
and at this time it needed all the skill of the helms- 
man to keep us from a drenched skin. There are 
two points for embarking cargo ; one is where the 
hides are taken directly to the beach, and the other, 
where they are thrown down upon it from a high 
cliff. Leaving St. Juan, we returned to Santa Bar- 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 157 

bara, loaded the brig, and despatched her to the 
United States. 

About this time, the schooner Loriot, from the 
Sandwich Islands, was seized at St. Francisco, and 
notwithstanding she had passed the requirements 
of the "Aduana " (Custom House) at Monterey, all 
her cargo was taken on shore, together with her 
sails, and detained for a long time. The vessel 
was afterwards given up, but her cargo had sus- 
tained much damage, and there was a great de- 
ficiency in her stores. 

Time passed away rapidly. The year was nearly 
at a close. The season for rain had set in, but as 
yet none had fallen. The hills and fields were 
parched by the heat of the sun, and all vegetation 
seemed partially destroyed. Every one cried for 
rain ! One wished it for his corn, another for his 
beans, another for his wheat, and all for their pas- 
turage, the scarcity of which was likely to cause 
trouble among their cattle. At this important 
crisis, the holy father of the mission was besought, 
that the " Virgin de nuestra Senora del Rosario " 
might be carried in procession through the town, 
whilst prayers and supplications should be offered 
for her intercession with the Almighty in behalf of 
their distress. This was complied wdth, as was cus- 
tomary on such occasions, and conducted in the 
following manner. First, came the priest in his 
church robes, who, with a fine clear voice, led the 
Rosary. On each side of him were two pages, and 
the music followed ; then, four females, who sup- 
ported on their shoulders a kind of litter, on which 



158 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

rested a square box containing the figure of the 
Holy Virgin. Lastly, came a long train of men, 
women and children, who united in the recital of 
the sacred mysteries. The figure was ornamented 
for the occasion with great finer}^, and every one 
who pleased, had contributed some rich ornament 
of jewelry or dress, for its display. In this manner, 
they proceeded from the church, through the town, 
to the beach ; chanting verses between the mys- 
teries, accompanied by violins and flutes. From 
the beach, they returned to the church in the same 
order, when the prayers were concluded. 

After this performance, all looked for rain with 
as much faith as our countrymen look for the 
steamer from Liverpool on the thirteenth or four- 
teenth day after her time of departure ! Should 
their expectations, however, not be realized, the pro- 
cession would be repeated until they were ! 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 159 



CHAPTER X. 

Dividing of the Missions. — Sporting at Santa Barbara.— Arrival 
of the Ship " California."— Accident to Gale. — Supposed 
Revolutionary Designs. — Rumors. — Determination of the 
Priests. — Destruction of the Missions. — A new Appoint- 
ment.— Arrival of the Colonists.— Seiior Hijar.— Plan of the 
Colonists. — Appointment of '■^ Adminisir adores ^^ to the 
Missions.— Death of Figueroa. — Proceedings of the " Excel- 
entisima DiputacionJ'^ — Burial of Figueroa at Santa Bar- 
bara. — A new Governor. — His Disgrace.— Nicolas Gutier- 
rez. — Disturbance at Monterey.— Juan B. Alvarado.~A 
Bold Tennesseean.— Surrender of the Mexicans. — Declara- 
tion of Independence.— Its Consequences in Mexico, 

ABOUT this period of my narration the juris- 
diction of the missions was divided ; and one- 
half of them was delivered over to the " Padres" 
from Zacatecas. Their division would either com- 
prise all the establishments at the northward of St. 
Miguel, or all those south of St. Antonio. To de- 
termine which, Father Narciso Duran, the Presi- 
dent, proposed that the decision should rest upon 
his brother missionaries and be determined b}^ bal- 
lot. In this way the rich and fertile missions at the 
north, fell to the management of the new friars. 

With sorrowful hearts they were given up ; and 
their former directors were located at other parts of 
the territory. Father Narciso settled at St. Barbara, 
where he has since remained an active distributor 



160 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

to the temporal; as well as spiritual wants of his 
people. 

Whilst Gale and myself remained as temporary 
residents on shore, no particular occurrence tran- 
spired, excepting an occasional robbery, or murder, 
at the south ; for still the missions in that quarter 
were unsettled, and hardly a day passed without 
some new act of violence occurring. 

A white man was stabbed by a black fellow ; but 
this being considered only an ordinary occurrence, 
no notice was taken of it. A sergeant of artillery 
who had cut the throat of his comrade, was put on 
board the barque Leonor, bound to St. Bias. There 
being no constituted tribunal here to take cogni- 
zance of the deed, the villain was sent to Mexico, 
where, the probability is, he was promoted, and will 
be ordered back to commit more murders ! This 
has been too often the case, and the assassin, em- 
boldened in consequence, hesitates not to kill, when 
he feels it indispensable to his purpose. What is 
most astonishing, is, why the Indian does not take 
example from his Mexican brethren, and like them, 
kill and plunder. Thanks to the worthy missiona- 
ries, who have taught him and made him superior 
to those of higher pretensions to civilization ! 

To pass away the time, we frequently went out 
into the neighboring woods, or along the creeks in 
quest of game ; of which we always succeeded in ob- 
taining large quantities, so that our larder was ever 
w^ell stocked w^ith ducks, geese, rabbits, quail, and 
sometimes a fat deer. A large pond, called " las 
Salinas" situated at the base of a thick wooded 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 161 

hill, was our favorite retreat, where, under cover of 
the trees, we waited the coming of the ducks. 

On one of these excursions, we rode to the en- 
trance of the wood, and leaving our carriage, walked 
through the narrow pathway leading over the hill, 
to the further extremity of the pond. Having re- 
mained later than usual, Gale was anxious to 
return, and proposed our leaving ; but I wished to 
have one more shot, and told him if he would go 
slowly along, I would overtake him by a short cut 
over the hill. He started, therefore, taking his 
course along the pond's margin. After he had 
been absent some time, I followed, as I had prom- 
ised. Arriving at the carriage, I saw nothing of 
Gale, and supposing he must have continued his 
way to the house, jumped in and drove off. The 
road was along a hard, sandy beach, over which 
the horse trotted well. Not overtaking him, and 
seeing nothing of him ahead, I began to fear I had 
left him behind ; yet, I had remained a long while 
at the pond, and certainly he had had more than suf- 
ficient time to reach the carriage. Thus I reasoned, 
as I looked behind me, and then whipped up the 
horse to urge him forward. On I drove, faster and 
faster, until reaching the house, where Daniel was 
standing, as usual, at the door. I enquired if Gale 
had returned. The answer was, " No ! he had not 
been seen." The fact was now revealed — he was 
behind ! I would have returned to meet him, but 
knew not which route he would take, there being 
two or three that led to the town ; and, while re- 
solving what to do, I saw him with his hunting- 



162 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

coat over one arm, and hat in hand, coming towards 
the house. As he entered he threw them down, 
upon the floor, and waited patiently for explana- 
tion ; and the perspiration rolled down his face in 
streams whilst listening to my story, which he would 
not credit. He insisted that it was done intention- 
ally, for he saw me look behind several times, and 
the more he waved with his handkerchief, the faster 
I drove. He never believed otherwise, nor could be 
convinced but that I intended it as a joke! 

Some time after this, whilst the ship Lagoda, of 
Boston, was lying at anchor here, I saw a sail one 
morning in the passage way, between the island of 
Santa Cruz and another smaller island east. Call- 
ing to Gale, I said, " Here comes the California! It 
must be she, for there is no vessel, that I am aware 
of, at any port south." The glass was brought to 
bear immediately upon the stranger, when we were 
both well satisfied of her being a ship, at least. She 
kept standing in towards the anchorage, and at 
noon, we made her out an American vessel. x\s 
the wind increased, she approached faster until at 
length we saw distinctly the house on deck, and 
her painted ports. Towards sundown, she stood 
close into the kelp that floats near the beach, and 
then tacked ship to the south, off shore ; being much 
below the place of anchorage. As she filled away 
on the other tack, the sun struck brilliantly on her 
broad painted waist, when Gale exclaimed, " It is a 
sloop of war!" She stood off" thus a while, then 
made another stretch in, and as there was a prob- 
ability of her soon reaching the anchorage, I ac- 



LIFP: in CALIFORNIA. 163 

companied Mr. Shaw, of the Lagoda, to the beach. 
He had just returned from a visit to the Mission, 
and kindly invited me to his ship, to see the stran- 
ger. When we arrived on board, our new comer 
was standing in, with a very light breeze, which, 
from its scantiness, compelled her to pass some dis- 
tance off, and anchor astern. Captain Bradshaw, 
of the Lagoda, went, in his boat, alongside and re- 
turned ; but I could obtain no satisfactory informa- 
tion respecting her from him, for he, ever full of 
fun, proclaimed her "A New York ship, with the 
yellow fever on board — put in, in distress." Short- 
ly, a boat shoved off from the vessel, came along- 
side, and Captain Arthur, of the California, was 
soon on deck, squeezing my hand ; and I hastened 
to take leave of our friends of the Lagoda, that Gale 
might be convinced of his mistake; for the new 
comer was not the " sloop of war " he took her to 
be ! Her prompt return from Boston was gratify- 
ing to both Gale and myself, and we joyfully went 
to work preparing her cargo. To enter into all the 
particulars of the voyage would be but to repeat, in 
a great measure, that which has already been de- 
scribed ; for this reason, I shall confine myself to 
other more important events. 

As before with other vessels, we repaired to Mon- 
terey, entered the ship, and regulated the duties on 
her cargo with our friend ^^ El Pintito.'" One after- 
noon, whilst at his office arranging our papers, 
some necessary formality rendered it important that 
one of the papers should have the signature of the 
" Sub Comisaria." I took it to go to the office, but 



164 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

Gale said to me, *' No ! you remain here, and I will 
go with the paper ! " He had been absent but a 
short time, when a messenger came running in, 
with the intelligence that Gale had been bitten ter- 
ribly in the leg, by a large dog that was chained at 
the door. The necessary remedies were immedi- 
ately applied, but it w^as a long time before he could 
walk. 

The bay presented a lively scene at this time, 
being filled with a kind of small fish called " Sar- 
dinas,'' thousands of which, in endeavoring to es- 
cape from the pursuit of larger fish, were cast upon 
the beach. These attract a multitude of birds that 
devour them, on shore and in the water. Numer- 
ous whales feed upon them also, and constantly 
play about the ship. At times these enormous 
creatures will raise themselves almost entirely out 
of the water, and fall into it again with great force. 
While preying upon this food, they are not unfre- 
quently attacked by the sword fish and killer, when, 
like the sardinas, they are driven upon the beach to 
die. The Indians, during this yearly visitation, 
may be daily seen up to their knees in the surf, 
with their nets, which are easily filled, and thus the 
inhabitants are supplied with provision, and at 
night bears come from the woods, heralded by the 
howling of wolves, and the barking of coyotes. It 
is a merry sight, to behold, on a bright sunny day, 
the joy of the Indians, at the landing-place, as they 
scoop with their nets — the leaping of the silvery 
fish that are thrown upon the rocks — the darting of 
the birds, and the splashing of the water as they 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 165 

pounce upon their prey — the jumping porpoise — 
the spouting whale, all of which attract hundreds of 
spectators to the beach, and keep them there for 
hours beholders of the scene. 

Departing from this place w^e proceeded to San 
Francisco, thence south as far as St. Diego, and 
back to Monterey. During the trip there were but 
few occurrences of note, and soon after its accom- 
plishment the ship sailed for the United States. 

About the latter part of May, 1834, an important 
movement was made on the part of the Government, 
when the whole armed force of Montere}^, under 
command of Don Nicolas Gutierez, was brought into 
active service, to quell a revolution, said to have 
been projected by two distinguished individuals at 
the south. The facts are these : Don Jos^ Noriega 
of Santa Barbara, for some time back had contem- 
plated purchasing a large tract of land called ^'Simi,^' 
which was then in the possession of a dissolute per- 
son, named Rafael Pico. On a certain day, by 
agreement, the parties, interested, met at the Mis- 
sion of St. Gabriel, to draw up the necessary docu- 
ments. For this purpose, several persons were re- 
quired as witnesses. There was also in process, at 
the same time, an examination of the archives of 
the Mission, by Padre President Narciso, who was 
assisted by Noriega in the work, which required 
several days for its accomplishment. A poor, igno- 
rant fellow, a soldier attached to the Mission guard, 
haAung been witness to nearly the whole operation, 
suspected that some secret plan of conspiracy was 
forming against the government, and hastened to 



166 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

the town of Angels with the information, which lie 
privately imparted to the Alcalde. At this time a 
brother-in-laiu of Noriega filled this all-important 
station; and another brother was there from Santa 
Barbara on a visit. No sooner had they received 
the intelligence, than all haste was adopted for the 
purpose of conveying the same to the Governor at 
Monterey. The brothers had long possessed vin- 
dictive feelings towards Noriega, in consequence of 
his opposition to the plan of secularization ; and 
now^ an opportunity^ offered to gratify those feelings, 
and secure his banishment, together with that of 
the good old Father Narciso. The brother from 
Santa Barbara hastened his departure, and on his 
route home, communicated the secret, in confidence, 
to Padre Bias; who, in the general change in the 
locations of the priests, had been ordered, by Father 
Narciso, to the Mission of St. Buenaventura. This 
friar had been censured by his Prelate, for unbe- 
coming conduct, and he, therefore, rejoiced at the 
information; rubbing his hands with ecstasy, he 
offered to assist in getting the intelligence to Fi- 
gueroa. Horses were furnished, and a son of the 
affectionate brother, was despatched post-haste to the 
capital. In the meantime, our old President and 
Seiior Noriega returned to Santa Barbara. Several 
days had elapsed, when, early one morning, a friend 
tapped at the window of Don Jos^, and asked admit- 
tance. He was the bearer of important intelligence, 
and announced the arrival of Seiior Gutierez witli 
troops, who had come to take Noriega and Father 
Narciso prisoners, as being charged with revolution- 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 167 

ary designs against the Government. The affair 
being examined into, they were honorably acquitted; 
and subsequently, Figueroa made ample amends to 
the accused. 

For several years past a few evil-minded persons 
had sought the ruin of the Missions in California, by 
dividing their possessions among the Indians. Va- 
rious decrees had passed the Mexican Congress rela- 
tive to their secularization, which w^ere afterwards 
made null by counter resolutions. Here, in the 
territorial department, as I have before observed, 
the same eagerness was also manifested for their 
entire destruction ; and rumors w^ere afloat that the 
determined spirit of Senor Padres, and the love of en- 
terprise in Senor Bandini, the representative of Cali- 
fornia to the Mexican Congress, had formed another 
more effective scheme, for the ruin of these rich and 
flourishing establishments. The administration of 
Gomez Farias, as President of the Republic, was 
favorable to the plan ; and the powerful influence 
of Padres procured from his Excellency his sanction 
to an act of the Mexican Congress, passed on the 
17th of August, 1833, entitled "An Act, for the sec- 
ularization of the Missions of the Californias; for 
the colonization of both territories ; for the appoint- 
ment of Senor Don Jos^ Maria de Hijar 'Gefe politico ' 
.de la Alta California, y Director de la Colonizacion" 
This movement would have been politic as well as 
advantageous, had it not been for other views, 
which time disclosed. The Government, actuated 
by motives of interest for the progress and welfare 
of California, had taken the grand enterprise under 



168 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

its protection ; and " Padres," delighted to see the 
realization of his favorite scheme so near its fulfil- 
ment, procured for himself the appointment of 
'' Sub Director ! " 

This intelligence, together with the instructions 
to Governor Hijar relative to colonization, &c., had 
been published in " El Diario del Govierno," and 
circulated throughout the Missions. It was suffi- 
cient to rouse the spirit of the holy missionaries, 
who had labored the greater part of their lives in 
fostering the interests of the Indians, and they de- 
termined to defeat, if possible, the scheme. If the 
property were to be destro3xd they resolved that 
the natives of the country should reap its benefits as 
long as it lasted, and from this time the work of 
destruction went on. 

At many of the establishments, orders were given 
for the immediate slaughter of their cattle ; con- 
tracts were made, with individuals, to kill them and 
divide their proceeds with the Missions. At St. 
Gabriel, the ruin was more perceptible than at other 
places, owing to the superiority^ of its possessions. 
Thousands of cattle were slain, for their hides only, 
whilst their carcasses remained to decompose upon 
the plains. In this way, a vast amount of tallow 
and beef, was entirel}^ lost. The rascall}^ con- 
tractors, who were enriching themselves so easily, 
were not inclined to avail themselves of this oppor- 
tunity of so doing, to the fullest extent; but, as it 
was, they secretly appropriated two hides for their 
portion, to one on account of the Mission. A wanton 
spirit of destruction seemed to possess tlicm, co-equal 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 169 

with their desire for plunder, and they continued to 
ravage and lay waste. In like manner, other inter- 
ests of the establishments were neglected by the 
missionaries, and gradually fell to decay. His Ex- 
cellency, the Governor, was soon officially apprised 
of the appointment of Senor Hijar to the civil com- 
mand in California, and that a multitude of per- 
sons, of both sexes, were to accompany him as 
colonists, to whom the pay of half a dollar a day 
was assigned till their arrival, with a free passage, 
and maintenance during the voyage. 

Figueroa immediately proceeded to appropriate a 
suitable spot for colonization, and departed for the 
Russian establishment at Ross. He explored the 
adjoining country, where he made choice of a pleas- 
ant location, and placed there a small detachment 
of troops for the defence of the colonists. While 
returning to the capital, and before his arrival, he 
received an " ecstraordinario" from the supreme 
government, which had come all the way from 
Mexico by land. The tenor and purport of the 
communication was an order, from the Secretary of 
State, to the General, not to deliver up the civil 
command to Senor Hijar, but to continue the ful- 
filment of his duties as political governor — that 
Santa Ana had assumed the government, having 
displaced Gomez Farias. By the same conveyance 
he received the first information of the arrival of 
Hijar at the port of St. Diego, in the brig Natalia, 
where he had disembarked on the 1st of September, 
1834, with a portion of the colonists. On the 25th 
of the same month, the Mexican sloop-of-war 



170 lifp: in California. 

" Morelos " arrived at ?Jonterey, with Senor Padres, 
several new officers, and the remainder of the colo- 
nists. 

On account of the distance between Monterey and 
St. Diego, Senor Plijar did not arrive at the seat of 
government till the fourteenth day of October. 
Figueroa received him with public demonstrations 
of friendship and respect, and after the usual com- 
pliments and civilities had passed, lie informed him 
of the recent communication from Mexico. De- 
prived of the political command, Hijar's position as 
director of the colony was unimportant, unless 
aided by the possession of the missionary institu- 
tions. To this investment of powder Figueroa was 
opposed, which produced, much altercation between 
them, and a lengthy correspondence. 

The discussion caused considerable dissatisfaction 
among the colonists, wdio, in the ardour of their 
conversation, made public many matters which, for 
their own honor, they ought to have withheld; for 
thus they revealed the plans of the " Comjmnia Cos- 
mopolitana," as they styled themselves. They pos- 
sessed no capital to act upon, but the interests of 
the missions, which had been granted to them by 
government — that is, Gomez Farias authorized the 
appropriation of fourteen thousand dollars, payable 
in tallow, from the missions in California, for the 
purchase of the brig " Natalia." An unjust project 
indeed ! for no possible benefit could result from it 
to the Indians. They told also, with the same pub- 
licity, that this " Cowimnia " were to monopolize 
the whole commerce of the country ; placing at each 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 171 

mission and t6wn, a house of deposit, and the nec- 
essary number of vessels, on the coast, for the im- 
portation of foreign and domestic goods, and for the 
exportation of the produce of the country. This 
was the object of the colonial expedition that had 
cost the country so many sacrifices ! This was the 
aim of Senor Padres, who had lavished all his 
strength to accomplish it, and which was deserving 
of great merit; evincing, as it did, a proof of his 
eminent patriotism ! 

The Natalia was driven on the beach while lying 
at Monterey, and dashed into thousands of pieces, 
and in a short time not a vestige of the wreck re- 
mained. Thus perished the commencement of their 
speculations, and they were left to the formation of 
other schemes. The Natalia was the vessel, on 
board of which. Napoleon made his escape from the 
island of Elba. 

The colonists were finally located at St. Fran- 
cisco Solano, on the northern side of the port of St. 
Francisco ; where the spirit of anarchy and disorder 
paved the way for a revolution, to separate the po- 
litical command from Figueroa, and place it in the 
person of Senor Hijar ; but the plan was discovered 
and, fortunately, frustrated. 

An individual of the colony, who had been se- 
lected for a Commissioner, from Senor Hijar to the 
Mexican government, proceeded, in company with 
a friend, to the Pueblo de los Angeles, under pre- 
tense of embarking for Mexico ; but the following 
ofiicial announcement of the "Yhistre Ayuntamiento " 
to the Governor, will show^ how false w^as the pre- 
text. 



172 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

" Secretar}^ of the Ylustre Ayuntamiento of the 
'^ Pueblo de los Angeles." "An unorganized body 
" of about fifty persons from Sonora, seduced by the 
"promises and lies of Don Francisco Torres, and 
"Don Antonio Apalategui, have pronounced this 
"morning in favor of a plan, which I have the 
"honor to transmit to your Excellency; the purport 
"of which, is for their own personal benefit. They 
" remained under arms until three o'clock in the 
"afternoon, when Don Juan Gallado, their agent, 
" presented himself at the ' Juzgado,' and delivered 
"over to the authorities, the persons of Torres and 
"Apalategui, who were immediately imprisoned." 
Now for the plan. 

"A multitude of citizens having assembled on the 
seventh day of March, 1835, to take into considera- 
tion the most convenient method to save the terri- 
tory of Alta California from the evils which it had 
suffered, and was still sufi'ering, under the adminis- 
tration of General Don Jose Figueroa, the following 
was considered : first, that this chief has not com- 
plied with divers orders of the Supreme Govern- 
ment of tlie Union, for the improvement of the 
inhabitants of this country ; that abusing their for- 
bearance, he has exceeded the power given him by 
the laws, improperly assuming the political and 
military power, contrary to the Federal system, and 
contrary to the express laws which prohibit this 
union of powers ; that by the law of secularization 
of the Missions he has made a scandalous monop- 
oly, reducing their productions to an exclusive 
commerce ; suppressing the good faith of the ' Ex- 



LIFE IN CALIFOKXIA. 173 

celentisima Diputacion,^ and causing them to regu- 
late to his caprice a general law ; that infringing 
on the privileges of ' Comisarias/ he disposes of the 
soldiers' pay at his own will, without the knowledge 
of the ' Gefe de hacienda,^ and without the formali- 
ties of the law, and regulations required in such 
cases. Secondly — that the territorial ' Dlputacion^ 
had no power to regulate or add a general law, as it 
had done with the secularization of the Missions. 
Thirdly — that, they have reached by gigantic 
strides a state of ruin, by the unauthorized meas- 
ures which have been taken for the seclusion of 
the Indians, and the distribution of their interests ; 
and fourthly — that some Commissioners, either 
from their entire ignorance of the management of 
this class of negotiations, or by their malicious con- 
duct, have endeavored to forward their own private 
interests, ruining, in this manner, those of the Mis- 
sions, to the notable injury of the Indians, who have 
acquired them by their own personal industry; and 
they have agreed to the following. Article 1st. 
Gen. Don Jose Figueroa is declared unworth}^ of 
the confidence of the public ; therefore, the 'Alcalde 
primero Constitucional ' of the capital will take pro- 
visional charge of the political government of the 
territory, and Captain Don Pablo de la Portilla, as 
the senior officer, and next highest in rank, is called 
to the military. 2d. The measures taken by the 
territorial ' diputacion ' respecting the regulating of 
the missions are declared null and void. 3d. The 
Reverend Missionary Fathers will take exclusive 
charge of the temporal affairs of their respective 



174 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

missions, as they have done heretofore, and the 
Commissioners will deliver to this religious order, 
their relative documents of administration. 4th. 
By the anterior article no obstacle will be made 
to the measures of the Director de la Colonizacion, 
that he may fulfil the instructions given to him by 
the Supreme Government. 5th. The present plan 
wdll be subject to the approbation of the General 
Government. 6th. The forces, which have pro- 
nounced for the plan will not leave their arms until 
they have seen realized the above articles, and they 
are constituted the defenders of the administration 
of justice, and its respective authorities." 

Although this revolution commenced and ended 
on the same day, in the " Pueblo de los Angeles," 
yet, in other places it continued to exist, fostered by 
the principal aspirants for power. Under the pre- 
text of establishing the colony, they endeavored to 
organize a force to support their pretensions. For 
this purpose they brought with them from Mexico, 
a quantity of arms and ammunition, which they 
concealed, but which were discovered in time to 
prevent mischief. 

A country like California, requires robust and 
enterprising men — men accustomed to labor in the 
field, and to a life of simplicity and economy. The 
colony, under management of Hijar and Padres, 
was composed of persons of every class, except that 
wbdch would have been useful. Not one agricul- 
turist was to be found among them. They were 
artists and mechanics, who had been allured by the 
accounts of those who were to reap the harvest of 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 175 

this speculation, and made to believe that they could 
soon enrich themselves, in idleness, in this rich and 
fertile countr}- . There were to be seen goldsmiths, 
blacksmiths, carpenters, shoemakers, tailors, paint- 
ers, printers, and musicians; all of whom could 
have gained an honest livelihood in their own 
country. Their disappointment led them into 
many difficulties, and they w^ere accused of revolu- 
tionary designs. Unsuccessful attempts were made 
at different places, which finally resulted in the 
banishment of them and their leaders to Mexico. 
They were embarked at St. Francisco on board of 
the Italian ship "Eosa," and subsequently tran- 
shipped at St. Diego on board of the American 
schooner " Loriot," bound to St. Bias. 

Although this scheme of Padres had been foiled, ^ 
a desire for the accomplishment of the Mexican de- 
cree relative to secularization, was frankly acknowl- 
edged by many Californians. The ^' dipiitacion^' 
^^approximated to the knu" (as was observed by a 
member of that illustrious body), and administra- 
tors were appointed by them to look after the tem- 
poral affairs of the missions. Thus, many of those 
most interested, received appointments, and were 
enabled to enrich themselves with the spoils. Many 
that were poor soon became wealthy, and possessors 
of farms, which they stocked with cattle. In this 
w^ay the ^' Excelentisima Diputacion^^ placed in the 
hands of Seiior Figueroa these valuable institutions. 

The General did not enjoy long the resources thus 
given him. Harassed and tormented continually, 
by repeated attacks of the missionaries and repre- 



176 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

sentations of the Indians, and perplexed by the dis- 
ordered state of the country, his mind and body 
became diseased; till at length, after a few months' 
sickness, he was brought to the grave. His death 
was unfortunate for the country; for his mildness 
of character, added to a knowledge of the art of 
pleasing as well as governing, made him a proper 
representative to guide the Californians. At the 
time this solemn event transpired, the " Excelentisima 
Diputacion" was in session at Monterey; when the 
following preamble and resolutions were offered by 
one of that august assembly. 

Preamble. 

" To perpetuate the memory of the departed Senor 
" General de Brigada Don Jose Figueroa, Comandante 
" General, y Gefe politico de la Alta California. Most 
'' excellent Sir, — Our chief is dead ! The protector 
*' of the Territory — the father of our California — our 
"friend — our adviser — General Don Jos^ Figueroa. 
''The people hover around his funeral couch, and 
" with their eyes fixed upon his inanimate corpse, 
"become dumb, and weep for the hero that death 
"has laid low. The mournful, the unhappy in- 
"telligence flies abroad ; all are afflicted, and plunged 
" in one general sorrow. 

"The bell's doleful sound, and the loud report of 
" artillery, bring forth tears from the heart. All is 
"bitterness — all is grief! The Californians weep for 
" a beneficent father, who has given an incalculable 
"impulse to their prosperity, and with unexampled 
"diligence, with constant and unparalleled exer- 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 177 

" tions, contributed largely to the public weal. For 
''bim, who extinguished the flame of discord, and 
"prevented this virgin land from being sprinkled 
^' with the blood of its children ; — for him who 
'^ planted the olive of peace, and cultivated beneath 
"its shade, those virtues which emanate from the 
"loyal bosoms of these inhabitants; — for him who 
"gave security and extension to agriculture, and 
"protection to our commerce; — for him who knew 
" how to check anarchy, when daringly it approached 
"our peaceful shores; — for him who consoled the 
" widow, shielded the orphan, succored the soldier; — 
"for him who protected merit and encouraged hon- 
"or; — in one word, they weep for him who labored 
"to regulate our social order. Our foreign friends 
"testify, by their grief, their friendship and the ex- 
"alted sense which they had of his superior tact to 
"govern. The savage Indian, the child of the 
"desert, shows in rustic manner that he also feels 
"the loss. The name of General Figueroa is re- 
"peated everywhere; his merits are spoken of, his 
"political prudence; his zeal for the public good; 
"and the gift which he possessed to captivate the 
"will; his honor, his probity were acknowledged by 
"the people, who proclaimed him an eminent pa- 
"triot, and ' de hijo benemeritode la 'patria.'' All praise 
"and acknowledge the excellence of General Fi- 
"gueroa; and shall not the ^ Excel entisima Diputa- 
''cion' express how much it participates in this sor- 
" row ? I see in the worthy members of which it is 
"composed unequivocal proof of the pain caused by 
"the premature death of our beloved chief. This 
" sorrow is just; yes, it is just, it is laudable. Know 



178 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

"all the world, and see, that in 'Alta California' 
" true merit is appreciated. And now, that we have 
" at the foot of the altar, whilst adoring the inscru- 
" table dispensations of the Almighty, implored his 
" divine clemency for the man of whom his omnipo- 
"tency has deprived us; and now^ that we have 
" contributed all the political and military funeral 
"honors due to his rank, let us give {' benemeritos 
^' Diputados') a public and eternal testimony of 
"our gratitude and love for General Figueroa; 
"let us perpetuate his memor}^, and let us give 
"to his obsequies all respect and lienor. Let us 
"immortalize his glory and our gratitude, and 
"encircle his brow with a crown of ^ siempre viva.' 
" Yes, — most excellent sir, listen, and please approve 
" of the following propositions, or resolutions. 

1st. " The portrait of General Don Jose Figueroa 
"shall be placed in the Hall of Sessions of this 
^^' Excelentisima Diputacion' in proof of the es- 
" teem they bear for his distinguished merit. 

2d. "To perpetuate his memory, and the grati- 
"tude of this Corporation, a durable monu- 
"ment shall be erected, with an appropriate 
" inscription, in one of the most public unoccu- 
" pied sites in the capital ; and to fulfil which, 
"the ^ Ilustre Ayuntamiento' shall be authorized 
" to have its sole direction and care. 

3d. "Three copies of these proceedings shall be 
"drawn. One shall be delivered to the execu- 
"tors of our beloved deceased General and 
" Chief, another copy transmitted to his widow 
"and children, and the third shall be passed to 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 179 

"the printer, that it may be annexed to the 

"' manifesto \oi said General, which is now in 

" course of publication. Monterey, 9th of Octo- 

"ber, 1835. . uttt... t? \ v 

' Juan B. Alvarado. 

These resolutions were adopted, and were followed 
by two others, offered by the Secretary. 

1st. "That the three resolutions of Seiior Alva- 
" rado shall be put into execution immediately. 
2d. "That at the bottom of the portrait of Seiior 
" General Don Jos^ Figueroa, shall be affixed 
"the title of ' Bienhechor del terrltorio de la Alta 
" California' Monterey, Oct 14th, 1835. 

"Manuel Jimeno." 

The foregoing document was placed before the 
'' llustre Ayuntamiento," who contemplated placing 
upon the monument the following inscription: 

THE PROVINCIAL DEPUTATION 

AND THE ^^ AYUNTAMIENTO'^ OF MONTEREY 

AT PUBLIC COST, 

IN PROOF OF GRATITUDE, 

DEDICATE THIS MONUMENT 

TO THE ETERNAL MEMORY OF 

GENERAL DON JOSE FIGUEROA, 

MILITARY AND POLITICAL CHIEF 

OF ALTA CALIFORNIA; 

THE FATHER OF THE COUNTRY', 

WHO DIED IN THIS CAPITAL, 

THE 29th of SEPTEMBER, A.D. 1835, 

AGED 43 YEARS. 



180 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

Days ! months ! ! years ! ! ! have rolled awaj^ and 
yet naught has been done to perpetuate the memory 
of this exalted man ! the country's loss ! This serves 
to show a want of sincerity in those ivho most deeply 
deplored Jiis death, and the instability of their char- 
acter. 

The remains of his Excellency were finally em- 
barked in the American brig " Avon/' and carried 
to St. Barbara, where they were deposited in the 
vaults under the Mission church. During their 
conveyance from the vessel to the shore minute 
guns were fired, and a large procession followed to 
their interment. 

By testament of Figueroa, Don Nicolas Gutierez 
succeeded to the command, soon after his arrival 
from St. Gabriel, where he had been charged with 
the temporal care of that mission. But it was for a 
short period. A few months afterwards a vessel 
arrived at Santa Barbara with a new Governor 
named " Chico," who disembarked immediately, and 
proceeded by land to the capital. 

Prejudiced against many of the Californians, and 
violently incensed at the foreign residents, Chico 
commenced a tyranny that soon brought him into 
disgrace; and finally ended in his expulsion from 
the territory. Gutierez assumed the command once 
more, and things went on quietly till a disturbance 
broke out between him and the officers of the Cus- 
tom-House Department. 

The ^' Administrador" of the Customs at this period 
was Don Angel Ramirez, a Mexican, who had for- 
merly held a similar post at Matamoras, and was 



LIFE IX CALIFORXIA. 181 

originally a /rmr 0/ //^c Zacatecas Order. The next 
in authority was Don Juan Bautista Alvarado, a 
native of California, who had figured for several 
years as Secretary to the '' Dijmtadon,'' and had 
been considered one of the bright luminaries of this 
lovely hemisphere. His early education commenced 
(as did that of most young men in California) under 
the patronage and tuition of one of the holy Mis- 
sionaries. Possessed of good natural talents, he was 
quick to learn ; so that from frequent intercourse 
with the foreign residents in the country, he had 
acquired considerable of the English language. 
This gave him access to their amusements and con- 
vivialities, and prepared for him that support which 
he subsequently received. It was with Don Juan that 
Gutierez quarrelled, in consequence of some neces- 
sary etiquette that should have passed between them 
relative to the placing of guards at the landing- 
places. A violent dispute took place, with some 
high-sounding threats, which ended in an order 
from Gutierez for his arrest. But escaping from the 
town, he flew to the protection of his friends. 

There Avere many Englishmen and Americans 
living in the suburbs of Monterey; and on the route 
to St. Francisco, at a place called " Natividad," there 
dwelt a bold Tennesseean, whose name was Gra- 
ham. He had pioneered his way across the Rocky 
Mountains, in company with several others, who, 
like him, preferred the hunter's fare to a life of ease 
and comfort in their own country. Finding in 
Upper California a climate suited to his taste, he 
had located himself there, and erected a rude dwell- 



182 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

ing, wliere he followed the distilling of spirit from 
grain. Here, at this rude hut, our hero, Don Juan, 
stopped and told his story; explained his plan of 
revenge, and begged the influence and aid of the 
Tennesseean. His pleadings were not in vain. 
"Go you," said Graham, "go you, and gather to- 
gether your friends in the north, and I will call 
around me here, a force that will make the old 
devil of a Mexican tremble." In a few days a force 
of fifty riflemen, headed by Captain Graham, and 
one hundred Californians under command of I)on. 
Jose Castro, were encamped near a wood in the rear 
of the capital. Here a consultation was held by 
the officers, and an agreement entered into between 
Graham and Alvarado, that in case of success 
against the Mexican governor, and obtaining pos- 
session of the country, it should be declared inde- 
pendent of Mexico. 

The combined forces entered the capital under 
cover of night, and took possession of its fort witli- 
out firing a single shot. Gutierez was shut up in 
the Presidio, with his soldiers, who numbered double 
those of his enemies. When morning came, parley- 
ing commenced, and continued some time, without 
any advantageous result to either party, till, at 
length, a brass four-pounder levelled at the house 
of Gutierez, sent a ball through its roof, Avhich 
brought him to immediate terms. The Mexican 
troops laid down their arms ; then, Alvarado and 
Castro, at the head of their valiant party, marched 
triumphantly to the " Plaza." 

Senor Alvarado, by unanimous consent, was placed 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 183 

at the head of the government, and Senor Guada- 
loupe Vallejo was called upon to take the military 
command. On the 7th of November, 1836, the fol- 
lowing resolutions were proclaimed to the inhabi- 
tants of Monterey. 1st. " Upper California is de- 
''clared to be independent of Mexico, during the 
"noii-re-establishmentof the Federal system, which 
"was adopted in the year 1824. 2d. The said Cali- 
"fornia shall be erected into a free and governing 
"state; establishing a Congress, which shall dictate 
"all the particular laws of the country; and elect 
"the other supreme powers necessary ; declaring the 
"actual 'Most Excellent Deputation' constituent. 
"3d. The Religion shall be the Roman Catholic 
" Apostolic, without admitting the exercise of any 
"other; but the government will not molest any 
" persons for their particular religious opinions. 4th. 
" A constitution shall regulate all the branches of 
" the administration ' provisionally,' in conformity, 
"as much as possible, with the expressed declara-' 
"tion. 5th. Until what is contained in the fore- 
" going articles be put into execution, ' Senor Don 
"Mariano Guadaloupe Vallejo' shall be called upon 
"to act as Commandant-General. 6th. The Presi- 
" dent of the ' Most Excellent Deputation ' shall pass 
" the necessary communications to the municipali- 
" ties of the territory." 

The expulsion of Gutierez, his officers and troops, 
together with other Mexicans, followed these pro- 
ceedings. Undoubtedly, the principal actors, in 
the formation of this new constitution, were the ex- 
Friar Don Angel Ramirez and Don Cosme Pena, a 



184 LIFE IX CALIFORNIA. 

Mexican lawyer. It was reported, at the time, that 
a flag had been prepared for the new Republic, and 
deposited in the house of the former. It was the 
Texian — the Lone Star ! They never made use of it, 
however, but continued to administer their govern- 
ment under the Mexican banner. 

Several Mexican vessels lying at anchor, in the 
liarbor of Monterey, were taken possession of, by the 
Californians, but were subsequently released, and 
permitted to depart. One of them proceeded, imme- 
diately, to St. Bias with the important intelligence, 
which was communicated, forthwith, to the Mexican 
government. Furious proclamations against these 
daring rebels were issued, and an appeal was made 
to the citizens for their patriotic assistance, to crush, 
with one mighty blow, such audacious presump- 
tion. A formidable expedition was to proceed to 
California, but, after a while, the excitement sub- 
sided, and the Californians were permitted to gov- 
ern themselves. This being (in the opinion of the 
Mexicans) the best method of chastisement. 

However, as yet, Alvarado was uninformed of the 
views entertained by his countrymen at the south ; 
and, consequently ignorant of the effect produced 
by his proclamation. He accordingly despatched 
Jose Castro to St. Barbara, whom he empowered to 
treat with its inhabitants. The fifty riflemen, with 
the Tennesseean at their head, accompanied the 
Plenipotentiary, and they were quite sufficient to 
pioneer the way for Alvarado, who soon followed, 
and took up his quarters at the Mission. 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 18- 



CHAPTER XI. 

Echeandia's Policy.— Don Carlos Carrillo appointed Governor.— 
War against his Nephew.— Is defeated.— Singular Approval of 
the Mexican Government.- Central Government.— Alvarado's 
wounded Dignity.— His Disgust for the Foreigners.— False 
Charges of Rebellion.— Seizure and Imprisonment of the For- 
eigners. —Their Banishment to Mexico. — Proclamation of 
Alvarado.— Arrival of an American and a French Sloop of 
War.— Consternation of Alvarado.— Satisfaction given to the 
Captain of the St. Louis.— Desertion of St. Diego.— Conse- 
quences of Secularization.— A Ride to the Pueblo.— Return of 
the Foreigners.— Mines.— Anglo-Californian Justice.— Tem- 
blores.—Bodeo.—Sad Incident.— Important News.— Arrival of 
a Bishop.— His Reception.— Arrival of Sir George Simpson 
and Governor McLaughlin. 

LIKE their illustrious predecessors, the Califor- ' 
nians seemed to think that the Missions were 
their own, to make use of as necessity required. So, 
like true professors of Echeandia's policij, they plun- 
dered and permitted plunder. Such a depraved 
system was not likely to succeed long; enemies 
were created from envy, and soon began to appear. 
In the '' Pueblo de Los Angeles" a party was 
formed which avowed adherence to Mexico. This 
was followed by an express from Mexico, with docu- 
ments, constituting and appointing Don Carlos Car- 
rillo, " Governador de la Alia California^ 

Don Carlos, incited by a few friends, declared war 



186 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

against his nephew Alvarado, which was unsuccess- 
ful. He, and his advisers, were taken prisoners. 
The latter were sent to the Presidio of Sonoma, on 
the north side of St. Francisco; while the former, 
was confined in his house at St. Barbara. 

Our hero, Alvarado, having so unceremoniously 
disposed of his uncle, Carrillo, prepared an account 
of his proceedings, for the Mexican government. A 
messenger was despatched to St. Bias, who promptly 
returned, with their entire approval of Alvarado's 
conduct. But it was necessary to appease the van- 
quished party, and Carrillo was presented with the 
island of St. Rosa, as a testimonial of the govern- 
ment's high regard. The central government was 
now recognized ; Castro was appointed Prefect of the 
northern district, and Cosme Pena of the southern. 
Thus, Upper California formed two districts, eacli 
representing a state government, subject to the 
jurisdiction of the supreme power at Monterey. A 
new " Diputado " to the Mexican Congress was elected, 
and matters wxnt on quietly, whilst the " Presidios," 
at the different places, were suffered to fall to ruin. 
At St. Diego, the officer in command was permitted 
to unroof the houses and the church, and dispose of 
the tiles to meet demands, which he had against the 
government. The forts were neglected, and Alva- 
rado cared little for the safety of any other place but 
the one where he was located. 

Thus, firmly established in power, the governor 
felt more sensibly the dignity of his situation, and 
wished to put an end to the freedom with which his 
rude foreign friends were wont to treat him. He 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 187 

became more reserved ; he was ever " not at home " 
to their calls, and avoided them at all times. Such 
ingratitude was not to be borne by the Tennesseean ! 
No ! he boldly told him to his teeth, that to him he 
owed his elevation. Every day his disgust increased 
for " los malditos estrangeros," and an opportunity to 
rid himself of their importunities and threats, soon 
offered. 

Graham had a fine horse, which he had trained 
for the turf, and had challenged the whole country 
to the course. At length, a countryman of his, resid- 
ing in the " Pueblo de Los Angeles," made arrange- 
ments to run the noble gelding, with a high-mettled 
racer from St. Diego. A document was drawn up 
on the occasion, which was intended, solely, to bind 
more strictly the parties interested. This document 
was construed into a plan for overturning the gov- 
ernment — a plan to plunder, and destroy, what was 
left of the Missions — a plan to deprive the Califor- 
nians of their lives and country. As ridiculous as 
this may appear to the reader, nevertheless, it is a 
fact, to which I can testify, from information I re- 
ceived on the spot, shortly after its occurrence. This 
intelligence was secretly conveyed to all the author- 
ities throughout the country, with explicit orders 
from Governor Alvarado, to secure and imprison 
the foreigners. But to take the Tennesseean, it 
was thought requisite to send an armed force, under 
the command of the renowned Jose Castro ! The 
manner in which they managed to get possession of 
his person, has been already stated in other publi- 
cations. Suffice it to say, our countryman was 



188 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

asleep in his rude dwelling, when the report of a 
pistol awakened him, and he sprang quickly towards 
the door. Several villains, discharged other pistols 
at him, so near, as to fire his shirt in many places. 
He attempted to escape, but was seized, and dragged 
to prison. 

As soon as practicable on the part of the govern- 
ment, a vessel was chartered, and the Americans 
and Englishmen who had been collected at the dif- 
ferent points, were embarked in chains, and sent to 
St. Bias. 

This achievement w^as followed by a public ex- 
pression of thanks to the Omnipotent power, who 
thus saved California from destruction. Mass was 
performed, and at its conclusion the following bom- 
bastic proclamation was distributed. 

JUAN BAUTISTA ALVARADO, 

GOVERNADOR CONSTITUCIONAL 

DEL DEPARTAMENTO DE LAS CALIFORNIAS, 

TO ITS INHABITANTS. 

" Fellow-citizens ! a sordid and mercenary faction, 
'' incited by some ungrateful foreigners, whom you 
"had received to your hospitable land, purposed to 
"deprive you of the richest of treasures, your lives 
" and country ; and sacrifice to their ungovernable 
"desires the highest authorities. ^ El Govierno De- 
'^ partamental,' with the assistance of its subalterns, 
" and the honorable military garrison, was enabled 
" to smother the conspiracy at its commencement. 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 189 

" The necessary proceedings were taken, but for want 
'' of a competent tribunal, the villains were sent to 
"the Supreme Government, together with the lead- 
" ers of the faction, and a multitude of other foreign- 
" ers, who were illegally introduced into the country, 
" and who had no other object here but the increase 
"of public disorder. They were deserters from 
" merchant vessels, and vessels of war, who were 
"secretly hidden in the ' mnchos' and woods, and 
"against them we have proceeded, according to the 
"powers conceded to the government by article 12th 
"of the law of the 1st May, 1828. 

" Fellow-citizens ! I can assure you that the coun- 
"try has been saved from imminent danger; for 
"which I ought to congratulate you, recommend- 
" ing to your generosity and friendship those who 
" ought to be considered as Mexicans, and who re- 
" side in the country under the protection of its 
"laws; manifesting by this, your natural inclina- 
" tion to order, and the hospitality with which you 
"have always received strangers. And rest as- 
"sured that the government will use every means in 
" its power to insure the peace of this precious por- 
"tion of the nation, relying upon your constant and 
"pure patriotism, in which your fellow-citizen will 

"ever join with you 

"Juan Bautista Alvarado." 

This important event took place in April, 1840. 
Had the Californians been wise enough to have ex- 
amined into the charges, and chastised where chas- 
tisement was due, the affair would have ended 



190 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

wliere it commenced ; but, erring, as they always 
did, when meddling with foreign interests, they 
were sure to be on the wrong side. 

What must have been their surprise, when one da}^ 
towards the last of June, a French ship of war en- 
tered their port, and anchored close to the beach, so 
as to bring her guns to bear directly upon the town ! 
What must have been their terror when immedi- 
ately afterwards came another ship, bearing at her 
peak the broad stripes of our country ! "I come 
for vengeance," said the first, '' why have you killed 
a Frenchman?" "I come for justice," said the 
other, " what have you been doing with my coun- 
trymen ? " Alvarado was now fallen indeed ! His 
valiant Castro had gone to Mexico with the prison- 
ers, and Vallejo was more than two hundred miles 
off. Resistance was impossible, and retreat to a 
neighboring mission, by feigning a disturbance 
amongst the Indians there, was hit upon as being 
the most plausible method of getting out of an 
awkward dilemma. So, one morning early, he very 
unceremoniously departed. This was the satisfaction 
given to our captain of the St. Louis ! 

After the ships of war had sailed, the Governor came 
back, when I called upon him to arrange some 
affairs of my own ; for I had just returned to Cali- 
fornia after an absence of two years. We had some 
conversation respecting the expulsion of the for- 
eigners, their reported conspiracy, the arrival of the 
St. Louis, and also, respecting the officer who had 
been left on shore b}^ her commander, to look after 
the interests of the American residents. 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 191 

Senor Alvarado firmly believed in the intention 
of Graham to revolntionize the country, although 
possessed of no facts to prove it. " I was insulted," 
he said, "at every turn, by the drunken followers 
of Graham ; and when walking in the garden they 
would come to its wall, and call upon me in terms 
of the greatest familiarity : ' Ho ! Bautista, come 
here, I want to speak to you.' — ' Bautista, here.' — 
* Bautista, there ' — and Bautista every where." No 
doubt the Governor had reason to be dissatisfied ; 
but I really believe that there were others more to 
be blamed than Alvarado, for the outrage com- 
mitted upon our countrymen. " Mexico was respon- 
sible for his conduct," he said, " and if he had 
erred — why, Mexico must suffer the consequences ! " 
He observed, that he could not receive the officer, 
who had been landed from the St. Louis, as a diplo- 
matic character, but would give him all the pro- 
tection and hospitality due to a worthy citizen of the 
United States. 

Affairs continued under the control of Juan Bau- 
tista, without any important occurrence, excepting a 
breach which occurred between him and Vallejo, 
who had retired to his place of residence at So- 
noma. 

At this period of events, I embarked on board of 
the ship Alert, and again visited St. Diego. Here 
everything was prostrated — the Presidio ruined — 
the Mission depopulated — the town almost deserted, 
and its few inhabitants miserably poor. It had 
changed! From being once the life of, and most 
important place in California, it had now become 



192 LIFE IX CALIFORNIA. 

the gloomiest and most desolate. With great diffi- 
culty I succeeded in procuring horses to return 
north, by land, and in doing which the person with 
whom I contracted compelled me to pay an enor- 
mous compensation. For a distance which I had 
often performed, during the flourishing state of the 
missionary establishments, at an expense of five or six 
dollars, I had now to pay forty ! So much for secu- 
larization! so much for the Californian Govern- 
ment! I started in company with friend Melius. 
We arrived at the Mission of St. Luis Eey early, 
and partook of the hospitality of Don Jos^ Antonio 
Estudillo, who had been recently appointed Admin- 
istrador of the Institution. His daughters had 
grown up to be young ladies, and were said to be 
engaged to two European Spaniards. After pass- 
ing the night with Don Jose Antonio, we continued 
on, next morning, passing St. Juan in our route, 
and, at an advanced hour of the day, halted for 
refreshment. Whilst doing so, a guide who had 
accompanied us through the journey, cautioned us 
to be careful of our horses, but the warning had 
scarcely escaped his lips when off they started, in 
different directions, at a rapid rate. Fortunately, 
one stopped, upon which he (the guide) mounted in 
pursuit. Night came on, and four hours elapsed 
ere he returned, bringing with him one of the extra 
horses, and the one on wdiich I had performed the 
journey. His own horse, to which was affixed our 
portmanteau, with two others, were missing. It 
being then eight o'clock at night, we resumed our 
journey, upon the worn-out animals, trotted over an 



LIFE IX CALIFORNIA. 193 

extensive plain, where, at times, the wind came in 
gusts from the mountains, and reached '' El Rancho 
de Santa Ana " almost dead from fatigue. As we 
alighted at the house, a dolt of a fellow accosted us, 
and said we could not be admitted, for " AUi estan 
las mugeres," — " The women are there," so we were 
obliged to put up with a coarse kind of bed, outside 
the house, in the corridor. Tired, we soon fell 
asleep, and did not awake till late next morning. 
Continuing our journey for the Pueblo, we stopped 
at the house of Tomas Yorba ; again, at " El Rancho 
Nietos," and arrived early at the town. 

We took up our quarters with Mr. Abel Stearns, 
who came from Mexico in 1829 with Senor Noriega, 
and was now a merchant, doing an extensive busi- 
ness with the " Pueblanos." Having failed in his 
project of colonization, he had resorted to this mode 
of obtaining a livelihood, and, in so doing, had 
amassed a handsome property. His house, the 
handsomest in the town, was a place of resort for- 
the Americans who occasionally visited " Los 
Angeles ; " which, in consequence of its dimensions, 
was called by the natives " el Palacio de Don Abel." 
Being a warm politician, something of a surveyor, 
and a physician, they looked upon him as the man 
of the village ; seeking for him to officiate in either 
capacity, as occasion required. He had been elected 
to the honorable dignity of " Syndico " to the 
" Ylustre Ayuntamiento" and had been lauded for 
the zeal with which he discharged the duties of his 
office; but no higher public occupation, I believe, 
had ever fallen to his lot. 



194 LIFE IX CALIFORXIA. 

Leaving the Pueblo, we proceeded towards St. 
Pedro, where we embarked and sailed for Monterey. 
While sojourning here, in July, 1842, the Mexican 
schooner Columbine came into port from St. Bias, 
and anchored. The Custom-House barge put off, 
to pay the usual visit. Rumors were circulated 
that her deck was crammed with men. Some 
thought they were Mexican troops. Some said they 
were ^' presidarios,^' — and some, (jokingly) that they 
were Graham's party. In the meantime the boat 
returned, and the truth was ascertained. Graham 
and his party had returned. The indefatigable 
Tennesseean had achieved an honorable conveyance 
back, and was enabled to face again the author of 
his disgrace. What were the feelings of Alva- 
rado ? He would have prevented their landing, but 
dared not interfere with a determination of the 
supreme power, when backed, or rather enforced, by 
English and American influence. They came on 
sliore, dressed neatly, armed with rifles and swords, 
and looking in infinitely better condition than 
when they departed ; thanks to the energetic meas- 
ures of the British consul ! His prompt interference 
and authoritative manner procured their immediate 
release in Tepic, and the imprisonment of their 
Californian guard ; thus turning the tables com- 
pletely upon the Californians. The Mexican gov- 
ernment was obliged to maintain them, during 
their detention in Mexico, and finally chartered a 
vessel to carry them back. Castro's conduct under- 
went a strict investigation, and it is said that it 
would have gone hard with him, if he had not 



LIFE IX CALIFORNIA. 195 

managed to escape through the connivance of his 
government. 

The foreigners, thus restored to their former resi- 
dences, were permitted to resume their various oc- 
cupations. 

My friends Hartnell and Spence had dissolved 
their business connexion ; and whilst the latter con- 
tinued in the same line of employment, with the 
additional responsibility of ^'Alcalde Constitucional" 
of the place, the former had retired to one of the 
loveliest of spots, called " El Alisal," to educate 
young men for a business or professional life. 

I had an opportunity one day to witness the wis- 
dom of Spence's judicial proceedings. A "Banchero " 
who had visited one of the American trading ships, 
saw among many things that were to be seen in the 
trade-room, a trunk, to which he took an extraor- 
dinary fancy. Its price w^as asked of the writer, then 
supercargo, and a bargain was struck between the 
two The trunk could not, however, be delivered, till 
emptied of its contents ; and the " ranchero " con- 
sented to await the ship's return from San Fran- 
cisco, ere he received it. The vessel sailed, and in 
a few weeks returned to Monterey. Among the 
first who went on board was the " ra7ichero" de- 
manding his trunk. It was shown to him, but he 
denied its being the one for which he bargained ; 
he must either have that one or the money, which 
(without the knowledge of the supercargo) he had 
given to a friend who was on board at the time he 
made the bargain, and who had requested that the 
trunk might be charged in his account. A violent 



196 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

dispute ensued, till, at length, the supercargo, worn 
out and irritated beyond measure, requested a boat 
from the first officer, and then told the " rancher o " 
if he did not walk into it quickly he would have to 
swim, for the mate would throw him overboard. 
This induced him to retreat ; but he went off utter- 
ing threats and curses against the " maldito Ingles^ 
Arriving on shore, he repaired immediately to the 
^^Juzgado," and laid his complaint before the "Al- 
calde.'^ On the following morning the supercargo 
was summoned to appear forthwith, to answer to a 
charge of fraud. Repairing to the place of justice, 
he listened to the story of his accuser, and then ex- 
plained to the "^^ca^de" the circumstances as they 
occurred. The cause was argued by the parties 
interested, as is invariably the case in California, 
and it rested upon the ^'Alcalde's" decision, which 
was a delicate point ; the defendant being a for- 
eigner, like himself, and the accuser a Californian. 
If he should decide in favor of the supercargo, it would 
be partiality ; if in favor of the ranchero, injustice. 
Therefore, the following judicious decision was 
passed. The supercargo was compelled to take an 
order upon the person who received the money, to 
collect the same, if possible, and remit it to the 
^^Ilustre Ayuntamiento," on account of the individual 
interested. The Californian appeared well satisfied 
in his own mind that he had gained his point; and 
the supercargo had no objection, on the other hand, 
to oblige his friend the ^^ Alcalde.'^ 

During this visit to Monterey, I accompanied 
Hartnell to his ''Alisal" which is a romantic spot, 



LIFE IN CALIFORXIA. 197 

in a Yalle}^ between large hills covered with trees. 
In the centre, a fine stream winds its way towards 
an extensive plain, and supplies the Lagunas, 
where the cattle resort to drink. There are fine 
gardens, and plent}' of good ground for cultivation. 
Tlie soil, on the highlands, has the appearance of 
possessing mineral qualities, and, a short distance 
from the house, may be seen an excavation, from 
which considerable quantities of silver ore had been 
obtained. It was the first mine discovered in Cali- 
fornia. Others were subsequently found at differ- 
ent points in the country, and at one time the 
mania for mining was so great, that every old 
woman had her specimens of what she called ore. 
Finally, a rich mine of placer gold was, by chance, 
discovered, near the Mission of San Fernando. It 
extends for several leagues through a valley. Some 
of its gold has already found its way to the United 
States, and quantities have been carried to Mexico. 
While passing the night at " El Alisal,'' I w^as sud- 
denly awakened by a sound, resembling the report 
of heavy artillery, accompanied by the jarring of 
the house. Women screamed, children cried, and 
as I groped through the dark, towards the door, 
I heard the cry, " Temblor!'' Some were for throw^- 
ing themselves from the windows, others leaped 
down the stairway ; and for a few minutes w^e had 
one of the most confused scenes imaginable. The 
fright subsiding, Hartnell stopped at my room, in his 
search for damage, and said the walls beneath were 
badly rent ; that this was the twenty-fifth shock 
they had experienced within the last two months. 



198 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

One clay, they had five successive shocks, which 
made the whole building tremble violently. Fre- 
quent as these occurrences are, they are confined to 
this spot alone; their cause, I presume, may be at- 
tributed to the existence of mineral formations in 
the earth. 

A rodeo was held on the following day, when 
all the neighboring rancheros, as usual, were in- 
vited to attend. It was for the purpose of brand- 
ing and marking the cattle belonging to Hartnell 
who, for his family's amusement, had erected a plat- 
form near the scene of action, that they might better 
witness the proceedings. This operation is per- 
formed once every year, by all holders of cattle, and 
is conducted as follows. After collecting the ani- 
mals from tlie different points of the farm, into one 
body, a portion of them are driven into a " corral,'' 
where they are branded with the mark of the 
owner, and the operation of castration is performed 
on the calves. This being completed, they are let 
out and and driven off, others taking their places ; 
and thus, the process continues until all have passed 
the inspection of the operators. This sometimes 
occupies several days, and, while it continues, the 
young men have an excellent opportunity of dis- 
playing their skill in horsemanship. 

Returning to Monterey, I took passage on board 
of a Mexican vessel, and proceeded to Santa 
Barbara. Here I received intelligence of the arrival 
of Castro, from Mexico, and of his having been sud- 
denly taken ill on the road, which undoubtedly 
proceeded from the excitement, caused by intelli- 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 



199 



gence having been given to him, that Graham and 
his followers had preceded him, and were actually 
in the country. Being enabled, however, in a few 
days to resume his journey, the "Coronei;' as he 
was now styled, made his grand entrance into the 
town. No guns were fired on the occasion, nor was 
there any martial display of troops ; but a few of 
his dearest friends went forth to meet him. The 
Comandmite of the place, was one who had worn 
himself grey in service, and had served under royal 
authority, before Castro was born ; yet, because he 
was a gachupin, he was obliged to be contented 
with the rank of Captain, whilst others, who were 
once boys under his tuition, were denominated 
''Coronels" and Generals. Rumor had preceded 
Castro, of his having escaped from the authorities 
of Mexico ; to ascertain the truth of which, the 
^^Comandante" sent an officer to demand his pass- 
port. The requisition was contested in a message 
full of insult. This, the old veteran could nqt 
brook, but sat himself down, and wrote a communi- 
cation to the " valiant Coronel," which soon brought 
him to his presence. He had no passport with hmi. 
He said " it had been carelessly left in his trunk, 
"supposing that no one would demand it: however, 
"as soon as the trunk came to hand, he would send 
"him the document for inspection." This was sat- 
isfactory, and he departed. 

Business called me to the Rancho del Refugio, 
where the ship Alert had been despatched to be 
laden with hides and tallow; and, having wit- 
nessed almost their entire embarkation, I returned. 



200 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

On the morning of the following day, which was 
Sunday, the ship was in sight, but at a long dis- 
tance from the shore. I went to church, and on 
my return homeward, she having approached 
nearer, I observed her colors were hoisted at half- 
mast. My first conjecture was, that some one had 
been lost overboard, or had been drowned in em- 
barking the hides at the Refugio. The ship came 
to, however, and the colors were run up to their 
proper place. Presuming the position of the flag- 
was accidental, I thought no more of it, until 
Captain Phelps came on shore, and informed me of 
the melancholy loss of one of the boys. The poor 
fellow had gone in to bathe, and after wading up to 
his middle, had thrown himself forward to swim; 
not being aware of the powerful under-current, he 
was speedily taken outside of the surf, beyond his 
depth, and drowned. The captain was employed 
all the afternoon in searching for his body ; but not 
succeeding in finding it, he off'ered a reward to several 
natives who had arrived at the beach, to continue 
the search, and if they found it, to take it to the 
town. About mid-day a person came to the house 
of the Comandante, with the body rolled up in 
blankets and mats, and thrown across a cargo mule. 
From thence it was taken on board the ship. The 
carpenter prepared a cofiin, and the next day was 
appointed for the funeral. 

At 10 o'clock a gun was fired from the ship, the 
colors were all hoisted at half-mast, and the coffin 
was gently lowered into one of the boats, which was 
manned by young lads, who pulled for the shore. 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 201 

Another boat followed with the greater portion of the 
crew. Arriving at the beach, the coffin, shrouded 
by the American ensign, was transferred to a bier, 
and borne along slowly by the boys towards the 
grave. The men followed in the rear, as also the 
captain and supercargo, with many of the foreign 
residents. 

Thus we slowly proceeded through the centre of 
the town, till we reached the place of burial, which 
was a short distance in the rear, and adjoining an 
enclosure where were deposited the remains of Mr. 
Hardy Pierce, of Massachusetts. The usual funeral 
prayers w^ere read by the captain, and at their con- 
clusion poor Lowell w^as committed to his narrow 
bed — the grave — in a foreign land, and thousands 
of miles from his mother, brothers and sisters. As 
the earth fell upon his remains, we, one by one, re- 
tired from the scene, deeply impressed with the im- 
portance of being fully prepared, ourselves, for a 
like sudden dispensation of the Almighty. 

For a great length of time the Californians had 
been in anxious expectation of the coming of a 
bishop, who had been appointed for their diocese 
by his holiness, the Pope. At length a courier 
arrived from St. Diego, on the 16th of December, 
1841, announcing the fact of his having disem- 
barked at that place. He came passenger on board 
of an English brig from San Bias, accompanied by 
several priests, two schoolmasters, three schoolmis- 
tresses, and four novitiates. The news was received 
with the most enthusiastic expressions of joy by the 
inhabitants of Santa Barbara ; guns were fired, and 



202 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

skyrockets let off in every direction. At the Mission 
the bells rang a merry peal, and the music of the 
band was heard at intervals, as its harmonious 
sounds floated through the air. 

Several days subsequent to this demonstration of 
joy, we had an exhibition of the Pastores by the 
Indians of the Mission. They had been practising 
for some time, under the direction of Padre Antonio 
Jimeno, and a great triumph was therefore antici- 
pated over the performances of the gente de razon.'^ 
This exhibition took place on Sunday afternoon, 
in the courtyard of Senor Noriega, where four or 
five hundred persons were collected, to enjoy the 
amusement. Their performances were pronounced 
excellent, and I think they far surpassed those of 
the whites, which I had witnessed some years pre- 
vious, at St. Diego. At the conclusion of the Pas- 
tores, a celebrated juggler came forward, and 
amused us a half hour longer, with some expert, 
and wonderful tricks of legerdemain. 

The schooner Leonidas arrived, from St. Diego, 
with the intelligence of the Bishop's intended em- 
barkation at that place, in the barque Guipuzcoana. 
Her owner, Don Jos^ x^ntonio Aguirre, had lately 
married there, the daughter of Senor Estudillo, and 
designed bringing his wife to Santa Barbara, where 
he had been preparing for some time previous, a 
suitable residence. The venerable Bishop, and his 
retinue, had been invited to accompany the bridal 
party, and it was too good an opportunity for him 
to accomplish the remainder of his journey, to 

* The white peoi>le. 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 203 

admit of a refusal. Great preparations were made, 
upon hearing this news, and all were anxious for 
the Bishop's arrival; for he was a functionary tliat 
but very few in California had ever beheld. 

The vessel was in sight on the morning of tlie 
11th of January, 1842, but lay becalmed and rolling 
to the ocean's swell. A boat put off from her side, 
and approached the landing-place. One of the at- 
tendants of his Excellency, who came in it, repaired 
to the Mission, to communicate with the Father 
President. All was bustle ; men, women, and chil- 
dren hastening to the beach, banners flying, drums 
beating, and soldiers marching. The whole popu- 
lation of the place turned out, to pay homage to this 
first Bisho]"> of California. At eleven o'clock the 
vessel anchored. He came on shore, and was wel- 
comed by the kneeling multitude. All received his 
benediction — all kissed the pontifical ring. The 
troops, and civic authorities, then escorted him to 
the house of Don Jos^ Antonio, where he dined. A 
carriage had been prepared for his Excellenc}^, 
which was accompanied by several others, occupied 
by the President and his friends. The females had 
formed, with ornamental canes, beautiful arches, 
through which the procession passed; and as it 
marched along, the heavy artillery of the "Pre- 
sidio " continued to thunder forth its noisy welcome. 
At the time he left the barque she was enveloped in 
smoke, and the distant report of her guns, was heard 
echoing among the hills in our rear. 

The bride, with her mother and her sisters, re- 
mained on board till afternoon, when they, also, re- 
paired to the festive scene. 



204 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

At four o'clock, the Bishop was escorted to the 
Mission, and when a short distance from the town, 
the enthusiastic inhabitants took the horses from 
his carriage, and dragged it themselves. Halting at 
a small bower, on the road, he alighted, went into 
it, and put on his pontifical robes ; then resuming his 
place in the carriage, he continued on, amidst the 
sound of music and the firing of guns, till he arrived 
at the church, where he addressed the multitude that 
followed him. 

The Reverend Bishop Francisco Garcia Diego, is 
a Mexican, and a Friar of the Franciscan order. He 
had been a teacher of theology in Mexico, and after- 
wards, in 1833, was Comisario Prefedo of the Mis- 
sions of Upper California. Having passed several 
years in the countr}^ he knew well how to work 
upon the minds of the Californians, in order to win 
their esteem, and to make himself popular. Santa 
Barbara was selected to be the "Episcopal See;" 
and plans were drawn up, for the erection of his 
Palace, a Cathedral, a Monastery, and a Theological 
School. The inhabitants were called upon to unite 
in forwarding these plans, and the Bishop trusted 
for resources to the Fonda Piadosa de \Cal{forma, 
'' Pious fund of California," in Mexico, for their 
accomplishment. Large piles of stones were heaped 
up, in several places, for laying the foundations of 
the above-named edifices ; but, as the Mexican gov- 
ernment has seen proper to appropriate this fund to 
less pious purposes, there they will undoubtedly re- 
main, for some years, as monuments of the frailty of 
human speculations. 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 205 

About this time, on the arrival of the Hudson Bay 
Company's barque "Cowlitz," we were visited by Sir 
George Simpson, Governor McLaughlin, and others, 
who were passengers on board. They came to Cali- 
fornia for the purpose of obtaining information rel- 
ative to the character of the country, and making 
arrangements for the transportation of horned cattle 
to Oregon. An agent had been left at San Fran- 
cisco, where they had previously touched, to accom- 
plish the scheme, and at Montere}^ they had arranged 
with Alvarado for the delivery of the cattle at the 
northern missions. Thus large quantities of sheep 
and bullocks were driven to the Columbia. This 
served to establish the fact of the facility of com- 
munication between the two countries. The agency 
has been continued at San Francisco, and at one 
time it was said that the company intended to mo- 
nopolize the trade on the coast, and put an end to 
all competition, as it had done at the north. Their 
establishing a commercial d^pot at this particular 
point, San Francisco, might suggest to the minds of 
some persons that it was intended for an introduc- 
tion to further acquisitions. However, that is no 
business of mine. The country would prosper un- 
der their jurisdiction, as it undoubtedly must, if it 
should ever come under our own. Whatever may 
be its fate, it can never be in worse hands than the 
present. 



206 LIFE IX CALIFORNIA. 



CHAPTER XII. 

A Merienda. — A Trip into the Interior.— Rancho de San 
Juan del Rio— Arrival of Micheltorena.— His Reception at 
St. Diego— Mexican Soldiery !— A Bull-fight.— War with the 
United States. — Capture of Monterey by the American 
Squadron under Commodore Jones. — Micheltorena' s Flight. 
— His Subsequent Return and Establishment at Monterey. — 
Another Revolution. — A Battle.— Defeat of Micheltorena. — 
Expulsion of the Mexicans. — A New Governor. 

WHILE preparing for a trip to San Diego, and 
about to leave, I received an invitation to 
participate in a ^' merienda, ^^ which was to be given 
by Dona Maria Antonia Noriega. As strangers who 
visit Santa Barbara are often entertained in this 
way, a description of this may be interesting. 

Early on the day appointed, I found all busily 
employed in preparing for the entertainment, and 
that several ox-carts laden with children, and ser- 
vant girls, were about to start off. The company 
were to assemble at the house of Don Anastasio 
Carrillo, a brother of Dona Maria Antonia. All 
having arrived there, and the necessary arrange- 
ments being concluded, at the word of command 
our Gananes, or drivers, stuck the points of their 
long poles into the sides of the oxen, and the pro- 
cession started for the Laguna blanca, the place 
selected for the scene of our diversion. 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 207 

The cart of Dona Maria Antonia took the lead, 
drawn by two stout oxen. It contained, besides 
herself, her daughter, daughter-in-law, grand- 
daughter, and Dona Concepcion, her sister; leav- 
ing just sufficient room for me to squeeze in 
between the latter and Doiia Maria Antonia, wdth 
my legs dangling out behind. The cart was w^ell 
made, arched over, and covered with bleached 
cotton, like many of our w^agons at home. The 
next, in succession, was a cart containing the chil- 
dren with their respective Indian attendants to 
guard them from accident. This w^as lined inside 
with hides, which made a secure, as well as com- 
fortable conveyance. After this followed another, 
filled with the families of Joaquin and Raymundo 
Carrillo, and still another, the fourth, the wheels of 
which squeaked under the immense weight of roast 
turkeys, chickens, beef, mutton, tamales, dukes, etc. 
The rear was closed by about fifteen or twenty per- 
sons on horseback. 

After a slow but pleasant ride of one hour we 
arrived at the spot selected for our encampment, 
la Laguna blanca, a spacious amphitheatre, and 
one of the most lovely places that could have been 
chosen for the occasion. The surrounding hills 
were plentifully covered with small oak trees, and 
the grass around was beautifully enriched wdth 
flowers. In the centre of the area w^as a circular 
pond, bearing the name already stated, which had 
been increased by recent rains to a circumference 
unusual, excepting at this season of the year. Dur- 
ing the preparations for dinner I took my rifle and 



208 lifp: in California. 

strolled into the woods in quest of game; succeeding 
in killing some quail, I returned just in time to 
take part in the feast. 

A large white table-cloth was spread on the grass, 
upon which were tastefully arranged our different 
dishes of meats, pastry, fruits, and sweetmeats;- and 
around these we accommodated ourselves, some re- 
clining, others seated upon the ground. At the 
conclusion of the dinner, the boys amused us with 
a toro, or bull, which they had brought from a 
neighboring farm ; but he soon managed to escape, 
and made his way to the centre of the pond, where 
he remained quite secure from their torments. Be- 
ing foiled in this amusement they commenced rac- 
ing their horses, and gave us a good specimen of 
their superior skill in riding. While they continued 
these diversions, others of the party were scattered 
about in little groups, where the music of the guitar 
and singing seemed more attractive. 

At evening we returned to the Presidio, in the 
same order in which we left it; each one well satis- 
fied with the day's amusement. 

Leaving Santa Barbara I sailed to one of the 
southern ports. Several new farms are established 
in the interior of the country, upon grounds which 
were formerly a part of the possessions of St. 
Gabriel. These I had long desired to see. They 
are located in the neighborhood of the river Santa 
Ana, and between the mission and the large es- 
tablishment at San Bernardino. So, having made 
arrangements for horses, I started in company with 
my friend Henry Melius, and we shaped our course 



LIFE IN ("ALIFORNIA. 209 

for the rancho of Don Tomas Yorba. On our way we 
stopped at the farmhouse of Juan B. Leandry, who 
was alone, his family being absent at a wedding 
feast at the Pueblo. Leandry had been but two 
years a ranchero, and now possessed a stock of 
about six thousand bullocks, besides horses, sheep, 
and all the necessary appendages to constitute a 
farm of first rate character. A vineyard occupies a 
large space on the left of the house, from which he 
anticipated the pleasure of one day shipping a 
cargo of wines to the United States. Should he 
continue his indefatigable labors, he will have one 
of the richest haciendas in the country. He gave 
us dinner, after which we resumed our saddles, and 
soon reached Santa Ana. Not finding Don Tomas 
at home, we continued through a pass in the moun- 
tains, along the banks of a river ; and at sunset en- 
tered upon the plains of the Rancho de San Juan 
del Rio, the dwelling place of Senor Bandini. We 
found our friend Yorba here, and the first expres- 
sion of Bandini, as he took us by the hand, was 
'%hianto hny de bueno por aquif " " How much good 
we have here!" Soon after supper we retired to 
rest, and fell into a deep slumber which lasted till 
seven o'clock next morning, when a gentle tap was 
heard at the door, and in popped our agreeable 
friend Bandini. Having asked how we had passed 
the night, he quaintly told us that our herses were 
missing, and that w^e should have to remain and pass 
the day in " San Juan del Rio ! " 

After partaking of a hospitable breakfast, w^e went 
to a rodeo at the farm of one of the largest cattle 



210 T.IKK IN ('A1.1F(M^MA. 

lioUlors in the country. Ihivini^: ridden a short dis- 
huu'o, we saw large elouds of dust rising in that 
direetion, and soon afterwards, cattle were distinetly 
perceived, gathered in a large hody ot" hetween tive 
and six thousand. The [)roprietor, l>on Antonio 
Maria l^ugo, now possessing from twelve to fourteen 
thousand bullocks, was once a coninion soldier in 
the army. At the time oi' his retirement from ser- 
vice, he was presented, by a friend, with two or 
three cows, which by careful management have 
made him the richest farmer in California. With 
all his wealth, he lives miserably poor, depriving 
himself of the comforts of life, yet he thinks noth- 
ingof squandering thousaudsupi>n others. Although 
advanced in years, he has lately married a young 
and ju'ctty girl, who takes pleasure in entertaining 
the visitors of her husband. 

As we returned, we visited the planting grounds 
of Uautlini, which were beautifully laid out, on the 
side oi' tlie river. 

C)n our route back to the rueblo, we passed 
through a. long valley, which was the scene of 
destruction during the slaughter o( the Mission 
cattle in 1 800. Its devastation was still visible, 
for skulls and bones were lying about in every 
direction. 

.Vt the farmhouse oi' Isaac Williams we stopped 
awhile io rest our horses. It is the most spacious 
building of the kind in the country, and possesses 
all desirable conveniences. Soon after leaving this 
delightful spot, we reached the dwelling of our 
friend Hon Abel, at l.os Auiieles. 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 211 

An arrival at St. Pedro, from Mazatlan, brought 
intelligence of the coming of a new General to Cali- 
fornia, with six hundred men. This was a move- 
ment of Santa Ana, who began to fear an innova- 
tion of the foreigners on the northern confines of 
San Francisco. Many Americans had already made 
their appearance along the margin of the Sacra- 
mento, where a Swiss gentleman, named Sutter, 
had commenced the formation of a colony ; and day 
after day notices were to be seen in the American 
papers, that parties had left, or were leaving our 
Western States for California. 

This alone was sufficient inducement to prompt 
the Mexican Government to an act so important ; 
but it had also another reason. The political Gov- 
ernor of California had solicited the appointment of 
a new General, with an additional force of one 
hundred men, and Vallejo, the General, had also 
requested the displacing of Alvarado, and the ap- 
pointing of another in his place. 

Now was the time for the Mexican power to seek 
to re-establish its authority, while disaffection 
lasted ; and an expedition was accordingly equipped 
for the purpose. One day, towards the last of Au- 
gust, 1842, 1 sailed from St. Pedro, and proceeded 
along down the coast towards St. Diego. On the fol- 
lowing morning, when approaching Point Loma, a 
small vessel was perceptibly making sail from her 
anchorage in the outer bay. When we entered the 
harbor, where she had preceded us, she had dropped 
anchor again, and the men were busy furling her 
sails. They had communicated with the shore, and as 



212 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

we were curious to ascertain who were on board, we 
immediately repaired in our boat to " Hide Park." 
It was a small brig, bringing the new Mexican 
General and his officers. This was news indeed I 
This was an event worthy of particular respect, and 
we hastened back to prepare our guns for a salute. 
As his Excellency landed on the beach, he received 
a Yankee welcome, and that alone ; for the Dieginos 
were without powder, and the guns of the fort were 
dismounted. 

Soon afterwards I visited the town, and called 
upon the General. The conversation between us 
resulted in my learning that he was ^^Don Manuel 
Micheltorena, Comandante General y Gefe politico de la 
Alta California.''^ He had been in the celebrated 
campaign with Santa Ana jagainst the Texians, 
and was now despatched by his government to fulfil 
the arduous duties, which had for nearly six years 
so much perplexed the Californians. Three vessels 
were daily expected with troops, and ammunition. 
They had left Mazatlan in company, and might be 
looked for any moment. 

Five days afterwards, the brig " Chato " arrived, 
with ninety soldiers and their families. I saw them 
land, and to me they presented a state of wretched- 
ness and misery unequalled. Not one individual 
among them possessed a jacket or pantaloons; but 
naked, and like the savage Indians, they concealed 
their nudity with dirty, miserable blankets. The 
females were not much better off; for the scantiness 
of their mean apparel was too apparent for modest 
observers. They appeared like convicts; and, in- 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 213 

deed, the greater portion of them had been charged 
with the crime either of murder or theft. And 
these were the soldiers sent to subdue this happy 
country! These were the valiant followers of a 
heroic General, who had fought on the battle field, 
where he had gained laurels for himself and coun- 
try! These were to be the enforcers of justice and 
good government! Alas! poor California! when 
such are to be thy ministers, thou art indeed fallen ! 
The remainder of the " convict army " arrived in 
course of time, and I had an opportunity of seeing 
them all, afterwards, at the Pueblo, when on their 
route towards Monterey, the seat of government. 
They mustered about three hundred and fifty men, 
and their General had given them, since their arri- 
val, a neat uniform of white linen. Here, their 
stay was protracted, in order to drill, and prepare 
for service, in case of opposition from Sefior Alva- 
rado. Day after day, the place resounded with the 
noise of the trumpet and the drums; and a level 
spot, on the river's margin, was the scene of mili- 
tary manoeuvres. At night, the gardens and vine- 
yards were plundered, and the neighboring farms 
suffered greatly, from the frequency of the soldiers* 
visits. 

During these acts of the military, and the deten- 
tion of Micheltorena in Los Angeles, grand prep- 
arations were making at Santa Barbara for his 
reception there. A liberal subscription was raised 
by some of the principal inhabitants, and measures 
were taken accordingly. 

A large enclosure was made for the exhibition of 



214 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

bull-fighting, and a profusion of good things was 
provided for a dinner and Fandango. The day- 
appointed, at length, came, but no General was 
there to participate in the festivities. The foreign- 
ers, who had contributed to the preparations, were 
not to be cheated out of their amusement, and some 
of them proposed carrying into immediate effect, 
the object of their subscription. They were readily- 
joined by the Californians, and the following day 
was selected for the entertainment. 

A bull-fight in California is far different from the 
brutal exhibitions of Spain and Mexico. Here, the 
bull is not killed, or lacerated; the object of the 
amusement being merely the exhibition of eques- 
trian performances. All the young bachelors are 
expected to be present, which generally secures a 
full attendance of ladies, who stand on stages and 
platforms erected around the enclosure, ready to 
bestow their smiles and approbation on those of 
their choice; hence the waving of handkerchiefs 
and shawls is incessant. 

When a bull enters, (it being customary to admit 
only one at a time) he usually rushes in as if ready 
to attack anything before him, till the shouts of the 
multitude, and the confused fluttering of scarfs, 
shawls and ribbons, disconcert the animal, and he 
retires to the least occupied part of the square, 
where he remains pawing up the earth. Presently, 
a horseman comes forth, with a scarlet cloak, or 
gaudy scrape, which he waves toward the bull ; 
the animal rushes at the object, and the skill of the 
rider consists in avoiding a collision. Sometimes a 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 215 

dozen riders are thus in the area at once, and in the 
confusion, it not unfrequently happens that a horse 
is gored, or a rider thrown. The more valiant appear 
on foot; and as they nimbly escape danger, or 
boldly throw themselves into it, the interest is ex- 
ceedingly increased. When one bull is worn out 
with fatigue, another is let in to take his place; and 
occasionally a rocket or squib is thrown to excite 
his fury. The boys, on horseback, await to receive 
the harassed creature as he is let out, to drive him 
off outside of the town ; and in his retreat he is 
sure to be overturned by them at least half a dozen 
times. 

The Fandango followed the bull-fight; and the 
company showed, by their hilarity, that no regret 
was felt for the non-arrival of Micheltorena. 

Several days afterwards, while the Mexican forces 
occupied the mission of San Fernando, orders, from 
the General, were received by the civil authorities 
of Santa Barbara, directing them to prepare quar- 
ters for his officers and soldiers, who were on the 
eve of marching for that place. Other intelligence 
immediately followed this important notice of 
Micheltorena, which not only excited the Califor- 
nians, and terrified the Mexicans, but astonished 
the world ! This w^as the capture of Monterey by 
the American squadron, under command of Commo- 
dore Jones ! 

As I lay slumbering in my bed at the house of 
Senor Noriega, at midnight, on the 24th October, 
1842, I was suddenly aroused and alarmed, by the 
abrupt entrance of a person into my host's apart- 



216 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

ment, adjoining my own. It was his son, who in 
quick succession rattled forth the following — "Los 
Americanos han tornado a Monterey ! Una Escuadra 
Americana estd fondeada en el Puerto ! Guerra con. 
Mexico!^'' etc. "The Americans have taken Mon- 
terey! A squadron is at anchor in the port! War 
with Mexico ! " " Wheugh ! here's a go ! " said I. 
" What is the matter ? What is all this you are 
talking about ? " " Talking about," said he, " why, 
we are going to cut the throats of all you Yankees!" 
" Look here ! " he continued, (as he entered my room 
and handed me a copy of the proceedings drawn up 
at the Capital, with the Proclamation of the Com- 
modore), " read this ! " I did so, and saw the reason 
for such a movement. Mexico had declared an un- 
just war. Monterey had capitulated on the twen- 
tieth, when the Americans took possession, and 
hoisted the " stars and stripes." 

The news soon spread abroad, and at daylight, 
groups were assembled at different places, discussing 
the affair. The Americans were elated, and some 
of the most wealthy of the Californians seemed not 
displeased that they were to have a government 
more stable than that under which they had been 
living. "Will they meddle with our farms?" 
"Will they interfere with our religion?" "Will 
they trouble us in any way?" These were the 
questions asked, and replied to in the negative. 
The large guns in the Presidio were dismounted 
and buried, the garrison sought the protection of 
Micheltorena, and the place was promptly aban- 
doned to the Americans ! 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 217 

What was our surprise, when, on the day follow- 
ing, a courier brought the intelligence " that the 
war was a mistake!" that the town of Monterey had 
been restored to the Mexican authorities, and 
friendly salutes had passed between the fort and 
the shipping! 

Alvarado, who was still Governor and in com- 
mand at Monterey, observed at the time of capitula- 
tion, that he preferred a surrender to the Ameri- 
cans, to the degrading necessity of submission to 
the newly-arrived Mexican General, who had been 
sent by the Mexican Government to supersede him. 

Micheltorena was at a rancho, about nine leagues 
to the north of the mission of San Fernando, when 
he received the first information of the war, and he 
retreated precipitately to the Pueblo. The valiant 
forces of this courageous Mexican General never 
travelled faster f 

They halted not till sheltered in the midst of 
Los Angeles. This, I presume, was the ^'forced 
hiarch," which Micheltorena took to repel the inva- 
sion of Monterey! and which he afterwards men- 
tioned in his statement of the affair to his Govern- 
ment. 

The war being over, every thing was restored to 
its former quiet state. Micheltorena finally reached 
Monterey, and continued his administration of the 
Government without opposition, till the Californians 
were emboldened, a third time, to make a stand for 
independence. 

Sometime during the month of November, 1844, 
the disaffected people of the north, headed by Val- 



218 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

lejo, Castro and Alvarado, took possession of the 
mission of San Juan; where the wisdom of Michel- 
torena had induced him to place his ammunition 
stores, to prevent their falling into the hands of the 
Yankees, in the event of another invasion by sea. 

A proclamation was issued by the Governor allow- 
ing eight days for the rebels to lay down their arms. 
Micheltorena went forth to meet them ; parleying 
commenced, and ended in a treaty, favorable to both 
parties. After the expiration of a few days, each 
party produced a treaty that was denied by the 
other, and the Californians again assembled, and 
prepared to invade the town of Monterey. On the 
6th January, 1845, the General, with his soldiers, 
left the place, and was joined by Captain Sutter, 
and one hundred foreigners, most of them settlers 
on the river Sacramento ; besides about seventy 
Indians, who had been taught the use of firearms. 
The whole proceeded in pursuit of Castro, who had 
fled to the town of Los Angeles, which is situated 
four hundred miles to the southward. Owing to 
the protracted movements of Micheltorena, who 
made on some days but three or four miles pro- 
gress, it was forty days ere he arrived in the vicin- 
ity of the town, and consequently, the foreigners 
had become discouraged, and nearly all left him. 
This gave time for Castro to increase his numbers ; 
which having done he returned, and met the gov- 
ernment forces. On the 21st of February the par- 
ties came in sight, when a few shots were inter- 
changed, which fell harmless on both sides. The 
day following, the cannonading again commenced, 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 219 

and resulted in the surrender of the Mexican General. 

It was reported that four persons were killed, sev- 
eral wounded, and some horses shot. Castro had, 
with his party, about fifty foreigners from the 
south. At the commencement of the action, the 
foreigners on both sides, by agreement, retired from 
their several parties, and left them to fight the battle 
alone, which accounts for the small number killed, 
and the speedy victory. 

Senor Pio Pico, being the oldest member of the 
state "Diputacion,'^ was declared Governor, and Don 
Jos^ Castro was appointed "Comandante General^ 

Micheltorena, his officers, and soldiers, with the 
exception of a few, who had married in the country, 
were put on board of the American barque Don 
Quixote, and taken to San Bias. 

The last accounts from Monterey were up to June 
18th, 1845. Pio Pico still continued Governor of the 
country. It was said that another General had been 
appointed, who was expected from Mazatlan, with 
eighteen hundred men. Funds, to the amount of 
seventy thousand dollars, had been deposited for 
him with a merchant in that place; and two 
wealthy persons in Tepic, had bound themselves 
to make good the payment of the officers and 
troops. This may, or may not, be true. It cost the 
treasury more than seventy thousand dollars to 
place Micheltorena in St. Diego, and it will cost, at 
this rate, over two hundred thousand to send such a 
force as is now in preparation. 

Since closing this work for publication, I have 
received further information from California, by 



220 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

letters, dated October 1st, 1845. A friend writes 
thus: "The country never was in a more disorderly, 
miserable condition, than at the present moment. 
We have no government. Pio Pico, who was nomi- 
nally Governor, has been arrested and imprisoned. 
The people at the north, as usual, are opposed to 
those of the south, and will be satisfied with none 
other than Alvarado, for chief magistrate. Two 
commissioners have arrived from Mexico, to ascer- 
tain why the Mexicans were expelled. The soldiers 
from Mazatlan, have not arrived ; but we understand 
that one thousand men and four vessels are prepar- 
ing for the expedition." 



CONCLUSION. 



THE writer, in the preceding chapters, has given 
a correct and imjDartial account of the peculiar 
character of California and its inhabitants. A por- 
tion of the country, however, most interesting in 
its natural features, has been, perhaps, but too little 
dwelt upon ; it is that, embracing the extensive Bay 
of St. Francisco, into which flow the waters from 
the Sacramento, San Joaquin, Jesus Maria, and 
other lesser streams. The surrounding country, 
diversified by hills and plains, is very beautiful; 
the soil is rich and heavily timbered ; and the high 
mountains which rise around are thickly adorned 
with cedar trees. There are extensive prairies also ; 
and large tracts of excellent tillage ground on the 
banks of the rivers. It is the grand region for colo- 
nization ; and if peopled by our industrious back- 
woodsmen, who are gradually emigrating from the 
Western States, it must hold, in a very few years, a 
conspicuous station among the nations of the earth. 
Its locations are well adapted to purposes of agricul- 
ture, and such is its mildness of climate, that all the 
tropical fruits might be raised there, if cultivated. 
The large rivers are navigable for steamboats, for 
more than one hundred miles, and are well stocked 



222 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

with salmon and other fish. The cold, bkistering 
winds, and disagreeable temperature of the climate, 
alluded to by other writers, are solely confined to 
the lands adjacent to the seacoast; for, a very few 
leagues beyond the limits of '' Yerba Buena," we find 
a totally different atmosphere. 

As the traveller proceeds south from St. Fran- 
cisco, he passes through a similar description of 
country till beyond Monterey ; when the plains be- 
come more contracted, and less fertile, till he is forced 
at last upon a hard sandy beach. Riding through 
little openings among the hills, he enters again 
upon wider strips of land, as the mountains retreat 
from the sea. In this way he may continue towards 
St. Diego, day after day, the face of the country vary- 
ing, until it becomes barren and cheerless. 

There is a vast extent of land, however, beyond 
the mountains, which is but imperfectly know^n to 
the Californians. This has been repeatedly visited 
by foreigners, who have said much in its favor. It 
is unoccupied, and is the only part of California, 
with the exception of land north and east of San 
Francisco, that is attainable, for the purpose of colo- 
nization. All that portion that is within twenty or 
thirty miles of the seacoast is, at present, either occu- 
pied by cattle farms, or by the much restricted pos- 
sessions of the missions. 

Now, that Upper California remains in its unset- 
tled state, it opens a field for immigration, and the 
unfriendly feelings of its inhabitants towards Mex- 
ico, will, undoubtedly, lead them to favor other 
nations. St. Franciseo, then, is the point, as also the 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 223 

lands around the bay, the banks of the Sacramento, 
and Jesus Maria. These are the best lands, and are 
well calculated for the raising of wheat, and other 
grains, and for the rearing of cattle. These immense 
tracts of land, and the facility of water intercourse 
between them and the bay, by rivers and creeks, 
render their situation highly important. 

The white population of Alta California, may be 
estimated at about eight thousand, and the Indian, 
which in 1829 amounted to over thirty thousand, 
will now scarcely number ten — while the former has 
increased, the latter has rapidly diminished. This 
may be owing to various causes: — The abject state 
to which the missionary establishments have be- 
come reduced, — the consequent partial abandon- 
ment of them, — the introduction of vice and dis- 
ease, — and the Indian likewise being left to provide 
for his own necessities. Dependent, as he had been 
for years, on the care of his spiritual Father, he 
took no thought of the morrow, but lived on, in a 
state of recklessness which unfitted him for any 
other condition. This indifference of character led 
him into every kind of immorality, and he has 
plunged headlong into the destruction which so 
naturally followed. 

Until recently, the Government has held out no 
encouragement whatever to immigrants. The lands 
on the seacoast, having been principally occupied by 
the missions, gave no room for the introduction of 
foreign settlers, so that but very few have obtained 
a footing, in California, except at places remote from 
the ports and harbors. To secure lands for farming 



224 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

purposes, it was in former years, necessary to get the 
written consent of the missionary under whose con- 
trol they were, ere the government could give legiti- 
mate possession, therefore their acquisition depended 
entirely upon the good will of the Friar. It may be 
justly supposed, that by this restriction, the ad- 
vancement of California was rather retarded. So it 
was! for the immigrant w^as placed at tlie mercy 
of a prejudiced missionary who might be averse to 
any thing like secular improvement; for although 
these religionists were generally possessed of gener- 
ous feelings, still, many of them, were extremely 
jealous of an infringement upon the interests of 
their institutions. In fact, the abundance with 
which the missions were stored, and the bountiful 
distribution of their yearly productions by the 
missionaries, rendered any exertion on the part of 
the Californian unnecessary for his support, and 
but few persons cared for the means of independ- 
ence, preferring idleness to industry and improve- 
ment. No officer in the Spanish service could marry 
without special license from his Catholic Majesty ; 
thus, the increase of colonization was easily regu- 
lated, which accounts for the limited number of 
colonists in the country. 

After the Mexicans had adopted the republican 
form of government, orders were received for the 
liberation of the Indians, and the missionaries were 
directed to apportion to each one, a certain quantity 
of land, for their maintenance. From this time, the 
white inhabitant began to turn his attention, more 
particularly, to agriculture, and the immense tracts 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 225 

of land that were occupied by the missions, were 
mostly divided into numerous farms. At first, the 
change was considered disastrous to the prosperity 
of California, and the wanton destruction of prop- 
erty which followed, seemed to warrant the conclu- 
sion ; but the result, however, proved quite the con- 
trary. Individual enterprise, which succeeded, has 
placed the country in a more flourishing condition, 
and the wealth, instead of being confined to the 
monastic institutions, as before, has been distributed 
among the people. 

The liberality of the Californians, since their first 
opposition to Mexico, has induced many foreigners 
to settle in the country, and several hundreds of 
Americans may be already found located at differ- 
ent points. Their industrious habits have procured 
for them many very promising settlements, where 
the lands, under judicious management, produce 
abundance, and contribute greatly to the beauty of 
the surrounding country. 

Agriculture, as may be supposed, has not much 
improved since its first introduction by the Spanish 
friars; for the same modes of cultivation are still 
adhered to, which they introduced at the com- 
mencement of their labors in California. 

The grains principally cultivated are wheat, bar- 
ley, maize, and several kinds of beans or frijoles, as 
they are called, by the natives. Oats are not raised 
for any purpose whatever, but they grow sponta- 
neously on the prairies, and upon the hills, where 
they are left to dry and rot with the yearly pastur- 
age. The sowing of grain commences in Novem- 



220 LIFE IN CxYLIFORNIA. 

ber, when the rains set in ; and the harvest is in the 
months of July and August. Owing to inattention, 
perhaps, in procuring good seed, their wheat is not 
so fine as it might be; for in no part of the world, 
can be found a soil and climate, better adapted to 
its production. 

Most kinds of vegetables are raised in gardens, 
and there is hardly a house in the country that has 
not its small patch of ground devoted to that pur- 
pose. 

Both flax and hemp have been raised in Califor- 
nia, and also cotton, to considerable advantage. 
The vine is thrifty, and is cultivated every where; 
from which is made very excellent wine and brandy. 

Notwithstanding the immense number of domes- 
tic animals in the country, it is rather surprising 
that the Californians give so little attention to the 
dairy. Butter and cheese are extremely scarce, and 
but seldom used ; and I have known instances, in 
which a proprietor of three or four thousand cows, 
has been obliged to send all over the village where 
he resided, to obtain milk for his family. From 
this circumstance, it may be supposed that they are 
totally ignorant of its value : — not so ; for since the 
introduction of foreign settlers, they have been well 
instructed in the art of making both butter and 
cheese; and it is only from sheer indolence, that 
these articles are not more plentiful. 

In the intercourse between California and the 
Sandwich Islands, which has considerably increased 
in latter years, large quantities of wheat, beans, 
flour, cheese, and soap, have been annually ex- 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 227 

ported from the former ; the proceeds of which have 
usually returned in a variety of goods from the 
English and American markets. 

The trade with California is, however, confined 
principally to American ships, direct from the 
United States ; for they have but two or three small 
vessels of their own, and not more than twenty or 
thirty on the whole extent of the Mexican coast ! 

The Californians have made several attempts to 
rid themselves of the Mexicans, as has been related 
in the preceding chapters ; and they were left for 
several years without interference on the part of 
the Mexican Government ; so that not until this 
interference was sought by them, did it again 
attempt any control over their country. The dis- 
tance between California and Mexico renders it easy 
to effect a separation, provided there could be found 
sufficient unity among the Californians ; for a very 
small number could successfully resist any attacks 
made by such a power as Mexico. " The shores of the . 
Mexican Republic," says Alexander Forbes, Esq., " on 
the Pacific, are ill calculated for maintaining any 
maritime force ; it has none at present ; and from 
its unhealthy situation, scarcity of materials and 
want of sailors or maritime enterprise, it is not 
likely ever to have on the Pacific any formidable 
navy." These remarks compared with the follow- 
ing, relative to the situation of California, serve to 
prove its advantages. " California," he says, " is 
calculated, in an eminent degree, to become a mari- 
time power ; its coasts are healthy ; its harbors ex- 
cellent; and its capacity to produce materials for 



228 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

ship-building and marine stores is almost without 
limits. If, therefore, there should ever exist a suffi- 
cient population to maintain a separate sovereignty, 
or the occupiers of the country be of a quality and 
character capable of taking advantage of those re- 
sources, Mexico, instead of being able to reduce Cali- 
fornia, would be obliged to succumb." 

The natural resources of California may have 
drawn the attention of the British Government to 
its importance, and fears were entertained by them, 
at one time, that the Russians, who were settled 
upon its northern frontier, would either encroach 
upon, or take entire possession of it. These fears, 
however, proved groundless, for the Russians have, 
for the last three or four years, abandoned the set- 
tlement. In commenting upon this, Mr. Forbes 
says, " The danger does not lie there — there is an- 
other restless and enterprising neighbor, from whom 
they will most probably soon have to defend them- 
selves, or rather to submit to ; for although the 
frontiers of North America are much more distant 
than the Russians, yet to such men as the back set- 
tlers, distance is of little moment, and they are already 
well acquainted with the route. The northern 
American tide of population must roll on south- 
ward, and overwhelm, not only California, but other 
more important states. This latter event, however, 
is in the womb of time; but the invasion of Cali- 
fornia by American settlers is daily talked of; and 
if Santa Ana liad prevailed against Texas, a por- 
tion of the inhabitants of that country, sufficient 
to overrun California, would now have been its 
masters." 



LIFE IX CALIFORNIA. 229 

That the British Government has had interested 
views in relation to California, is also intimated by 
Mr. Forbes, who says, " There have been some 
thoughts of proposing to the Mexican Government 
that it should endeavor to cancel the English debt, 
w^hich now exceeds fifty millions of dollars, by a 
transfer of California to the creditors. This would 
be a wise measure on the part of Mexico, if the gov- 
ernment could be brought to lay aside the vanity of 
retaining large possessions. The cession of such a 
disjointed part of the republic as California would 
be an advantage. In no case carl it ever be profit- 
able to the Mexican republic, nor can it possibly re- 
main united to it for any length of time, if it should 
even be induced to rejoin this state, from which at 
present it is, to all intents and purposes, separated. 
Therefore, by giving up this territory for the debt, 
w^ould be getting rid of this last for nothing. But 
would the English creditors accept of it? I think 
they might, and I think they ought. They have 
lately displayed an inclination to treat and receive 
lands as a part of the debt where no lands exist be- 
longing to Mexico. In the settlement made with 
Lizardi and Co. as agents for the Mexican Govern- 
ment in London, lands are stipulated to be deliv- 
ered at a certain price per acre, in Texas, in which 
Mexico does not possess an acre, in the state of New 
Mexico, which is many hundred leagues inland in 
Sonora, and God knows where. To the good for- 
tune, however, of the English creditors this contract 
has been disapproved of by the Mexican Govern- 
ment, and it is hoped that some more rational 



230 lifp: in califoenia. 

scheme will be hit upon to give the creditors some 
sort of tangible security for at least a part of what 
they have been so scandalously fleeced out of. If 
California was ceded for the English debt, the cred- 
itors might be formed into a company, with the 
difference that they should have a sort of sovereign- 
ty over the territory, somewhat in the manner of 
the East India Company. This, in my opinion, 
w^ould certainly bring a revenue in time, which 
might be equal to the interest of the debt, and, 
under good management, and with an English 
population, would most certainly realize all that has 
been predicted of this fine country." 

Gold and silver mines have been found in Upper 
California, from which, considerable quantities of ore 
have been obtained : skilful miners are only re- 
quired, to make them profitable. It is said that 
coal has recently been discovered ; which, if true, 
will greatly facilitate the introduction of steam navi- 
gation in the Pacific, and be the means of making 
California one of the most important commercial 
positions on the west coast of America ; particu- 
larly, if ever a communication should be opened by 
means of a canal across the Isthmus of Panama. 
That such an event may transpire, is not improb- 
able; the day is not far distant, perhaps, when it 
will be realized, and one may visit this fertile and 
interesting country, and return to the United States, 
in one half of the time now required for the long 
and tedious outward navigation. 

The resources of California, its magnificent har- 
bors, climate, and abundance of naval stores, would 



LIFE IN CALIFOKXIA. 231 

make it the rendezvous for all the steamers engaged 
in the trade between Europe and the East Indies, 
as well as those from the United States ; and the 
facilities for emigration w^ould be such, that soon 
the whole western coast of North America would 
be settled by emigrants, both from this countr}^ and 
Europe. 

During the anarchy which existed in past years, 
throughout this fertile country, there were many of 
the native Californians who would have been thank- 
ful for the protection of either England or America; 
and indeed, a great many desired it, in preference 
to the detested administration of Mexico. Perhaps, 
there are many who still feel as they did then : and 
in this age of "Annexation," why not extend the "area 
of freedom " by the annexation of California ? Why 
not plant the banner of liberty there, in the fortress, 
at the entrance of the noble, the spacious bay of San 
Francisco? It requires not the far-reaching eye of 
the statesman, nor the wisdom of a contemplative 
mind, to know what would be the result. Soon its 
immense sheet of water would become enlivened 
with thousands of vessels, and steamboats would 
ply between the towns, which, as a matter of course, 
would spring up on its shores. While on other 
locations, along the banks of the rivers, would be 
seen manufactories and saw-mills. The whole 
country would be changed, and instead of one's 
being deemed wealthy by possessing such extensive 
tracts as are now held by the farming class, he 
would be rich with one quarter part. Every thing 
would improve; population would increase; con- 



232 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

sumption would be greater, and industry would 
follow. 

All this may come to pass; and indeed, it must 
come to pass, for the march of emigration is to the 
West, and naught will arrest its advance but the 
mighty ocean. 



APPENDIX. 



MANY friends and acquaintances, having fre- 
quently suggested and urged a republication of 
the foregoing narrative, on the ground of its being no 
longer in print, and almost entireh^ unknown to the 
reading community of the present day, the author 
has been induced to comply with their washes in an 
appendix form, by giving a brief statement of events 
which have transpired since that period when Cali- 
fornia was an independent government, though not 
recognized as such by Mexico. 

During the disturbances existing between Texas 
and Mexico, and the annexation of the former to 
the United States, which resulted in a war between 
our government and Mexico, the author was a resi- 
dent of the city of New York, and was well posted 
in the proceedings which transpired up to the time 
when peace was declared, and California, by right 
of purchase, had become a portion of our domain. 
Troops had been sent to California, and ever}^ pro- 
vision made to place that territory under a republi- 
can form of government, wdien measures were taken 
to communicate with that distant portion of our 
possessions by proposals for monthly mail service, 
through the agency of steam navigation. Contracts 



234 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

for the purpose were secured b}^ William H. Aspiii- 
wall, Esq., of New York, for the Pacific Coast, and 
by George Law, P]sq., for the Atlantic Coast, and 
suitable ships were immediately prepared to carry into 
effect these measures, which drew the author's atten- 
tion again to his old haunts in California. His ac- 
quaintance with Mr. Aspinwall gave him means of 
acquiring all the plans relative thereto, and during 
the construction of the steamers, three in number, 
for the Pacific Coast — the California, Oregon, and 
Panama — he daily witnessed their advancement, 
until the completion of the California in the latter 
part of the year 1848, and at this time having been 
appointed as special agent at San Francisco, ar- 
rangements were made to take him and the few 
passengers, numbering only about twenty-five per- 
sons, to Chagres, on the barque John Benson, in 
order to meet the steamer California at Panama, 
which had left New York October 6, 1848, under 
command of Cleveland Forbes. 

On the evening previous to their departure, how- 
ever, the city was excited with intelligence of the 
discovery of gold in marvelous quantities some- 
where in the vicinity of San Francisco, and without 
knowing the effect it had produced on the public 
mind, they took their departure. After a prosper- 
ous passage, and just at declining day, they entered 
the open roadstead of Chagres, where, much to their 
surprise, they found at anchor a vessel, which 
proved to be the steamer Falcon from New Orleans, 
which only a few days previous had landed over one 
thousand greedy adventurers for gold. This was 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 235 

the first emigration, all of which seemed determined, 
if possible, to get on board of the California, whose 
accommodations were limited to seventy-five per- 
sons in both cabin and steerage. The next morn- 
ing, on landing, they learned that all the canoes, 
the only means of conveyance at that time, had 
gone up the river to Gorgona, a village half way 
across the Isthmus, so that they were obliged to 
wait several days ere they could proceed. Owing 
to excessive rains, and unavoidable exposure, many 
were taken sick on the river, and a report was soon 
current that the cholera had made its appearance, 
and several victims had died of the disease. This 
fearful announcement was sufficient to create a reg- 
ular stampede, when all baggage and valuables of 
every description were abandoned and left on the 
route, whilst the owners of the property hurried on 
to Panama. Fortunately, however, every article 
was carried safely in on the backs of the natives, 
who were satisfied with a small compensation, and 
who were only, in a very few instances, lacking in 
faithfulness. The California had not arrived yet, 
and the consequence was that every one became 
impatient, and fearful of disaster to her machinery. 
Already more than a month had elapsed beyond the 
time allotted for her arrival, and in the meantime 
the emigrants were increasing daily on the Isthmus, 
until at length one morning early, the shouts of 
thousands of voices proclaimed that the long-de- 
sired object was approaching and would soon reach 
her place of anchorage in the harbor. All was excite- 
ment in consequence, and many of the most active 



236 LIFE IN' CALIFORNIA. 

1 lurried off to the ship, thinking to get on board, and 
til us secure a passage beforehand, but a wise pre- 
caution, however, prevented any communication, 
and the}^ returned to the shore disheartened and 
disappointed. To add to these difficulties up to this 
time, the steamer had taken on board a large num- 
ber of passengers at the Chilean and Peruvian 
ports, and now the question arose, what should the 
agents of the company do in regard to those who 
had so eagerly been awaiting her arrival? It was 
decided that the New York passengers, with tickets, 
should first be provided for, and afterwards those 
from South America, and finally as many as possi- 
ble from among the first applicants for passage at 
the office at Panama. The result was, the ship was 
crowded to excess, so much so that there was hardly 
room left to move about on the deck or in the cabin. 
The voyage was short, however, to California, and 
the first port arrived at was Monterey, where a de- 
tention was made over night in order to procure 
fuel; and the day following, the 28th of February, 
1849, she reached the El Dorado so much longed 
for. Immediately the passengers began to disem- 
bark, and soon the sand-hills around the town had 
the appearance of a vast battle-ground, with its 
cotton tents, and busy preparation of groups passing 
to and fro in every direction. Many of the passen- 
gers started at once for the gold mines, but others, 
who were disinclined to undergo the dangers of a 
long trip by water in an open launch, remained 
behind. Many, too, who were contemplating large 
business in the future, thought best to look out for 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 237 

accommodations for their cargoes of merchandise, 
already on the wa}^ from the Athmtic shores, for u|) 
to this time there were only about thirty buildings 
in the place, so that the cargoes of the first arrivals 
were left exposed on the beach. Fortunately for 
the owners of the property, however, the early 
comers were not thieves, and in consequence it was 
perfectly safe during the summer until the rainy 
•season commenced. 

Thus the months rolled on, and houses and stores 
of every description sprang up as if by magic, and 
indeed the whole extent of improvement, so rapid 
in its progress, seemed like the work of enchant- 
ment. At night all the principal thoroughfares 
leading to the Plaza (Portsmouth Square) were rife 
with individuals in crowds, hurrying to the sur- 
rounding halls of entertainment and gambling 
saloons, which were brilliantly illuminated and 
enlivened, too, by music from the numerous bands 
employed to allure the prodigal miner, who, plenti- 
fully supplied with the fruit of his labor (pure virgin 
gold), expended it as freely as if it were of little or 
no value. In the meantime ship after ship con- 
tinued to arrive with their living cargoes, from 
which the interior country soon began to realize in 
the rapid increase of its population in every direc- 
tion. For the steamers, like every other vessel 
that arrived in port, were immediately abandoned 
by officers and crews, and it was some time before 
means could be had to take the California to San 
Bias, where a deposit of coal had been made pre- 
viously by order of the company. The same pre- 



238 LIFE IX CALIFORNIA. 

caution had been taken for this port, but unfortu- 
nately, the ship bearing the supply was detained on 
the voyage by her captain having erroneously 
touched into the bay of San Francisco, a port of 
Lower California, supposing it to have been the 
place of destination, and not until he had commu- 
nicated w4th tlie shore, did he lind out his mistake, 
and so did not arrive here until after the departure 
of the California. The Oregon and the Panama ar- 
rived in due time, laden with passengers, who were 
landed and soon dispersed for the mines, and the 
steamers promptly despatched for their return to 
Panama. 

Among the more important structures erected at 
this period w^as a store-house built by the agent on 
the corner of Sacramento and Leidesdorf! streets, 
which lot at that time formed the skirt of the bay, 
where in high tides the water beat against the sides 
of the house, and where lighters, secured at its very 
door, embarked from thence the millions of gold- 
dust that found its way to all parts of the world. 
The building was framed and prepared in New 
York at an expenditure of $500, and cost $10,000 
to erect it and put it in proper condition for occu- 
pation here. This, accordingly, became the busiest 
spot in town, and often the scene of many a fracas 
between applicants for passage to Panama, as they 
crowded forward eager to be foremost on the occa- 
sion. For oftentimes it was very difficult then to 
obtain a berth on board of either of the steamers 
except by application some days in advance of their 
departure. As might have been expected from the 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 239 

crowded state of these vessels, there was great dis- 
satisfaction among the passengers generally, and 
particularly among those from New York via 
Panama; and the consequence was, that on their 
arrival in San Francisco, it required but little per- 
suasion from the quack lawyers about, to induce 
some one of the disaffected to commence suit for 
damages, and then divide the plunder gained, if 
any, between them. In this way the Steamship 
Company had to disgorge large amounts from its 
golden coffers, and oftentimes very unjustly, too. 
For in many cases it was to pay some disagreeable 
individual who had been taken on board as a par- 
ticular favor, and who, to secure his passage, had 
offered to put up with any inconvenience as to 
accommodation and comfort. The dingy little 
Court House on the corner of Clay street and the 
Plaza was on these occasions the exhibition of many 
a ludicrous scene, and as the premises were some- 
what limited as to proportions, the jurors were 
obliged to settle upon a verdict without rising from 
their seats, when the almost invariable charge of 
the judge was couched in the following grave and 
reverend terms : " Gentlemen, you have the case 
before you; so you will decide where you are, whilst 
I go out for a drink ! " 

,Not only the lawyers, but also the doctors, were 
reaping a harvest in this way, for the afflicted miners 
soon came journeying in from the mines broken 
down in health from constant exposure and unac- 
customed hardship, that in many cases resulted 
fatally. The neighboring grave-yard, located on 



240 LIFK IN CALIFORNIA. 

the hill-side sloping toward North Beach, told the 
tale of daily woe, whilst its grassy mounds, side by 
side, proclaimed the numbers who had died from 
lust for gold. Steamer after steamer and daily 
fleets of sailing vessels came pouring in, all crowded 
with greedy gold hunters, who, on their arrival, 
soon made their way to the El Dorado! so that the 
numbers of vessels at anchor appeared like an im- 
mense forest despoiled of its foliage. At length, on 
the morning of the 18th of October, 1850, the steam- 
ship Oregon arrived and passed up through the 
(Jate, bedecked with flags and firing guns, bringing 
news of the admission of California into the Union, 
causing immense excitement throughout the city. 

Up to this time no decisive step had been taken 
for securing a proper depot or accommodation for 
the company's steamers, and although the agent had 
partially convinced himself of the impropriety of 
rejecting 8an Francisco, yet he was inclined to yield 
liis opinion to the judgment of the directors at 
liome. Returning to New York in the fall of 1850, 
on this business, he took part in a meeting con- 
vened especially to decide the question, when he set 
forth his views as to the different locations whicli 
had been recommended. If the company resolved 
to leave San Francisco, the first best point was 
Angel Island, and if, on proper examination, that 
should prove unfit, then Mare Island, and finally 
Benicia, in the event that neither of the others was 
desirable. It was decided at once, however, to se- 
cure property in the latter place, contrary to the 
recommendations of the agent, and steps were im- 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 241 

mediately taken to that effect. After expending 
over fifty thousand dollars, he urged the abandon- 
ment of the site in favor of San Francisco, where he 
had been offered by the municipal government, 
gratis, all that would have been required for his 
purposes, and the same property, to-day, would have 
realized for the company over a million of dollars. 
Strange to sa}' that the company subsequently 
changed their views, and after the resignation of the 
agent, they, at a considerable outlay, purchased their 
present location, which is but a very small portion 
of the tract that the city had previously offered 
gratuitously. Thus, by this movement, Benicia 
died a natural death, and Angel Island was unjustly 
claimed by the United States Government. Mare 
Island, that in reality was known as public domain, 
cost two or three hundred thousand dollars before 
expending a cent in the way of improvement for a 
navy yard. 

Returning to San Francisco, on the way up the 
coast, and stopping at Acapulco, intelligence was 
there received of the recent conflagration in San 
Francisco, on May 4, 1851, which destroyed the 
greater portion of the city, including the steam- 
ship company's agency building. The monthly 
mail steamers for Panama continued their unin- 
terrupted trips with their usual crowded numbers 
of passengers without any particular occurrence of 
note, save sickness contracted on the Isthmus, and 
which in many cases proved fatal. Sailing vessels 
also daily cheered the Golden Gate in fleets from all 
parts of the world, laden with passengers and mer- 



242 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

chandise of every description, that thus constantly 
added to the grand marine panorama of the thou- 
sand vessels at their anchorage. Steamboats daily 
communicated with Sacramento and Stockton, and 
smaller boats plied to and fro from the different 
points of interest that had sprung up around the 
skirts of the bay. On shore the activity and enter- 
prise of the population was made manifest in the 
thousands of houses which covered the entire space 
between Telegraph Hill and Market street, extend- 
ing to the very tops of the hills. The large sand- 
hill at the junction of California and Montgomery 
streets had been removed, and projects had already 
commenced for the demolition of the numerous 
sand-hills between California street and the Mission, 
in order to fill up and extend the city front out into 
deep water. The entire frontage of the Ha])py 
Valley along the beach was occupied by stores, 
work-shops, saw^-mills, flour- mills, machine shops 
and foundries, where the sound of the hammer and 
the steam whistle was heard without cessation day 
and night. 

From the change in the character of constant 
arrivals of passengers from Australia and other 
countries, the population became infested in time 
with criminals of the worst reputation, who boldly 
committed murder, robbery and arson, without fear 
of chastisement, which consequently led, at a later 
period, to the organization, among the citizens, of a 
vigilance committee, in order to rid the city of a 
pest that was destroying its welfare and tranquility. 
Indeed, the whole country was in a state of insecu- 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 243 

rity, and it was dangerous for any one to travel 
alone, through the fear of being waylaid by desper- 
adoes who infested the roads throughout the country. 
The vigilance committee was active and determined 
in its proceedings, arresting in every direction the 
culprits and bringing them to chastisement. A few 
examples in the way of hanging served to rid the 
country of the vile miscreants that were a pest 
throughout the land. Fires were numerous and 
alarming, and as the means of subduing them were 
feeble in the extreme, large portions of the city 
were frequently destroyed. For, having no engines, 
it was only with buckets of water, that the citizens 
were enabled to baffle the flames in their violent 
course of destruction. 

In 1854, the author, connected with Mr. Abel 
Stearns, of Los Angeles, projected a plan for sup- 
plying the lower portion of California with mer- 
chandise direct from the Atlantic coast; satisfied 
as he was that the tradesmen in that location 
would be gratified to purchase goods placed at their 
very doors for the same price that they could pro- 
cure them in San Francisco, and thus evade the 
enormous freight that they were necessarily paying. 
He proceeded to Boston, and there built a fine ship, 
which was named Arcadia, in honor of the fair lady 
of his copartner; which vessel soon after, with a 
large and valuable cargo, set sail for the port of San 
Pedro, where she arrived safe during the month of 
February, 1855. Contrary to his expectation, how- 
ever, he met with jealousy on the part of the trad- 
ers, and a general disinclination to purchase. So 



244 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

that after he had unloaded and despatched his 
ship to China, he was obliged to freight most of 
his cargo to San Francisco in order of dispose of it. 
At this period the condition of the country 
around Los Angeles and vicinity was in a very un- 
settled state, and robberies and murders were of 
common occurrence, particularly among the Indian 
population, for hardly a day passed without one or 
more deaths by violence. Monday morning of each 
week was usually heralded in by cathedral chimes 
from the parish church, notifying the parishioners 
how many poor creatures had been sent into the other 
world the night previous, who had been murdered 
during their bacchanalian orgies. This will account 
for the rapid decrease of the rude natives, who gave 
themselves up to all and every vice that civiliza- 
tion taught them, and, from a population of over 
ten thousand under the parental care of the old 
missionaries of former days prior to 1849, there are 
now scarcely fifty to be met with throughout the 
whole range of the coast. Not only the Indians are 
disappearing en Mo, but their dilapidated institu- 
tions, fast crumbling to decay, will soon, like their 
constructors and originators, be buried in oblivion. 
Of course, this change has been necessary, in order 
to make way for a more intellectual and industrious 
race, to develop and bring forth the vast resources 
of a country so long sleeping in undisturbed tran- 
quility and indifference. The result, of course, has 
caused a total abandonment of all former customs, 
usages and manners, and indeed it may be said 
that the Castilian language, with all its sweet and 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 245 

musical attraction, has now but little or no reverence 
among the rising generation. Even the domestic 
culinary of their ancestors, so famous for its olla 
podrida, frijoles-chinos, enchiladoSy tamales, etc., has 
given place to the introduction of roast beef and 
plum pudding of the new-comers. 

Among the most unfortunate occurrences of early 
days was the adjudication of Mexican land grants 
by commissioners, and the selection at Washington 
for that purpose of men who had no knowledge of 
the country, its political economy, or its people, as to 
fidelity or truthfulness. Had two or three chosen 
American residents here at that period, been ap- 
pointed, there never w^ould have arisen at the 
present day any doubt as to the validity of titles, 
for in those days no spurious grants existed, and if 
any at the present time exist, they were gotten up 
at the suggestion and planning of the new-comers, 
who thought it no sin to plunder government 
whenever in their power to do so. It was currently 
known throughout California the validity of every 
grant issued by the Mexican authorities, and it 
came very hard upon early grantees, who had been 
in possession of lands for nearly half a century, to be 
obliged to prove the titles to them at an expense 
equal to one-half of their intrinsic value. Indeed, 
it was no uncommon event for a poor rancher o to 
surrender one-half of his right to some greedy law- 
yer for the first presentation of his title before the 
commissioners, and then afterwards to part with 
the one-half of what remained for getting it through 
the United States Court at Washington. No wonder 



246 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

the Californian disliked a government which per- 
mitted such atrociousness produced by its demand 
that he should prove his titles, when it would have 
been much more honorable to have recognized 
them, and indeed those of every grant of land 
issued prior to the treat}^ with Mexico. This 
would have prevented the spurious titles that 
sprang up afterwards, for the natives themselves 
would have ignored them at once, and the new- 
comers would not have had time or encouragement 
for looking up false testimony, as too often was the 
case, and which has cast a shade of distrust upon 
almost every land title in the country. But, on 
the other hand, the Californians are to blame, for 
among a few of the higher order of them, they, like 
the unprincipled lawyers, were ready to give any 
testimony required for a small gratification, and 
thus the lawyer was enabled to acquire whatever 
testimony he desired to prove his title. Even now 
the mania for land-grabbing is predominant, and 
the poor Californian is robbed daily, in the curtail- 
ment of his possessions, by some villain or villains 
who squat upon his lands, and, in defiance of the 
law, refuse to acknowledge him as their proprietor 
and legal owner. This, unhappily, has been too 
often countenanced by the government officials, 
who have lent their aid to such robberies, in their 
attempt to condemn and curtail the original surveys 
as recognized by the Mexican authorities. 

The three islands, Santa Cruz, Santa Rosa, and 
St. Nicholas, lying south of the Coast Range of 
Santa Barbara, were once populated, and by a race 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 247 

apparently of a higher order than that of the 
Indians on the mainland, as indicated by the many 
peculiar relics which came to light after their aban- 
donment of the islands and their homes, which took 
place in the early part of the present century. The 
islands were made attractive and important from the 
vast numbers of fur-seals and sea-otters found there, 
which naturally called the attention of the Russian 
Codiacks of the north, who almost entirely engrossed 
that species of traffic throughout the whole extent 
of the Pacific Coast from their possessions in the 
north down to this region, which they frequently 
visited; and on one occasion, in a quarrel with the 
islanders at St. Nicholas, they inhumanly massacred 
nearly the whole of the male inhabitants, which act 
naturally induced the entire population of these 
islands to seek refuge and protection among the 
several missionary establishments on the main- 
land. After the lapse of half a century a party of 
hunters, headed by Mr. Isaac Williams, of Los 
Angeles, embarked in a small vessel at San Pedro 
for a trip among the islands, for the purpose of 
amusement as well as profit, in the hunting of sea- 
otter; and reaching St. Nicholas they disembarked, 
where strolling around over the rocks on the sea- 
shore, much to their surprise, they descried a group 
of persons, evidently endeavoring to escape ob- 
servation, to whom they gave chase, and soon came 
up with. They proved to be an aged veteran and 
three females, who, by friendly signs, were induced 
to accompany them to their launch. As they pro- 
ceeded the elder woman escaped, darting off amongst 



248 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

the brush-wood, and was soon out of sight; so they 
continued their way to the launch, where they em- 
barked, leaving the poor runaway alone on the de- 
serted isle. With a favorable wind, the}^ reached 
San Pedro the next day, and proceeded immediately 
to Los Angeles, where they arrived and entertained 
their rude visitors, much to their satisfaction, day 
after day adding to their comfort and enjoyment, 
every one in the town seeming inclined to extend 
them hospitality. It was not long, however, before 
they began to realize their change of habit and diet, 
which finally ended in the death of the women. The 
old veteran, bowed down with grief, Avandering about 
from house to house, w^as at last missed from among 
the community, and it was not until the expiration 
of several weeks that he was found at San Pedro, 
where he remained for quite a period, daily seated 
on the cliffs, gazing, as it were, to catch a glimpse of 
his island home. Unhappily, one day his body was 
s^en floating upon the water, crowned with sea- 
birds. It was taken ashore and buried on a little 
island, near the entrance of the harbor, now called 
^' Dead Man's Isle." It was supposed that he fell 
asleep, and while dreaming, perhaps, of his beloved 
isle and his departed companions, he fell among tlie 
rocks below and died. Such was the end of poor 
Black Hawk! Some eighteen years had passed 
away, until finally an excursion from Santa Bar- 
bara to St. Nicholas, headed by Mr. George Nide- 
vah, landed there, and during their stay on the 
island they accidentally fell in with the poor lonely 
creature, so long the sole resident of the island. She 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 249 

was taken to Santa Barbara, where she was treated 
kindly and entertained at the house of Mr. Nidevah ; 
but, like her two companions, unable to endure the 
change, she soon fell sick and died, the last remain- 
ing one of her race. During the first few days of her 
visit in Santa Barbara, all available means were 
made use of to ascertain, if possible, her history and 
connection with the island, for which purpose many 
of the Indians from the neighboring missions were 
invited to an interview, that ended unsatisfactorily, 
inasmuch as her language was entirely unintelli- 
gible to them, as was theirs to her. The same meas- 
ures, with the same result, were taken at Los Angeles 
in regard to her three companions, who, like her, 
had departed unmourned,unhonored, and unknown. 
Requiescat in pace ! 

About this time Santa Barbara was cast down in 
consternation and gloom by the death of its revered 
and esteemed citizen, Don Jos^ de la Guerra y 
Noriega, and sensible of the great calamity befallen 
to its people (the native Californians), the author has 
thought proper to consider the same as one of the 
more important events in the early history of the 
State. The announcement of his death in the 
Santa Barbara Gazette of February 18, 1858, was 
made public with the following biographical sketch : 
" Don Jos^ Antonio de la Guerra y Noriega was born 
in Novales, in the province of Santander, Spain, 
A.D. 1776. He went to Mexico in 1788, where he 
shortly afterwards entered the house of his uncle, 
Don Pedro Noriega, a wealthy merchant residing in 
the capital, with the intention of becoming a mer- 



250 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

chant, but finding tlie business unsuited to his taste, 
and being ambitious of distinction, and desirous of 
serviug his country and his sovereign, in 1798 he 
obtained the appointment of cadet in the Royal 
Army. In 1800 he was appointed ensign to the 
company then stationed at Monterey, California, 
where he arrived and joined his company the follow- 
ing year. In 1804 he married the daughter of Don 
Raimundo Carillo, Comandante of the Presidio of 
Santa Barbara. In 1806 he was promoted lieu- 
tenant of the company stationed at Santa Barbara. 
In 1810 he was named Hahilitado- General of both 
the Californias, and immediately embarked with 
his family, by way of San Bias, for the City of Mex- 
ico. On arriving at San Bias he was taken pris- 
oner by the curate Mercado, a partisan of Hidalgo 
in the revolution of that time, and was carried to 
Istlan, where he fortunately escaped the cruel 
assassination of his fellow-prisoners. The revolu- 
tion of Hidalgo having deprived him of his office, 
he remained for some time at Tepic, where he 
served as Ayudante Mayor in the army stationed 
there, much to the satisfaction of the government. 
In 1811, he returned with his family to California, 
where, for several years, he held the command of 
the troops stationed at San Diego. In 1817 he was 
promoted captain and commandant of the company 
stationed at Santa Barbara, w^here he repaired with 
his family. In 1819 he again went to Mexico, as 
Hahilitado- General, where the revolution of 1821, 
after a short official service, caused him to return 
again to California. At this time he sent to the 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 251 

republican government his resignation, but it was 
not accepted ; and the President, Guadalupe Victo- 
ria, continued him in office as captain and com- 
mandant of the company at Santa Barbara. In 
1828, he was named Diputado to the General Con- 
gress of Mexico, but did not fill the office in conse- 
quence of his seat having been already taken and 
occupied by the Suplente, Don Gervasio Arguello, 
and he returned to California the following year. 
From that period he lived almost entirely at home 
with his family, devoting himself to their welfare 
and happiness, and taking no active part in the 
political troubles and frequent revolutions of his 
country, except as adviser and mediator, in which 
capacity, from his great reputation as a man of 
unspotted integrity, patriotism, humanity, and 
wealth, he wielded influence in California. It is 
not our purpose, at this time, to speak at length of 
the public services and private worth of the de- 
ceased. At some other time, the life and character 
of this truly good man may be written and pub- 
lished as an example worthy of imitation by all 
persons who would live a long, useful, and pious 
life, and preserve throughout its many vicissitudes 
the respect and esteem of their fellow-citizens, and 
the unbounded veneration and love of numerous 
descendants. For the present, then, we will only 
say, that in his private life he was unsurpassed in 
his ready generosity to his friends, and unostenta- 
tious charity to the poor, irrespective of creed or 
country. In his family he was kind, affectionate, 
and indulgent. As a Christian, none surpassed him 



252 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

in the daily practice of the Christian virtues, in his 
liberal donations in support of the decency of public 
worship, and his unremitting attendance and devo- 
tion at the altar of God. It pleased Providence to 
bless him with a ripe and peaceful old age, with the 
comforts and elegancies of fortune, and the filial vene- 
ration of his neighbors. As the inevitable hour 
approached, it found him supported by the reflec- 
tion of a well-spent life, and surrounded by upwards 
of a hundred descendants, all respectful and loving, 
and vying with each other in attention and tender 
solicitude to lengthen and smooth his path to the 
grave. The surest evidence of the goodness of a 
man in this life is the regret of his neighbors at his 
death. And we can truly say that since the discov- 
ery and settlement of California no man's death has 
been more regretted, and no grave more moistened 
with tiie tears of devoted friends than that of Don 
Jos^ Antonio de la Guerra y Noriega." 

In postscript to the above, the author would say 
that the deceased was buried in the vault beneath 
the old Mission Church, and with all the military 
honors available at the time. The funeral cortege 
was longer than ever before witnessed in Santa 
Barbara on a like occasion, for men, women, and 
children of all classes came forth to give homage 
and respect to the memory of one who, while 
living, was their benefactor and friend. The 
large landed estates he died possessed of were 
divided equally among his sons, which estate, projD- 
erly cared for up to the present time, would have 
made each one a millionaire ; yet, strange to say, of 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 253 

the hundreds of thousands of acres bequeathed to 
them, not one acre now remains in the family. 

This is a sad picture, though true to the life, and 
the same lamentable story may be told o'er and o'er 
of nearly all of the larger estates of the old Califor- 
nians, that disappeared and were gobbled up by the 
sycophants that hovered about them. Such was the 
respect and veneration the lower classes had for Don 
Josh's piety, that during the period in which they 
looked for earthquakes, which was in the fall of the 
year, they encamped around his residence, under 
the full conviction that they were perfectly safe from 
harm by tliese disagreeable visitants. Yet with all 
his good qualities, his eccentricities were rare, and 
his almost universal distrust in the faithfulness of 
his menials, who were employed around the prem- 
ises, was apparent on many an occasion. It was his 
custom to have the Rosary said after the daily 
siesta, when all the family was enjoined to make its 
appearance in the sitting-room, to take part in the 
devotions. The author was present one afternoon, 
when in front of the house some of the Indians 
were busily employed in various ways, where the 
work of cutting up soap into small cakes was going 
on preparatory to placing it away in store, and also 
where upon the ground, spread upon a sail, was a 
quantity of wheat that had been washed, for the 
purpose of grinding it into flour, with a few little 
urchins around to keep off intruders. The old gen- 
tleman, in order to have an eye to what was going 
on, placed himself in the doorway leading into the 
corridor, and then commenced leading off the 



254 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

prayer, while the different members of the family, 
seated on the floor, gave the responses. The old 
gentleman, whilst apparently most devout in what 
he was repeating, all at once called out to the In- 
dians who were cutting up the soap, " Stop there ! 
What are you about ? Why do you cut it in such 
large pieces ? " and after giving them a severe rep- 
rimand, he resumed his prayer. It was not long, 
however, before the author was startled again by 
his crying out angrily, "Hi, there! Drive away 
those rascally chickens from the wheat, and don't 
let me have to speak to you again," and then, with 
a solemn countenance, he continued the service 
without any further interruption. 

The early Californians, having lived a life of indo- 
lence, without any aspiration for wealth beyond the 
immediate requirements of the day, naturally fell 
behind their more energetic successors, and became 
impoverished and gradually dispossessed of their 
fortunes, as they idly stood by, lookers-on upon the 
bustle and enterprise of the new world before them, 
with its go-aheadativeness, and push-on, keep- 
moving celebrity. 

Thus time passed by as the march of improve- 
ment rolled on with success throughout almost 
every portion of the State. The steamers arrived 
as usual at San Francisco, with their thousands of 
new-comers for gold, and sailing vessels reached the 
port day after day with abundant supplies of mer- 
chandise, whilst the introduction of produce and 
gold from the interior was gratifying indeed. The 
city water front was extended out, with new streets 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 255 

and costly wharves ; structures of stores and ware- 
houses, magnificent hotels, theatres, churches, and 
other public buildings of the first order sprang up 
in every direction ; also street railroads to all parts 
of the city, extending so far as the magnificent 
Golden Gate Park, and even across the entire penin- 
sula to the ocean front. The same advancement 
and progress is apparent in all the mining districts 
of the north, and throughout all the towns and vil- 
lages which have sprung up in every direction, 
with their orchards, and vineyards, and grain fields, 
that combine to give wealth and success ; but in the 
south, however, the march is not so manifest, for 
the reason that the change is scarcely perceptible, 
excepting in the surroundings of Los Angeles, par- 
ticularly in the San Gabriel Valley, which has been 
filled up with beautifully laid out orchards and 
vineyards on all sides. 

At this period of affairs in California, the author 
was suddenly called to New York on private 
business, w^here he arrived during the daily violent 
discussions at Washington, which threatened an 
open rupture between the North and South. Soon 
after, New York was thrown into a state of excite- 
ment by the news of a quasi declaration of war on 
the part of the South against the North, in a rebel- 
lious attack upon Fort Sumter. A requisition for 
troops w^as immediately made on the different 
States, and they were soon on their march to the 
Capital. The author witnessed the prompt despatch 
of the Massachusetts regiment, under General But- 
ler, and the subsequent march of the Seventh New 



256 LIFE IX CALIFORNIA. 

York regiment, that, in its progress down Broad- 
way, presented one of the grandest spectacles ever 
Avitnessed in the city. It was publicly known the 
day they were to depart on their route to Washing- 
ton, and consequently, on the morning of that day, 
Broadway was thronged with one entire mass of 
people, men, women, and children ; and on both 
sides of the street every w^indow was occupied by 
ladies, who, with the waving of their handkerchiefs, 
signified the interest they felt in the occasion. 
From the street it was one continued shout, one 
continued hurrah, so deafening as to entirely 
drown the sound of the unusually large band 
of music which led the regiment. He also wit- 
nessed the return of the regiment from Wash- 
ington soon after, having fulfilled the duty for 
w^hich it was required, that is, the protection of 
the Capital. They started from New York 1200 
strong, and returned with their numbers increased 
to 1400. On their arrival at the ferr}^, on the 
North River side, they were met by a body of 500 
retired veterans of the regiment, who had turned 
out to escort them home to their military quarters. 
The author now started for California, where he 
arrived, in San Francisco, on the 14th day of July, 
1861. Through the wise jDrecaution of the govern- 
ment by the removal of the general in command, 
and the substitution of one more worthy of confi- 
dence. General Sumner, the State was secured to 
the Union. Troops had been sent from San Fran- 
cisco and neighboring points to the number of 3000, 
under command of Brigadier-General Carleton, in- 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 257 

eluding a company from Santa Barbara of young 
native Californians, under the command of Don 
Antonio Maria de la Guerra. They made their 
rendezvous at Los Angeles, and marched from there 
to the Rio Grande, where they remained until dis- 
banded. 

This warlike excitement was followed by one of 
nature's occasional visits in the shape of an earth- 
quake, which, being of unusual violence, the author 
is induced to describe as he experienced it. It was 
one of those beautiful autumnal mornings, when all 
was quiet and serene around, that, as he lay slum- 
bering in his apartment, alone in the building, his 
two companions having early departed, one on a 
yachting excursion, and the other for a ride in the 
country, he was disturbed by a dream, which was 
that he was about being buried alive. He was 
aware that others around him in the cemetery were 
also being buried alive, and while in wonderment 
and fear, he awoke, and immediately said to him- 
self, " What can this mean ? Something is going 
to happen, I'm sure," and at that moment he felt a 
trembling of the bed, which continued to increase. 
He jumped to the floor, and having reached the 
passage-way between the fireplace and bed, he 
was stopped by the noise of the bricks falling down 
the chimney, and articles in the other apartments 
being thrown to the floor. He stood with his hands 
upheld, and ejaculated, " God have mercy on me!" 
The suspense was truly awful, until at length the 
vibrations ceased, when his first impulse was to 
rush to the window, and look up the street, expect- 



258 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

ing to see some of the larger buildings thrown to 
the ground ; but, much to his surprise, they were 
all safe, but the street was filled with people 
who had rushed out of their stores, apparently 
as frightened as he. While preparing his toilet, 
he heard, with joy, footsteps approaching, and 
soon beheld in the door-way before him the familiar 
form of his friend, H. F. Teschemacher, formerly the 
popular Mayor of this city, who had come to learn 
how he had weathered the storm, and who, at a 
glance, saw how great must have been its violence to 
have caused such a disarrangement in everything 
around ; where things that were small were thrown 
to the floor, and things that were large were 
moved out of place. His friend proposed their 
going to the club to breakfast and there discuss, 
over a cup of coffee, their plan for a stroll 
round the neighborhood, to witness the damage 
sustained. In passing through the billiard-room, 
on their way out, they were arrested by a second 
shock, which brought them to a stand-still, and 
they remained looking at one another until the 
vibrations ceased, when they made hastily for the 
street. They proceeded at once through the several 
streets, the first, Kearny, where the damage was 
but slight, if any; Montgomery, the same. In Cali- 
fornia street the damage was greater; several build- 
ings were thrown down and many injured. Pass- 
ing through Sansome street, but few houses were 
harmed in the least, and as a general thing only 
buildings on low ground or new-made land were 
injured at all. For a month slight vibrations were 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 259 

felt, from day to day, until at last they ceased alto- 
gether. 

Up to this time, south of San Francisco, but very 
few, if any, of the large rancho estates, had been 
disposed of at legitimate sale ; in fact, many of the 
choicest, at four bits an acre, had been entirely dis- 
regarded. At length Don Abel Stearns, of Los 
Angeles County, managed to get rid of a few of 
them, comprising some two hundred thousand acres, 
at the price of one dollar and fifty cents an acre, 
subject to a mortgage of $50,000 thereon. The 
original purchasers were Sam Brannan, E. F. 
Northam, and C. B. Polhemus. The terms were as 
follows: One hundred thousand dollars, in ad- 
vance, including the mortgage, which the pur- 
chasers were to assume ; also it was agreed, for the 
better security of Don Abel, and for the convenience 
in issuing the deeds for lands which might be sold, 
that a trustee might be appointed, in whom they 
mutually had confidence, and accordingly, the 
author, being a particular friend of Mr. Stearns, was 
selected for that purpose. Suffice it to say, sales 
soon commenced, and, out of the monies realized, 
the mortgage was removed, the |50,000 advanced, 
was reimbursed to the purchasers with ten per cent, 
interest thereon, all the contingent expenses, taxes, 
salaries, etc., were paid by the trustee, besides a 
dividend of $100,000, so that in a very short period 
the owners found themselves, after paying the bal- 
ance due Don Abel, in possession of an immense 
estate, valued at a low estimate at more than 
12,000,000. This is one of the manv fortunes that 



260 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

have been made out of the old pioneer settlers and 
native Californians. 

The memorable drought of 1864, with all its 
devastation and destruction, which swept away 
nearly all the fortunes of the lower counties, was 
soon followed by the more agreeable intelligence of 
the completion of the overland telegraph, and sub- 
sequent driving of the last spike in the construction 
of the trans-continental railroad, thus making us 
close neighbors with our Eastern States. What a 
contrast for the author, looking back on the early 
days when he first sought these regions, and it re- 
quired 195 days to get here ; and when he received 
intelligence from home, his letters and newspapers 
were sometimes a year old, particularly when re- 
ceived via the Sandwich Islands. 

Up to this stage of advancement and improve- 
ment in the civilization of California, the most no- 
torious, outrageous, and heartrending event that 
was ever chronicled in the history of the Golden 
State, was the inhuman butchery and massacre of 
the Chinese, at Los Angeles, on October 24, 1871, 
when twenty -five were dragged from their dwelling- 
houses and hanged without any apparent cause.- 
Similar outrages had been perpetrated in the north, 
but none so barbarous in the extreme as the one 
referred to. It can be said with truth that no 
American-born had a hand in it, although they had 
to bear the stigma, as they have had to in most 
of the riotous proceedings that have occurred 
in our country. In San Francisco, November 10, 
1877, the State troops were called into active ser- 



LIFE IX CALIFORNIA. 261 

vice by the orders of the Maj^or, approved by the 
Governor, and placed under the direction of the 
Chief of Police, for the suppression of an unlawful 
and riotous assemblage. The troops continued in 
service for nine days, and were then dismissed, but 
were again called out, by order of the Mayor, Janu- 
ary 16, 1878. These riotous acts were in opposition 
to the landing of the Chinese passengers from the 
regular mail steamers, and though at one time they 
threatened destruction, not only to the Mail Com- 
pany's wharf, but to the steamers also, fortunately 
the prompt action of the authorities put at end to 
tlie whole matter. From this time to the present, 
1890, no particular excitement has taken place 
worthy of remark. Suffice it, that the State, from 
north to south, progressed as usual, and immigra- 
tion came pouring in from every direction. 

The prediction of the author in the closing chap- 
ter of his " Life in California," regarding San Fran- 
cisco, has, he is proud to say, been fully realized, 
and that, still marching on, she is destined from her 
wealth, power, magnificence, and fame, to become 
the wonder of the world. 



REMINISCENCES OF 1829. 



A LITTLE more than sixty years ago, when visits 
here were few and far between, the author and 
his special friend landed for the first time at the 
port of San Diego, where, under Spanish surveillance 
for half a century, no apparent change had been 
made in the surroundings. The same range of hills 
that protected the bay from the cold, bracing winds 
of the north ; the same barren waste, with its lone, 
sandy beach, that withstood all the storms of the 
deep ; and the far-distant Sierras, so famed for their 
charms — all remained undisturbed as of yore. 

With this due reflection, they set off for the town, 
which they reached in good time, and put up at the 
residence of la Sefiora Dominguez, one of the few 
early settlers of the last century, of which none are 
now living. The houses comprising the town were 
but few, consisting of but fifteen or twenty rude 
adobe huts, without any regularity as to location. 
No gardens were visible in any quarter, either for 
vegetables or for flowers, and indeed but one single 
tree was to be seen throughout the whole space, ex- 
tending for leagues around. The town was located 
near the base of a hill, on which stood the Presidio, 
a fortification on the principle of all military posts 
throughout the country, forming a large square, 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 263 

enclosed by high adobe walls, the entrance to which 
was through a large gateway, where stood the 
guard-house. Within the square were located on 
one side accommodations for the officers and their 
families, and on the other the chapel and store- 
houses; and more conspicuously in front of the 
entrance was the residence of the Comandante, which 
overlooked the surroundings, and in this case com- 
manded a view extending far away to the sea-coast. 
Usually the place was enlivened by groups of sol- 
diers in the guard-house, some playing cards, and 
others amusing themselves in singing, accompanied 
with the guitar, they seldom having any other 
occupation to pass away the time. At this period, 
the Governor-General, Jos^ Maria Echeandia, mak- 
ing this his headquarters, the place was naturally 
made more gay from the numerous entertainments 
he frequently gave to his friends in the town, and 
scarcely an evening passed away without dancing, 
which was the universal enjoyment of the Cali- 
fornians. 

Such was San Diego at this period of her ad- 
vancement, with the exception of a few scattered 
Indian huts, oval in shape, framed and covered 
with tule, like those generally met with among the 
Indian villages. Having sufficient time to make a 
visit to the Mission of San Diego, the}^ concluded to 
go there at once, so as to be enabled to leave in the 
morning on their trip towards the north, and so 
they ordered 'their horses for that purpose. Riding 
along, following the course of the river up the val- 
ley, passing on their way two or three small huts, 



264 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

without anything particular to note, they reached 
the Mission, where they met the two Father Mission- 
aries at the door, they having just returned from a 
walk around the premises. The visitors were w^el- 
comed, and alighted to have half an hour's chat 
before dinner — that is, before twelve o'clock, their 
usual hour for that meal; and accordingly sat down 
on one of the rude benches so generally found at all 
these establishments. The author's friend, being an 
old acquaintance of the Fathers, had considerable 
to say to them in relation to their travels, which 
was of great interest to them. At length the 
church bells announced the hour of noon, when 
both the holy friars turned around, and knelt upon 
the bench on which they had been sitting, with faces 
turned to the building, while three or four young 
pages knelt by their side, on the pavement, when 
the elder of the two friars commenced the "An^elus 
Domini,^' in a very devout manner, and led the 
prayer, which was responded to by the brother 
friar and the pages, the bells of the church chiming 
an accompaniment. During the prayer a large fly 
alighted on the wall just in front of the Father, 
who, apparently without any attention to the pray- 
er, was watching the course of the fly and following 
it with the large round head of his cane, as it 
moved about, sometimes up, sometimes down, some- 
times to the right, sometimes to the left, and ready 
to annihilate it, when, at the closing of the prayer, 
and pronouncing the word Amen! Jesus! he brought 
his cane down on the poor fly and crushed it, and 
then turned around to renew the conversation, as 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 265 

though nothing had transpired. This incident was 
amusing to the beholder, but serves to show the 
simplicity of the reverend Father, who was probably 
not aware of having committed any impropriety. 
Dinner was now announced, when they entered 
through the large reception-room into the dining- 
room, where the table was spread, at which they sat 
down, and had an entertainment of the usual guisados, 
their fritos and azados, frijoles, and the universal tor- 
tilla de maiz, and plenty of good native wine, with the 
usual dessert of fruits peculiar to the climate ; after 
which the old friars retired to take their siesta, and 
the author and his friend hurried away on their re- 
turn to the town, where they arrived after half an 
hour's ride. During the afternoon they called 
upon the General to pay their respects, and to 
procure passports for the road north. An early 
supper was provided at the house in order to make 
way for an entertainment which was to come off 
that evening; and the tinkling of guitars and 
the sound of violins revealed to them what they 
were to expect, for soon the neighbors and friends 
came thronging to the house, until the large recep- 
tion-room was crowded, the older persons seated 
around in chairs, and the younger ones on the 
floor. The musicians took their place at the head 
of the room, w^hen dancing soon commenced, and 
the usual number of native dances, such as the 
Jota, El Jarave, El Son, and La Contra Danza, wore 
away the time until after midnight, when. they re- 
tired, which closed the day's amusement. 

The night had passed by, when at morn's early 



266 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

dawn a gentle tap at the door announced the hour 
for departure; so, preparing at once, after partaking 
of chocolate, and bidding adieu to their friends, they 
mounted their horses, and, with their guide, set 
forth on the road to the Mission of San Luis Rey, 
distant some twelve or fifteen leagues. Crossing 
the river, their course was over a smooth but unin- 
teresting road, over hills and dales, with now and 
then a glimpse of the ocean, which brought them 
to the valley of San Diegito, where they dismounted 
for refreshments, and then continued over in- 
numerable hills, until at length, from the top of 
one of them, they beheld, in the midst of an ex- 
tensive valley beneath them, the grand and im- 
posing Mission. Reaching the building, they were 
met at the door-way by the reverend Father, 
Antonio Peyri, and given a hearty welcome. 
Alighting, they passed into the reception-room, 
w^here, after a brief conversation, they were invited 
to partake of chocolate, and then they retired to 
rooms assigned to them to make themselves present- 
able, as they were covered with dust. Having ac- 
complished this, the author's friend excused him- 
self, and started off to have a chat with good old 
Father Antonio, on business of trade, while the 
author concluded to take a stroll around the prem- 
ises. This, the most modern structure of the kind 
in California, was considered the most imposing of 
all the Missions in the territory. The plan and 
system were, of course, like all the Missions, with the 
exception of the guard-house, which in this case 
was a separate building in front of the Mission, ad- 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 267 

joining which was a very decent building, the resi- 
dence of the Mayor-Domo. On the inside of the main 
building it formed a large square, where he found at 
least one or two hundred young Indian girls busily 
employed spinning, each one with her spinning 
wheel, and the different apartments around were oc- 
cupied with the different trades, such as carpenters, 
blacksmiths, shoemakers, tailors, most useful for the 
establishment. There were also weavers, busily at 
work weaving blankets, all apparently contented 
and happy in their vocation. Passing out of the 
square, he strolled towards the garden, where he 
entered and found, much to his surprise, a great 
variety of fruit trees — pears, apples, peaches, plums, 
figs, oranges, and lemons, besides a large vineyard, 
bearing the ch oicest of grapes. Returning to the build- 
ing, he found his friend had been quite successful with 
the old Father, and made quite a sale of merchan- 
dise, and as night approached, some of the outside 
friends came in, and it was proposed that they 
should have a game of cards, when the table was 
prepared, and the old padre sat down with his 
friends and commenced the popular game of "ilfa- 
lilla,^^ or Spanish whist, in which they took great 
interest, and after awhile became somewhat excited ; 
and while in the heat of argument, all at once the 
bell proclaimed the hour for evening prayer, when 
the dispute ceased, and they all joined in the devo- 
tion. Concluding the prayer, the old Father turned 
round and continued the dispute as though no in- 
terruption had occurred. The game ending, they 
were called to the supper table, where they pro- 



268 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

ceeded, and after a sumptuous repast, they retired 
for the night. Eising in the morning early, they 
found their horses ready-saddled for the journey, 
having been ordered by the good old Father, who 
wished them to be ready, in the event that they de- 
sired to make an early start, but they preferred pay- 
ing him their regards prior to leaving, and so con- 
cluded to wait until he had come from the church, 
where he was saying mass. Very shortly, they saw 
him approaching, when he greeted them cordially, 
and hoped they had passed a good night, and in- 
vited them to take chocolate before starting ; and 
they accordingly went in, and soon after they took 
leave, bidding him "adios/^' 

So, mounting their steeds, they were soon under 
way, and racing along they descended into the large 
valley, crossed a small stream of water to the other 
side, and then ascended the highland, from which 
they had a view of the sea; and they rode along for 
at least half a dozen miles, until they came to a build- 
ing called " Las Flores," one of the outposts of San 
Luis Rey. A little further on they had a more ex- 
pansive view of the ocean, and the far-distant islands 
of San Clemente and Santa Catalina appeared like 
huge black clouds on the horizon. At length they 
reached a descent which led to the sea beach below, 
where, to their delight, they found quite an open- 
ing, extending inland between the hills towards the 
mountains, bountifully supplied with trees, and in 
the centre a stream of pure spring water came run- 
ning down to the sea. It was a pleasing spot to 
look at, and a number of cattle were lying about 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 269 

enjoying the shady places to be found beneath the 
trees ; they were soon driven away, however, by the 
shouts of the travellers, when a spot was selected 
near the stream, where they might partake of lunch 
beneath the noble trees. These were the first trees 
seen since their departure from San Diego, with the 
exception of the fruit trees which they saw in the 
gardens of the mission. Cattle, however, had been 
seen on the way all over the hills and plains. The 
guide was directed to prepare the little repast, which 
he soon brought, wrapped up in a nice white nap- 
kin, which, opening, was spread out on the grass 
and exposed to view the following : One boiled 
chicken, one smoked beef tongue, half a dozen hard- 
boiled eggs, a loaf of bread, a small cheese, a bottle 
of wine, and a little paper of salt and pepper. This 
comprised the preparation which the good old 
Father had made for their comfort, but this was no 
more than he usually did for all strangers who, 
like them, partook of his hospitality. Having fin-, 
ished their sumptuous entertainment, they lighted 
their cigars and turned over what remained of the 
refreshments to the guide, and when he had fin- 
ished, they mounted their horses and set off again 
to complete their journey for the day, now taking 
the smooth sand beach, which extended seven or eight 
miles, a smooth, hard beach, with not a rock to be 
seen, over which they rapidly galloped, until finally 
they reached the point where they struck off" inland 
again, and after a short ride over two or three hills, 
at length from the top of the last one they saw be- 
fore them the lonely, dilapidated Mission of San 



270 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

Juan Capistrano, once the grandest structure of the 
kind in California. 

They soon reached the entrance to the building, 
and were escorted to rooms appropriated for all 
strangers. The two reverend Fathers, who con- 
trolled the interests of the establishment, were 
rather advanced in years, and as a general thing 
kept themselves quietly within their own apartments, 
seldom appearing except at the hour for meals, so 
that the travellers were indebted to the courtesy of 
the Mayor-Domo for the reception given them. It 
being yet early in the afternoon, they had time to 
walk around a little, though there was not a great 
deal to expatiate upon. There was the old stone 
church, which, from its appearance, must have been 
originally the finest structure of the kind in Cali- 
fornia, before it was destroyed by an earthquake, as 
already referred to in the first part of this book. 
The whole appearance of the institution still 
shows that it must have been more perfect 
than that of any other of its kind. Like 
all the missions, it had its gardens and out- 
houses for the Indians, though but few of the na- 
tives were seen about the premises. The day closed 
in, when they returned to their rooms, to wear away 
an hour or so until supper time. At length the 
chimes of the church bells proclaimed the hour, and 
they hurried into the supper room, where they 
found the old Fathers, who received them very cor- 
dially indeed, and, although aged in appearance, 
made themselves as agreeable as one could desire. 
They appeared to be very conversant in worldly 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 271 

matters, and were very much interested in every- 
thing appertaining to European affairs. Whilst 
conversing they smoked their cigarritos, and kept up 
the conversation for at least an hour after the sup- 
per was over, when they retired to their sleeping- 
apartments, and took leave of the travellers, who 
were to start early in the morning and who retired 
to their apartments also. Arrangements, however, 
had been made for means of conveyance to the next 
mission, and, as contemplated, the next morning 
they started with fresh horses and their new guides 
for the Mission of San Gabriel, passing over innu- 
merable hills, until at length they reached a wide, 
open country, as far as the eye could reach, covered 
o'er with cattle grazing in every direction. On the 
right were seen the grand Sierras, with their lofty 
peaks stretching far to the south, and on the left, 
faintly, the dim outlines of the sea-coast, without 
anything to attract attention, until at length they 
reached the Rancho de Santa Ana, otherwise called 
the Yorba Ranchos, the property of three brothers, 
Tomas, Teodosio, and Bernardo, the first rancho 
met with up to this time, all the lands heretofore 
passed over being subject to the jurisdiction of the 
Missions. It was at the home of Don Tomas that 
they alighted, when they were received by the 
frank, open-hearted proprietor, and invited to par- 
take of his hospitality. After a short interview, 
they bade him adieu, and hastened onward with a 
view of reaching San Gabriel sufficiently early to 
enable them to accomplish their journey to the 
Pueblo de Los Angeles that evening. So, after a 



272 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

tedious ride, they reached the mission as desired, 
when the good, okl, generous friar received them 
with a most cordial welcome. As their time was 
limited, they had but little to spare for conversa- 
tion, so the}^ followed the Father to his private 
apartment, where he ordered immediately refresh- 
ments, after partaking of which the author left his 
friend to have a little business conversation, while 
he took a stroll about the Mission grounds. This 
Mission was located in one of the richest valleys 
within the territory of California, extending for an 
immense distance away towards the foothills of the 
Sierras, including the rich possessions of San Ber- 
nardino, with their hundreds of thousands of cattle. 
The neighboring attractions were many, particu- 
larly the fruit gardens, vineyards, and the neat 
arrangements of the habitations of the natives, 
whose occupants, by hundreds, well-clad, were seen 
passing to and fro, apparently as happy as they 
could wish to be. Passing into the interior of the 
building, the author saw immense piles of bullocks' 
hides, which led him to believe that his friend 
would be successful in his visit. Returning, he 
found his friend anxiously awaiting him, that they 
might proceed on their journey to Los Angeles. 
Speaking of the rich character of the valley of San 
Gabriel, the author would say that years subse- 
quently the good old Father urged him to petition 
the government for the possession of the Santa Anita 
Rancho, located in the very heart of this valley, 
which he could easily have obtained gratis, had he 
deemed it expedient to do so, as it only required 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 273 

the consent of the presiding missionary, with that 
of the territorial governor, to have obtained it. The 
author, having no idea of remaining in the country, 
had no desire for it. The same property now would 
be worth millions of dollars to him. 

In accordance with the wishes of his friend, they 
took their leave, and proceeded at once to Los An- 
geles, which, after a pleasant ride, they soon reached, 
and put up at the house of Don Manuel Domin- 
guez, brother-in-law of the author's friend. The 
town of Los Angeles consisted, at this time, of about 
twenty or thirty houses, scattered about without 
any regularity, or any particular attraction, ex- 
cepting the number of vineyards located along the 
low land on the borders of the Los Angeles River. 
There were but two foreigners in the town at this 
time, natives of New England, namely, George Rice 
and John Temple, who were engaged in merchan- 
dising in a small way, under the firm name of Rice 
& Temple. AVith this brief relation regarding the 
tow^n, the author and his friend were anxious to re- 
sume their journey, but it being too late in the day, 
they concluded to await the early dawn, and ar- 
rangements . were made accordingly as to horses, 
etc., wdien they retired for the night. Morning 
came, and they eagerly started off to reach, if pos- 
sible, their destination, which was Santa Barbara, 
distant over a hundred miles. After crossing over 
the neighboring hills, they came to a level road for 
quite a distance, which brought them to a narrow 
entrance into the Coast Range of hills, when they 
passed through a narrow defile, and soon opened 



274 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

into the grand valley of the Mission of San Fer- 
nando. The road now was over a smooth and level 
surface, until they reached the Mission, where the}^ 
alighted and awaited the appearance of the reverend 
Father, who was engaged in morning church ser- 
vice. After a while he made his appearance, invited 
them to his private apartment, and ordered choco- 
late immediately. In the meantime the author's 
friend had an opportunity to talk business with the 
old gentleman, while he himself passed out to the 
front of the Mission to look around. A stately garden 
was in front, with many choice fruit-trees and vine- 
yards. On the right was quite a little city of 
buildings for the native Indians. Unlike the other 
Missions, the church here was in the rear of the 
building. He saw but few of the Indian popula- 
tion, as most of them had retired to their houses, 
and were not engaged in work about the Mission. 
Chocolate, at length, was ready, and he was called 
in to partake of it. After concluding their refresh- 
ment, arrangements having been made already for 
exchange of horses and a guide, they took leave of 
the good old friar, and started on their way to the 
Mission of San Buenaventura; galloping over an 
extensive plain for miles until they reached the foot 
of a range of mountains that enclosed the valley of 
San Fernando. Ascending this steep and rocky 
pass across the mountain, they descended on the 
other side, and entered upon another similar vale, 
called the Rancho de Simi, where the road was 
level for miles. Both valleys, that of San Fernando 
and this one, abounded with grazing cattle. Pass- 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 275 

ing onward at a rapid rate, they came to a range of 
hills, over which they passed, and a little before 
noon they reached the Mission of San Buenaven- 
tura. Padre Uria, recognizing the friend, was 
pleased to meet them, and cordially invited them to 
his private quarters, where they sat down to have 
a chat, when they made known their desire that 
he would provide them with means to continue 
their journey to Santa Barbara, as they were anxious 
to reach there that evening. He pretended that it 
would be impossible, that the Mayor-Domo was away, 
and that it would not be easy to procure horses un- 
til the next day. They hardly believed, however, 
what he said, and concluded it was a mere joke, as 
the}" observed a smile on his countenance as he 
spoke. The hour for dinner was announced, and 
they passed into the dining-room, where, at the 
table, the necessity of their going on to Santa Bar- 
bara that afternoon was discussed, and the old gen- 
tleman, with a twinkle in his eye, thought it would 
be as well for them to go on in the morning and 
pass the afternoon with him. Having finished the 
repast, they arose, and the old gentleman wishing 
them a "buena siesta," observed, as he left them, that 
they would find their rooms ready for them, as if 
they were to meet again later in the afternoon. 
Reaching the outside of the building, much to their 
surprise, they found there fresh horses, saddled, and 
a new guide, ready for a start. All they had to do 
was to mount and set off, which they did at once, 
leaving the mission in the rear, and rode on, soon 
reaching the sea-beach, where, fortunately, the tide 



27C) LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

was low. They rode along for about a league, when 
they came to a place called El Rincon, where they 
left the beach, and passed over a number of rude 
hills, without meeting anything worthy of notice — 
not a house or even a traveller, such was the lonely 
character of the road — until within a short distance 
of the place to which they were going, and then 
they came to the spot called La Carpinteria, named 
thus from the multitude of ^'carpinteivs," or wood- 
peckers, to be found there. Here were a few houses, 
of little consequence, with their gardens and corn- 
fields. Soon after, ascending a hill, they caught 
sight of the long-wished-for Presidio of Santa Bar- 
bara, with the stately Mission prominent in the 
background. On reaching the town, they proceeded 
directly to the house of Mr. Daniel Hill, a native 
of Massachusetts, who had been several years in the 
country and had married here. He was rejoiced to 
see them, and gave orders to have their horses 
cared for. It being so nearly dark, they had supper 
provided, and soon after, fatigued by their ride, 
they retired for the night. The next day being 
Sunday, they concluded to wait until the following 
morning ere continuing their journey. As they 
arose the chapel bells in the Presidio indicated the 
hour for mass, and the surrounding thoroughfares 
were enlivened with the population proceeding to 
the church service. 

The Presidio, with its chapel and surrounding- 
buildings, had been kept in pretty good condition. 
AVithin the square was the residence of the military 
comandante and other officers with their families, 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 277 

where a company of artillery was stationed, which 
added much to the interest of the scene around. The 
town consisted of about fifty dwelling-houses, in the 
midst of which was one, the most prominent of 
all in point of structure and general appearance, 
called La Casa Grande. This was the residence of 
Don Jose Antonio de la Guerra, of whom mention 
has been made, and who was then absent from Cali- 
fornia as Diputado to the Mexican Congress. The 
balance of the houses were rude in structure, and 
all pretty much of the same order as to appearance 
and comfort. In the afternoon they rode up to the 
Mission, and reached there just as the presiding mis- 
sionary had arisen from his siesta and made his 
appearance in the corridor of the building. He 
saw them approaching, and awaited their arrival at 
the entrance, when he gave them a cordial recep- 
tion, such as they had received at every institution 
of the kind. By invitation, they entered his apart- 
ment, and during the conversation chocolate was 
brought in, giving them afterw^ards an opportunity 
to walk about the premises, which were in keeping 
with the other Missions they had visited. They 
found some very fine paintings, not only in the 
missionary's apartments, but in the church. After 
amusing themselves until near sundown, they re- 
turned to the tow^n, and during the evening made 
several visits to the houses of the American resi- 
dents, among them William G. Dana and Kobert 
Elwell, of Massachusetts. Both were married, and 
had been residents of the place for several years. 
Having passed an agreeable evening, they returned 



278 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

in time to take supper, and then retired for the 
night. In the morning, as contemplated, they made 
ready to start for the north. Whilst at breakfast, a 
bullock was brought up in front of the house and 
slaughtered in the usual way, and the neighbors 
around, as was customary on such occasions, made 
their appearance, and each took what he wanted. 
This was the universal custom, that when anyone 
killed a bullock, his neighbors came and helped 
themselves, which was always reciprocated in like 
manner throughout the town. 

Another custom prevailed to excess, known as the 
*' Dice mi nana ? " nuisance, a system of shrewd beg- 
ging, carried on by means of trained i urchins for 
that purpose, who were almost daily seen in the by- 
ways of the town asking charity for their mother, 
sometimes for one thing, and sometimes for another. 
Now and then she would have a craving desire for 
a nice, refreshing salad, and having obtained, in 
advance, some lettuce from a neighboring garden, 
she sent out her little urchins to procure the ingredi- 
ents that were wanting. At one house they asked 
for oil, at another for vinegar, and lastly, at an- 
other, for a little pepper and salt, stating at each 
place that it was intended for a remedy. In this 
way her appetite was appeased, whilst the donors, 
who had contributed on the occasion, thought what 
they had done was for a more charitable purpose. 

Breakfast concluded, the author and his friend 
bade a parting adieu to the gay little town and the 
Presidio, with their interesting surroundings, and 
were soon on their way, galloping over hill after hill, 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 279 

until at length they reached an open space near the 
seaside, from whence they derived a distant view of 
the islands Santa Cruz, Santa Rosa, and San Miguel, 
that form the so-called channel of Santa Barbara, 
from which point also they beheld before them the 
long range of table land, extending as far as the eye 
could reach, o'er which they rode with increased 
speed, until they came to the Rancho del Refugio, a 
pretty little valley, extending from the seashore in- 
land toward the foothills of the mountain range, 
o'er which the road passed. This famous spot was 
once the residence of the Ortega family, one of the 
most distinguished in its day, whose numerous 
descendants, like a distinct race of their own, are 
scattered throughout the land, and easily recognized 
under any circumstances, rich or poor, from their 
courteous manner and pleasing address. Without any 
detention here, they pushed forward, ascending the 
rude mountain, leaping over rocks and ridges, until 
they reached the summit, where they tarried a few 
moments to permit their horses to breathe, when 
they descended on the other side, over rocks and 
rude places, to the bottom, where flowed a gentle 
stream, which, fording, they soon reached the Mis- 
sion of Santa Ynez. The good old friar was on 
hand, when, after a cordial welcome, the travellers 
made known their wish to have as little detention 
as possible, to facilitate the plan of their journey, 
in order to reach San Luis Obispo before the decline 
of day ; also that they might have extra horses, 
under the impression that the old friar at La Puris- 
sima might be taking his siesta. Their request was 



280 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

soon complied with, and they started off, riding 
over a smooth road, without anything important to 
notice, until they reached the Mission, and, as they 
anticipated, the good old Father Victoria had re- 
tired to his quarters ; so, without disturbing him, 
they continued on their way, soon reaching an 
abrupt hillock, o'er which they slowly passed, and 
opened upon an extensive plain, reaching for 
leagues away towards the hills of San Luis, over 
which they rode rapidly, and passed up through 
the woody highlands, and just before sundown they 
reached the Mission of San Luis Obispo. The old 
padre, Father Luis, was rejoiced to see them, and 
gave them a hearty welcome. Passing the night 
there, the next morning early they proceeded on 
their journey. 

Having already described the missionary institu- 
tions from here northwards, suffice it to say they 
reached the Mission of San Miguel in time to dine 
with the good old Father Juan Cabot, and then 
proceeded onward to the Mission of San Antonio, 
where they passed the night, enjoying the hospital- 
ity of Father Pedro Cabot, and on the fourth day from 
Santa Barbara, continuing their journey, stopping 
for a moment at La Soledad to salute Padre Seria, 
President of the Mission, they hurried on and reached 
the Presidio of Monterey early in the afternoon, where 
they put up at the house of Don Juan Cooper. 

Monterey, though the capital, was of less im- 
portance than any of the other ports, excepting 
when occupied as the seat of government. The 
presidio, though held as a military command, they 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 281 

found in a partially dilapidated condition, with 
hardly a soldier to be met with, the General having 
taken with him to San Diego all the men, with the 
exception of a few to protect the grounds. The fort 
on the hill was left entirely uncared for. The 
buildings outside the presidio, forming the town, 
were but few, perhaps not more than fifteen or 
twent3^ The principal charm of Monterey con- 
sisted in its beautiful pine-clad hills, which still 
existed without any apparent change, wood not 
being much needed, for scarce two houses in the 
town had fire-places ; consequently the consumption 
of wood was very small, which accounted for their 
still attractive appearance. Their method of heat- 
ing the houses was by placing coals in a roof- 
tile, which was placed in the centre of the room ; 
this method they found common throughout the 
country. 

Having nothing to detain them, they started the 
next day for San Francisco, and after a few hours' 
ride, the}'^ reached the Mission of San Juan Bau- 
tista, where there was nothing particularly attract- 
ive to mention. The old Father treated them with 
the same politeness they had met with from time to 
time, and gave orders to supply them with fresh 
horses. After a short conversation, they started off, 
riding over a few hills, until they came to a fine, 
level road, which extended all the way to El Pueblo 
de San Jose, where they arrived after a few hours' 
ride, and, passing up through the centre, they soon 
came to the beautiful Alameda, at the end of which 
appeared the attractive Mission of Santa Clara. It 



282 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

being late in the day when they arrived, they con- 
cluded to remain until the next morning, and then 
proceed to San Francisco. The generous old friar 
invited them to take a walk in the garden, where 
they found an abundance of fruit of various kinds. 
Returning to the Mission, he went to his apart- 
ments, and the travellers retired to theirs, to await 
the hour for supper, of which they were notified by 
the chimes of the church-bells at eight o'clock, and 
hurried to meet the good old Father. After a boun- 
tiful supper, they retired for the night, and the 
next morning started for San Francisco. The 
road was level, o'er which they rapidly advanced, 
without meeting a single individual or habitation 
of any kind until they reached the Rancho de las 
Pulgas, where they found a small adobe building, 
with no windows, and in place of the ordinary 
wooden door a dried bullock's hide was substi- 
tuted, which was the case, as a general thing, in 
nearly all the ranchos on the coast, as there was no 
fear of intrusion excepting from the bears that now 
and then prowled about, and were easily frightened 
away when they ventured too near. The bullock's 
hide was used also almost universally in lieu of the 
old-fashioned bed-sacking, being nailed to the bed- 
stead frame, and served every purpose for which it 
was intended, and was very comfortable to sleep 
upon. There being no family here, they con- 
tinued their course, and, after a ride of three or 
four leagues, they reached the Rancho de San 
Mateo, an outpost or sheep-range of the Mission 
Dolores, at this time unoccupied. Here they tar- 



LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 283 

ried a while, to give their horses a chance to 
breathe, and then resumed their journey over a 
still smooth road, without even a tree to be seen 
during the whole ride, until they reached the gar- 
den of the Mission. When they rode up to the 
door they found there Father Estenega, who cried 
out, as they dismounted their horses, "Quanto hay 
de bueno por aquif" as he seized the author's friend 
by the hand, he being an old acquaintance, when 
they were ushered into the private apartment of 
the Father, to take chocolate, of course, as was the 
usual reception at these hospitable institutions. In 
the course of conversation, they learned that a ship 
had arrived a da}^ or two previous, and lay at 
anchor in Yerba Buena, the anchorage place at 
this period, and presuming it to be the vessel from 
which they had disembarked at San Diego, that had 
been ordered by the author's friend to proceed to this 
place, they hurriedly departed to satisfy themselves 
that such was the case. Much to their satisfaction, 
such was the fact ; and, on their reaching the beach, 
they made signals for a boat, which were immediately 
answered; and, on its arrival at the landing, they 
took leave of their guide, who had accompanied 
them, and embarked for the ship, which they 
gladly reached, and were soon comfortably pro- 
vided for by the commander. At this time there 
were no houses of any kind, either between here 
and the Mission, or between here and the Presidio, 
excepting a rude little cottage over the hills near 
Washerwoman's Bay, the property of the widow 
Briones. 



284 LIFE IN CALIFORNIA. 

At the Presidio, the place was ahnost entirely 
abandoned, as was the case at the Presidio at Mon- 
terey, and at the fort also, there being not over half 
a dozen soldiers there, with the comandante. It was no 
uncommon occurrence for a vessel to pass up through 
the Golden Gate at the hour of siesta in the after- 
noon, and reach her place of anchorage at Yerba 
Buena, where she lay for two or three days, before it 
came to the knowledge of the post at the Presidio. 

Such was the state of affairs in California at this 
early period. 



LIERfiRY OF CONGRESS 



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